Tag: doesn39t

fish is like meat, and after four days it doesn't smell – Italian Cuisine

Dry aging of fish is the new frontier. Which can also be tasted at Trattoria Da Lucio, in Rimini. Where they do everything from fish, including offal, they dry it and cook it on the grill

The future of seafood is not fresh fish. Too delicate and difficult to keep, it requires daily work and raises costs. Better to hang it, keep it and make sure that its duration is prolonged; achieving flavors and textures never experienced before. Other than a lively eye, tenacious scales and the scent of the sea. Large fish, properly gutted and stored at the right humidity, last for tens of days, lose the typical "fishy" smell and have a firmer, tender and tasty flesh. «It is normal for us that meat should hang. That it can hang for a long time, even 60, 90 days, is now established. That it can be done with fish still sounds like a heresy ". To say it is Jacopo Ticchi, chef and partner of the Trattoria Da Lucio restaurant in Rimini who, after years of seasons in Romagna, flew to Australia and then spent years at Joia, the starred vegetarian restaurant in Milan. That of the dry aged fish it is now a global movement, with exponents experimenting from Los Angeles to New Zealand, sushi bars that serve it as a delicacy and techniques that have now come down to us. It was thanks to a book called The Whole Fish (translated into Italian by Giunti, The big fish book), written by the Australian Josh Niland, soul of Fish Butchery, the first "fish butcher". You can find it on the shelf of the Trattoria Da Lucio, next to the Noma book.

Trattoria Da Lucio, Rimini

Sea Rimini ask where to eat, the answer is quite unique: Trattoria Da Lucio. But when you hear about them you think of a classic place, of those with checkered tablecloths or, at most, set up with American paper straw. A good thing, in short. Instead, they just changed location (due to Covid) and occupied a hotel restaurant, one of those modern waterfront hotels with glass balconies and arguably contemporary design. In front: a games room, alongside: the bridge illuminated by day with blue and white neon. It is Rimini Rimini, but not what it once was. They are young and look like fish out of water in a room obviously not theirs, elegantina, in which, however, they offer contemporary, genuine and tasty cuisine. And in the end, you also forget the spotlights on the ceiling and the double access to the outside and to the three-star lobby. The black and white photos on the walls and the books are the only decoration that betrays their true nature, together with the menu, evidently taken from the old restaurant: tasting for € 65 and a short but incisive menu to choose from: raw, embers, first courses, side dishes. It is evident that this is not the usual place for spaghetti with clams and mixed fried food, strictly frozen, of the copy & paste menus that are repeated for the Riviera.

Raw, tripe and first courses

Raw, like a plateau classic, and then the dry aged cuts, such as sea bream fillets, croaker, sea bass caught and served with a salt of oil, vinegar and shallot. Grilled seabed mussels, oil, lemon and parsley. Grilled octopus salad comes with mushrooms and trevisana, freshly seared cuttlefish with lard and squacquerone and traditional brodetto, cooked in cast iron next to the fire. Menu item dedicated to fish offal such as brioche with monkfish liver, peaches and onion, Heart of tuna, sweet garlic and tomato, the Tuna tripe, delicious, with brown base and tomato sauce, in which to make scarpetta. Among the first courses, Risotto au gratin with raw mussels and bottarga, very fine Cappelletti stuffed with sea urchins and bottarga, lightly smoked and seasoned with cream, and then the "gross spoja”In different versions, that is a dirty sheet, the remainder of the scraps of dough and filling left over when making cappelletti, cooked in broth and seasoned. Delicious. Local wines with excellent quality / price ratio, a well-selected international menu and cocktails are drunk. Right, because Trattoria da Lucio is the latest addition to a group of Rimini restaurants that is making headlines and includes the cocktail bar with small kitchen, Necessaire Bistrot and the Fermenta wine shop.

To know

Da Lucio is not the host, but Jacopo's child (who is like 26 years old and is a very young father). And the bill turned out to be € 49, including wine.

Browse the gallery

Cocktail pairing: because (often) it doesn't work – Italian Cuisine

A matter of pride, because to create a good match you need a harmony between chef and barman, and often you can even take a step back. At Bonaventura Maschio Pairing Challenge you work to change things, one cocktail at a time

The combination of food and cocktails is still in its infancy, at least in Italy. The restaurants that offer a corner bar are few, the rooms with a kitchen at the height of the mixing still scarce, the places where each dish was accompanied in paper to a specific drink, insistent. Tasting menu with cocktail pairing choices as an alternative to wine, science fiction.
We are back, light years compared to international experiences, but «we are a wine country and the spread and attachment of Italians to wine is difficult to beat. But it is a growing trend and we want to keep up with the times ", explains Anna Maschio, new generation of the famous distillery Bonaventura Maschio of Gaiarine (TV) and company marketing manager. Together with his brother, the master distiller Andrea, they have been engaged for years in a cultural battle: promoting the cocktail pairing culture in Italy. This year they did it with a brand new formula, that is to say gathering together the chefs of the JRE – Italia association and their bartenders and putting them in competition. To win, chef Marcello Trentini of the Magorabin restaurant in Turin and mixologist Carlotta Linzalata.

Bonaventura Maschio Pairing Challenge 2019: won by chef Marcello Trentini and bartender Carlotta Linzalata, from the Magorabin restaurant.

The rules for not making mistakes

"The Bonaventura Maschio Pairing Challenge can be considered a cross-section of the current catering world, in which the collaboration between bartenders and the kitchen is increasing day by day," confirmed jury president Marco Reitano. We are at the beginning of a phenomenon, this is certain, but the concept of pairing remains to be defined. A meal cocktail is a drink that is studied for consumption at the table, for taste, alcohol content, quantity of service. In short, Negroni and Martini will hardly be compatible with a dinner since the cocktail must be combined at the gustatory level with the dish served, not overhanging it, but managing to enhance the dish itself. The bitter note of a tonic, the spiciness of ginger, the power of a whiskey are difficult to manage, while for example a slight sparkling, citrus flavors, acidity and a slight sweetness will be more easily combined. Pairing also remains a conceptual issue. Creating a red thread of ingredients and territories, stories and techniques makes pairing sensible, like the one between cotechino and Lambrusco.


Today it is difficult to see dishes and cocktails created at the table to live together, indeed impossible. We find ourselves more than anything in front of attempts to find the right drink for a dish already made or, vice versa (but much more rarely), to cook something that goes well with a barman creation. This is why the Bonaventura Maschio Pairing Challenge 2019 wanted to raise the level of difficulty: not only making two good recipes in itself and being able to combine them, but enhancing a distinctive element such as grape brandy both on the plate and in the glass. During the competition, the eight couples challenged each other by presenting a combination of a dish and a signature cocktail, both containing a variant of the Prime Uve grape distillate.

A matter of pride

"Chefs and bartenders work on parallel tracks, but to create a good match they have to communicate. And one of the two must take a step back ", Filippo Sisti has very clear ideas, and properly. An avant-garde Bartender, he crossed the frontier of pairing, literally going to cook his own cocktails, both in mixing and in the preparation of the individual ingredients. In his Talea, a local in Milan, the bottles of alcohol behind the counter are a meager ten (vodka, rum, etc.), but there are about a hundred home-made preparations with which the «By experience to make a good pairing should be made work on two symbiotic elements, one liquid and one solid, and not wait for one to fit into the other. But it is difficult, the chefs still tend to want to do their own cooking and it is therefore up to the barman to work accordingly, with humility, "continues Filippo. «To make a good pairing you have to taste the dishes, feel the flavors, the nuances, understand their meaning and only then can you design or choose a cocktail right in the mouth and on the head, which after every sip completes each bite and creates an experience overall. "
While waiting for the avant-garde to become an institution, you can go and have a drink.

The rest of the podium: Second place goes to chef Giorgio Bartolucci and bartender Vincenzo Brindisi of Atelier Restaurant (Domodossola, Verbania), while the third to chef Nikita Sergeev and bartender Leonardo Niccià of the L'Arcade Restaurant (Porto San Giorgio, Fermo ).

Proudly powered by WordPress

By continuing to use the site, you agree to the use of cookies. Click here to read more information about data collection for ads personalisation

The cookie settings on this website are set to "allow cookies" to give you the best browsing experience possible. If you continue to use this website without changing your cookie settings or you click "Accept" below then you are consenting to this.

Read more about data collection for ads personalisation our in our Cookies Policy page