THE pumpkin tortelli they mix sweet and spicy flavors, perfectly combining the ancient art of peasant cooking with that of the Renaissance. According to historical sources, in fact, the first recipe would have been published in 1549 in the work Banquets, food compositions and general apparatus from Cristoforo Messisbugo, composed during her service at the Gonzaga court as a consultant to the Duchess Isabella, Marquise of Mantua.

Decades later, cappellacci and ritortelli di zucchini (as they were called at that time) were represented in treaty Of the carving by Giovanni Battista Rossetti, climber and cook at the Este court.

A centuries-old dispute

Mantua and Ferrara have long fought over the paternity of the dish. But, in the meantime, over time the recipe has been disclosed in other places in the Po Valley, Cremona and Parma, thanks to the migration of chefs and pasta makers who, moving from court to court, contributed to its rapid spread. Today, however, the scepter is attributed to the Mantuan city, as recognized by the president of the Italian Academy of Cuisine in the 90s, Giovanni Nuvoletti Perdomini, who said: "the omnipresent and sublime tortei on Christmas Eve at the not lying table of every authentic Mantuan represent with the peregrine and sweet combination of sweet and savory a precious and rare case of survival of the historic Renaissance cuisine, of which the Mantuan people honor the memory".

Local variants

According to traditional recipe, yellow pumpkin (dry and sweet), spicy mustard and crumbs of Amaretti biscuits characterize the filling of tortelli. But further variations have spread based on the place of origin. In the Cremona area, for example, candied fruit, sultanas, a few mint leaves and mostaccino (typical dry spiced biscuit) are added. In the Brescia area, however, raisins softened in aniseed liqueur are added and orange marmalade is used instead of mustard.

Puff pastry and toppings, different flavors by city

The traditional formula of the pastry includes eggs and flour, but white wine is also often used instead of hot water. And as a condiment? There are those who prefer to sauté them in a pan with butter and sage and others in a narrow tomato sauce, such as tortelli di Piadena from Cremona.

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