Neapolitan suffritto, how to prepare and where to eat – Italian Cuisine

Neapolitan suffritto, how to prepare and where to eat


Chimatelo soffritto or strong soup, the meaning does not change. In Naples the marenna (the snack) of the poor is still a typical city dish. That is prepared as (or is, already ready) in gastronomy or on pizza

Neapolitan fried, or strong soup, is an ancient one typical dish of the Campania tradition. The recipe was codified in the eighteenth century, but its origin is probably earlier. It dates back to the time when, among the aristocrats, the offal of noble animals was much appreciated, while those of pork were discarded. Gold for the plebeian women. That's how he was born 'Or suffritt, which was sold at the corners of the streets by the "zendraglie" (those who cooked the giblets), in exchange for some change, served on slices of homemade bread. It was' a marenna (the snack) of the poor. Of those who had a strong stomach or who were struggling a lot, since it is beautiful substantial. The main ingredients are, in fact, the entrails of the pig – spleen, heart, lung, trachea and liver – because of this animal has never thrown away anything. Indeed, a Naples, they turned it into a delicacy, which today you eat in winter, you buy now only from the butcher is you cook less and less at home, given the long process and the abundance of saturated fats.

Neapolitan suffritto, the original recipe

TO to pat the Neapolitan fried recipe apparently it was such an Annarella, owner of a tavern in Porta Capuana, where the lawyers of the area used to take refuge. From one of these he would have put it on record: "Take it a pig's lung, cut it into small pieces and put it in a casserole a fry with a lie (suet) abundant, and if you like a sense of garlic and some laurel (laurel). Add a couple of when you are well fried tablespoons of peparoli preserve (sweet red peppers), to give them a beautiful color, and cerasielli (chillies) in powder as you want, to give them the strong, adding a competent amount of water with salt or broth, and continue to cook everything on a low heat . If at first you have not placed the laurel skirts and you want to give them flavor, put us at this point a bunch of aromatic herbs, ie rosemary, sage, laurel, majorana and peperna. When you want to serve it, remove the herbs and spread it smoking in the dishes, over bread crusts ". The most recent reformulation of this dish is found there Neapolitan cuisine, a sort of "bible" of the Neapolitan gastronomy, written by Jeanne Carola Francesconi in 1965.

The Neapolitan fried rice according to Antonio Tubelli

Antonio Tubelli, considered one of the last Neapolitan monzù for its kitchen of memory (in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries the chiefs of the aristocratic houses) and today chef of Baroq Art Bistro, rarely prepares it (but when it is a party), usually in the home, sometimes in an unpublished version with cannellini beans. This is his recipe:

Ingredients

A kilo and a half of pork entrails, preserves of sweet pepper, which can be replaced by tomato sauce, preserves of spicy pepper, essential since it gives the "strong" flavor. Extra virgin olive oil, not provided by the original recipe "but makes it more creamy", three tablespoons of suet, four cloves of garlic, bay leaf, salt and a glass of Aglianico (optional).

Method

Cut off the innards in not very big touches. Leave them to soak overnight in cold water, in order to bleed the blood. After rinsing them, brown the garlic, remove it and add the pork offal. Add salt to drain the water. Remove them and put aside the liquid, redo the sauté with a bay leaf and add them again. When they start to darken, add a glass of Aglianico. When the wine shrinks pour the preserves of both sweet and spicy peppers, until you find the right balance of flavor. If it dries too much, correct with previously drained water. Leave on the stove until all is well amalgamated it takes the unmistakable red brick color. At this point, the sauté is ready and you can either eat immediately or put in the trays and to make it solidify.

Where to eat strong soup in Naples

Today the Neapolitan fried meat is found in butcheries, not in all, in some taverns, in some pizzerias and in those few tripperie that still resist the advance of the times. Among these there are certainly, in the area Arenaccia, theAncient Tripperia 'or Russ', one of those places where pork is a cult and, at Pignasecca, Zendraglie. Local small and Spartan, where you eat a kitchen and at affordable prices. All 'Osteria La Chitarraon the other hand, the sauté puts it in the casatiello instead of hard-boiled eggs. A recipe from the grandmother of Peppe Maiorano, the owner. At the Trattoria del Buongustaio, in a small street in front of the Faculty of Literature and Philosophy of the University Federico II, we go for spaghetti with sautéed. In addition to being a condiment for pasta, some people thought of using it as a pizza topping. Such as Gaetano Genovesi which, in its premises in via Manzoni, makes it with San Marzano tomato, provola di Agerola, fried pork, Parmesan and basil. At Forcella there are those who dares even more. At the Pizzeria De 'Figliole, ancient local since 1860, the fried (strictly homemade) use it as a filling for fried pizza along with provola! To buy it in purity, just go in one of the butcher shops in the alleys of the historic center.

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