Well yes, you read that right. Priests and friars eat each other in Liguria. And in some cases, even i cardinals. In fact, they are called rolls typical of the Ligurian winter, although in reality, given the long preparation, they are found less and less both around and in homes. And it is appropriate to say: what a pity!
What are the priests
Like all traditional recipes, also in this case the preparation of the priests changes from one country to another, but also from one house to another in the same neighborhood. Basically these are rolls that are made mainly in winter, with the arrival of the first cold, because winter is its main ingredient, that is, cabbage, strictly curly. Then there are various theories about the filling. Almost everyone agrees on boiled potatoes, eggs, stale bread soaked in milk and cheese. However, there are those who also add other ingredients such as chard, ham or mortadella, but only if available. Recall that Ligurian cuisine is a poor and reclaimed cuisine, which uses everything it can and is there, both in the cultivated lands and in the recipes prepared. But what is never missing is there marjoram, the quintessence of flavors in Liguria. And even on this, there are no opposites. Finally, the rolls, once closed with the string, as tradition dictates, they are cooked for a long time in tomato sauce. See, these are what are called priests, previ, or friars, even if the reason for this name is not yet known: some argue that it is due to the shape of the rolls, which recalls that of clerical hats; others because the priests apparently liked them a lot. There is also another similar dish, which they prepare only at the restaurant (and laboratory in Stroscia) La Colombiera in Pietrabruna: it is cardinal, a stuffed cabbage with the same ingredients as the priests; or, at least, so did the owner Barbara's grandmother. There are also those who make priests in broth, like at the Locanda del Cavaliere in San Bartolomeo del Mare. But we have decided to rely on a classic version, like that of Agnes Nagy, for all Needles.
Who is Aghi
Aghi is a special woman, one of those who meet few in life. Of Hungarian origin, she has lived for years in San Bartolomeo with her partner Flavio Roggerone and together they dedicate body and soul to life in the countryside: they grow artichokes, courgettes, tomatoes, turnips, broccoli, green beans and many other vegetables which they then sell in the village. Many knock on their door, because they are certain to find only the best of the season, cultivated as it should, as well as courtesy, hospitality and a smile always on the face. In short, rare things. Then Aghi learned to cook all the traditional Ligurian dishes from his mother-in-law Giovanna Rota, Flavio's mother, who passed away a few years ago. It is thanks to her, in fact, that some of the pillars of the family's Ligurian cuisine have not been lost, but rather have found new life. According to Flavio and his brother Stefano, they are exactly "like their mother made them". And they are strong words, you know it is rare. Among these there are also the priests, a dish that also for them tends to do less and less due to the long preparation times. But it is also true that they are of a rare goodness, so it is really worth it. Furthermore, the Roggerones confirm that even their mother Giovanna always prepared them in a different way, depending on what was available. "If there was mortadella or ham, you would put it on, otherwise you wouldn't have it". So no fear in the case of vegetarians you can proceed with an equally satisfying version without meat.
The recipe of the priests of Needles
As anticipated, it is a dish that takes time, so go ahead at least 2-3 hours in advance. The indicated doses are for about 30 rolls, but it depends on the size of the priests and the quantity that each one will eat (usually always more than expected).
Ingredients
1 curly cabbage
2 potatoes
1 bunch of Swiss chard
100 g parmesan
3 eggs
1 clove of garlic
1 can of tomato sauce (preferably homemade)
ham or mortadella (optional)
to taste marjoram
parsley to taste
salt to taste
pepper to taste
to taste bay leaf
Method
1. Simmer the tomato sauce.
2. Boil the potatoes and mash them.
3. Boil the cabbage and separate the innermost leaves (which will go with the other ingredients for the filling) from the outermost ones (which you will need for the rolls), well cleaned of the hardest parts, if any.
4. Boil the beets and chop them.
5. Soak the stale bread in milk.
6. Mix together all the ingredients for the filling, ie potatoes, innermost leaves of the cabbage, beets, bread, beaten eggs, grated Parmesan and, if available, mortadella or chopped ham.
7. Season the filling with salt, pepper, parsley, marjoram, bay leaf and a clove of crushed garlic.
8. Start preparing the rolls, placing a ball of filling in the center of the cabbage leaves (the outer ones); if there are some hard parts, remember to remove them, otherwise it could be difficult to close.
9. Roll up the rolls, folding the leaves on the sides to close them. Then tie them with the string in four, forming small bags.
10. Once all the priests have been prepared, put them to cook for about an hour and a half in the tomato sauce.
If you have any filling left over, Aghi tells us, you can prepare meatballs to be fried in a pan with a little oil. In short, another great classic of reclaimed cuisine!
Finally, you know that in Hungary there is a very similar dish called töltött káposzta? They are always cabbage rolls, stuffed with rice, minced meat, eggs, onion and, of course, paprika, an omnipresent ingredient in Hungarian cuisine. Try to prepare both versions, so you will feel a little like having the pleasure of being at Roggerone's home!
