Tag: Neapolitan

Neapolitan pizza, the secret lies in the dough – Italian Cuisine

For the third generation of the historic family of Neapolitan pizza makers, the secret is in the dough. "But be careful not to slap him"

The art of pizza is a World Heritage Site. "The culinary know-how linked to the production of Pizza, which includes gestures, songs, visual expressions, local jargon, the ability to handle pizza dough, perform and share is an indisputable cultural heritage. The pizza makers and their guests engage in a social ritual, whose counter and oven act as a "stage" during the pizza production process ", reads one of the reasons with which UNESCO has already proclaimed four years ago "The art of the Neapolitan pizza maker" Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

A milestone they know well Francesco and Salvatore Salvo, of the Pizzeria Salvo (two locations, one in San Giorgio a Cremano, the other on the Riviera di Chiaia in Naples) which for years have been passionately dedicated to their work, carrying on a tradition that has been handed down for three generations. To do this they started from the basics, studying and working on doughs and cooking, developing gastronomic and entrepreneurial ideas, looking ahead and looking around, also strengthened by this important recognition.

Francesco and Salvatore Salvo (photo Aurora Scotto di Minico).
Francesco and Salvatore Salvo (photo Aurora Scotto di Minico).

«The manual skills of the pizza maker have been forgotten for too long. But it is precisely the craftsmanship that has made the art of Neapolitan pizza unique ". We all have in mind the pizza chef who twirls the pizza disc, almost as if he were slapping it. "But be careful, pizza is not slapped", underlines Salvatore Salvo. In Salvatore's memory there is his father, to whom he owes everything, but also a recent memory. “During the conference Pizzaformamentis a few years ago I asked the Campania oenologist professor Michele Moio what the terroir of pizza was for him; “In your art”, he replied . What he meant was more subtle than it seems. «Our terroir is the ability to manipulate, something that is learned after 10-12 years, what I like to call a 'shop'. Yet this has not always been the case. "Over 50 years ago, the dough was difficult to roll out because most of the time summary leavening was used or with flours classified by pizza makers as" national ", but with a poor predisposition to keep low leavening points. Then in the 80s and 90s this ability was lost in favor of doughs that were easier to work with, which did not require who knows what manual skill, the shop was no longer needed , Salvo recalls disconsolately. "Even my father taught me what hydration was, using non-technical empirical examples:" the dough s'adda fa 'muoll "he said, only after I understood that the water inside increases chemical processes and promotes quality leavening enzymes. The pizza becomes softer, “it melts in your mouth, it doesn't get killed”. Dialectal terms that today I myself would not know how to translate .

Among the fundamental and most difficult things for Salvatore Salvo to learn was the art of knowing how to roll out the pizza. "The terroir of pizza is the ability to make hundreds of pizzas per hour, knowing how to roll them out and cook them at their best, a mechanical job done with your hands, which you learn with experience. The same point of dough, which translates into a number (which makes no sense to me: for example 69, 67, 71) is actually born in the hands of the pizza chef, who realizes how much hydration the dough has, making it more sticky , elastic, sensitive and, despite the support of many modern technologies, intervening in an empirical way .

Pizza Ortolana Autumn November 2021 (photo Angela Sposito).
Pizza Ortolana Autumn November 2021 (photo Angela Sposito).


«When you knead, don't get too hard, the more force and friction you create, the more you affect the development of leavening. Therefore, avoid processes that substantially deform the dough. Unlike bread, which takes longer, for pizza there is no laying period between processing and cooking. Be gentle. This does not mean short leavening: for a pizza made of medium strength flour, it takes 24 hours at room temperature .

Incoming search terms:

Recipe Neapolitan Struffoli, the Campanian Christmas cake – Italian Cuisine

  • 500 g flour
  • 250 g honey
  • 100 g sugar
  • 70 g butter
  • 3 eggs
  • 3 egg yolks
  • tangerine
  • Orange
  • peanut oil
  • sugar sprinkles
  • Grand Marnier
  • salt

For the recipe of the Neapolitan struffoli, mix the flour with the sugar, the soft butter into small pieces, the eggs, the egg yolks, the grated zest of 1/2 orange and 1 mandarin, a pinch of salt and a sprinkle of Grand Marnier.
Work the mixture until a smooth dough is obtained. Cover it with plastic wrap and let it rest for 2 hours.
Resume the dough, remove small portions at a time and form loaves, then cut them into small dumplings. Round them in your hands then fry them in plenty of hot oil, a few at a time, until golden.
Drain them on kitchen paper.
Reheat the honey in a large saucepan and, when it has liquefied, immerse the struffoli in it and mix them so that they are evenly covered.
Remove the struffoli with honey, arrange them on a serving dish and decorate with sugar sprinkles.

Recipe: Emanuele Frigerio, Texts: Laura Forti, Photos: Giacomo Bretzel, Styling: Beatrice Prada

Neapolitan ragout, slow cooking for strong flavors – Italian Cuisine

Neapolitan ragout, slow cooking for strong flavors

As one of the most beautiful love stories, even that of Neapolitan ragù it starts right in the kitchen, more precisely on a Sunday morning, very early. We are in Italy, in a Neapolitan cuisine, between the scent of food and every delicacy! Yes, that's how it starts, by finely slicing the onion and dipping it into a saucepan with a drizzle of oil until it wilts. Then add the various cuts of meat, the red wine to blend, the tomato sauce and cook very slowly. Yes, for this type of sauce you need intangible ingredients: the weather and the patience.

A Neapolitan tradition
The Neapolitan ragù it is the forerunner for all other dual-use sauces or ragu. Yes, as you well know, once ready, the Neapolitan ragù sauce is used to season a good dish of pasta (better if Neapolitan ziti or broken mezzani) and the meat is served as a main course. Soft chops, sausages and steak cooked in the sauce for 3 hours or more over low heat … the goodness? Its delicacy has also won over two song writers Neapolitan, Eduardo De Filippo who sings its preparation in Saturday, Sunday and Monday And Giuseppe Marotta in the famous The gold of Naples.

The secret is to let the meat sauce "pippiare"
A Campania term that wants to emphasize the dessert sound (don't call it noise!) of the boiling sauce. A slow cooking, to be checked from time to time to make sure that the sauce is not too dry, to turn gently and taste to make sure that it is not lacking in salt, that it is perfect. Yes, because the Neapolitan ragù, like all those that have a double use, have a great one responsibility: they must be tasty to the right point to season the pasta and the meat must be cooked to perfection, soft and juicy.

The preparation of the ragù Neapolitan
A sauce rich in nuances, tradition and passion. Here are the doses for 6 people: 100 g of raw ham fillets, 50 g of salted bacon strips, 1.5 kg of rump or leg of pork, 50 g of lard, 400 g of onions, 2 cloves of garlic, 50 g of bacon, 1 dl of oil, 2,5 dl of dry red wine, 400 g of tomato paste (or 200 g of concentrate and 100 of tomato sauce).

Get ready to lard: take 100 g of raw ham and 50 of salted bacon strips to which you will have to add ground pepper and chopped parsley. Now lard 1.5 kg of meat with raw ham and bacon and tie it to keep it in shape.

Saute: finely chop 50 g of lard, 400 g of onions, 2 cloves of garlic, 50 g of bacon, put the mince in a saucepan with 1 dl of oil and fry over low heat. As soon as it starts to sizzle add the meat, close the lid and brown it on all sides, turning it from time to time.

A secret: browning the meat on all sides allows you to seal all the pores so that it does not lose all its liquids during cooking and that it can remain soft and juicy.

When the onions are golden brown, open the lid and add little by little 2.5 dl of dry red wine. Leave uncovered until the wine evaporates (this will take about 2 hours) and the meat will continue to cook in its own fat. Carry on slightly raising the fire.

At this point, add 2 tablespoons of double tomato concentrate, do it fry and keep stirring until it becomes very dark. Be careful not to let it burn! Subsequently, repeat the operation until you have added all the tomato paste. Cook gently for about 3 hours, taking care to mix and turn the meat to let it flavor.

In the end, add the tomato sauce, a pinch of salt and a ladle of water and cook uncovered for about an hour then, gently remove the meat and leave it aside. Continue by covering the pot and let peppiare for an hour and a half until the sauce has thickened.

Now taste, season with salt and put the meat back in the saucepan, bring back to a boil and start cooking the pasta!

What if the sauce is too much? It doesn't happen, but if it happens … Pour the still very hot sauce of the Neapolitan ragù in a glass jar, close it hermetically and let it cool upside down, as if it were a preserve.

October 2021
Giulia Ferrari

Proudly powered by WordPress

By continuing to use the site, you agree to the use of cookies. Click here to read more information about data collection for ads personalisation

The cookie settings on this website are set to "allow cookies" to give you the best browsing experience possible. If you continue to use this website without changing your cookie settings or you click "Accept" below then you are consenting to this.

Read more about data collection for ads personalisation our in our Cookies Policy page