A typically Venetian dish linked to Istria. Let's see why, its history and how to prepare it in the sea version
Today we are used to thinking that risi e bisi is a typically Venetian dish, in particular from Venice, Vicenza and Verona. And in reality it is, but there is also a story that binds it toIstria, in particular the Slovenian part and the municipality of Strunjan. It is him who tells us chef Tomaž Bevčič of the restaurant Rizi and Bizi, so called precisely because of this ancient bond.
The story of risi e bisi
Whether in Slovenian rizi and bizi or in Venetian rixi and bixi, it is always a dish based on rice and peas (and bacon), halfway between risotto and soup for its soft, wave-like texture. This is why it is pleasant and widespread bothwinter, with the first cold, both in spring, when the bisi, that is the peas, are fresh, in season. Today those used for its preparation come from various parts, some even from the nearby Berici Hills, in the Vicenza area, in particular in the municipalities of Lumignano and Longare. But in the past this was not the case: in the Strunjan salt pans area, many peas were grown, but the best and sweetest ones, the first of the season, were historically sent to the Duke of Venice. “In Istria we have always been used to that, that is, to give away the best. In this sense ours is a poor cuisine, because we have always sold the most exclusive products to be able to live here, as sustenance , continues Tomaž. «And so even with peas, the most beautiful were always given to the Serenissima Republic of Venice, where they prepared just risi e bisi. And in memory of our piece of history, of this dish and of this past bond, I called my restaurant .
The Rizi and Bizi restaurant
Tomaž Bevčič has always worked as a chef, first in Ankaran then in other places in Istria, with great masters such as Evelin Grizon or Marjan Mislej. Ten years ago he decided to open his restaurant in Portoroz, one of the most touristic Slovenian resorts there is, together with Piran, Izola and Koper, also because they are the only cities on the coast in Slovenia. And in fact the sea is never lacking in his dishes, with a continuous search for the best fish, which he takes mainly from Croatia, as well as raw materials in general. "I like to bring out all the flavor that there is from an ingredient, understand how to transform it, but always with respect". Its menu changes about four times a year, but always focuses on fish cuisine, also because it is located right above the sea. For this reason, in its version of rizi and bizi there is no pancetta, as expected in the traditional classic recipe, but there are red prawns: he uses those of Kvarner, in Croatia, a place known precisely for having some of the finest in the Mediterranean, so much so that he puts them raw to make their taste feel to the fullest.
Tomaž Bevčič's recipe
You can also prepare the vegetarian version of this dish, that is, without adding shrimp or bacon. In this case, instead of the fish stock, prepare a vegetable broth as it was once done: immerse every part of the peas in water, including the cleaned pods and boil until you get a rather thick broth to combine, once filtered. , rice and peas for cooking.
Ingredients for 4 people
200 g of pink shrimp tails
200 g Acquerello rice
200 g tender peas
salt to taste
to taste white pepper
to taste dry and full-bodied white wine
to taste fish stock
to taste lemon flavored olive oil
2 limes
Method
Put the rice in a heated rice pan. Turn it until you smell good. Deglaze with the wine and start adding the fish stock. Cook over low heat.
Meanwhile, blend fr of peas with a little comic. Towards the end of cooking the rice, add the peas and pea cream.
When the rice is cooked, taste and season with salt and pepper, then arrange on a deep plate.
On top, put the prawn tartare seasoned with fleur de sel and olive oil flavored with lemon.
Finally grate plenty of lime zest over all the rice.
Accompanied by an Istrian Malvasia, a grape symbol of this area, such as that of SteraS winery who recommended his wife Patrizia Bevčič, room sommelier and companion of a life together, everywhere. Just be on the sea!
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