The Maracuoccio di Lentiscosa, an ancient legume found only in a restricted area of Cilento. It is a poor, nutritious and delicious local dish
In that cradle of biodiversity which is Cilento, a rare, ancient legume, different from all, which is found only here, could not be missing: the Maracuoccio di LentiscosaSlow Food Presidium since 2016. In fact, in Cilento houses, the maracuoccio has always been there; the ladies of the area remember it well, who for years, especially in the most difficult periods, have eaten in quantity, even for days in a row, as it is extremely nutritious. The most common dish that is made with this legume is the maracucciata, which also gave its name to a restaurant all in his honor in Marina di Camerota. But over time, both its production and consumption has recovered, there to remind us of the power of the hinterland, also and especially on the coast.
What is the maracuoccio
Maracuoccio comes from Tues., which means bitter and Cuoccio, that is pod, therefore bitter pod. Some consider him an ancestor of the cicerchia, very similar to pea, albeit smaller; actually the legume he remembers most is the roveja dei Monti Sibillini, by shape (irregular), color (various tones all on brown) and flavor. What is certain is that the maracuoccio is unique. It is sown only in the area around Lentiscosa, above the wonderful beaches of Marina di Camerota, in the winter between December and March, and is harvested in the summer between June and July, depending on the climate. Do you think it is one of those rare products that does not exceed 5 quintals of production. This is why they worked hard to make it a Slow Food Presidium, which happened in 2016, above all thanks to Gaetano Belluccio, for all Nino, head of the Food Community, to Mimmo Caiazzo, head of the Slow Food Convivium of Camerota and Golfo di Policastro, and to Giuseppe Rivello, aka Jepis, at the time a trustee. Over time, theMaracuoccio Association with Mimmo's daughter (who has returned to work the land, including the maracuoccio), Carmen Caiazzo, and her husband Francesco Esposito, to try to increase in all ways the cultivation of this legume, subject to various problems, not least that of boars. But luckily they are doing a great job and the maracuoccio has spread more and more, in particular the flour obtained from it for the preparation of a dish from the area: the maracucciata, a sort of "Mediterranean polenta".
How the Maracucciata is prepared
The maracucciata is an ancient dish, which for years has fed the poorest families of Camerota, where it was not unusual to eat every day. It is prepared like this: you begin to heat salted water in a large copper pot, the "caurara"; then when it boils slowly add the sifted maracuoccio and wheat flour over low heat. In the past, for necessity, it was also allowed to use flours of other legumes, such as chickpeas, fava beans or cicerchie, indeed it was often done; today, however, it is important to avoid the false maracucciate, or at least 50% must be of maracuoccio flour. Once you are sure that you are starting from the correct basic ingredients, continue to mix the mixture with a long wooden stick, in order to avoid sticking to the pot or lumps. Meanwhile, apart from this, toast bread with oil and onion is browned, as desired also garlic or chilli. Finally, it all comes together and is served hot, better if accompanied by a piece of cheese and a glass of red wine. In recent years there has been a strong recovery of the maracuoccio, so much so that this substantial dish is found in various places, but only between Lentiscosa, Camerota and Marina di Camerota.
Where to find it
The temple of the maracuoccio is the place born in his honor, Maricucciata by Gaetano Belluccio. Here, in fact, you are sure to eat the real maracucciata, prepared precisely with at least 50% maracuoccio. But a few steps away is Davide Mea with his Taverna del Mozzo, where the maracuoccio appears in the breadsticks, in a cuttlefish soup or in the fresella with mozzarella in the mortella and Menaica anchovies, depending on the menu in progress. In the parallel street, however, more towards the square of Marina di Camerota, there are the Cellars of the Marquis, where a little is played on tradition, but it certainly does not blame the authenticity of the dishes (try also the mbuttunate mulignane, that is the stuffed, stuffed aubergines). Finally, a special place: above the Baia degli Infreschi there is theInfreschi Oasis, where you can get there only on foot from the beach or for the more daring directly from the port of Marina di Camerota. In any case, whatever the place of departure, the place of arrival does not change: the atmosphere is that of a true oasis, a place where you can find refreshment and hospitality, eating outdoors among the vegetable garden and olive trees, in a Cilento that, before of being sea, it is always and above all revealed as earth.
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