Tag: hinterland

wine, aromatic herbs, oil and hospitality in the Ligurian hinterland – Italian Cuisine

They produce Pigato, have a widespread farmhouse with apartments in the village of Bastia and soon a restaurant. To discover Liguria, and meet a family with 4C.

The history of the Vio family is the history of many Italian peasant families, but theirs has a happy ending. The Vio family has been cultivating for three generations in the Albenga plain, an area with an excellent microclimate and fertile soil, where the first fruits were once grown and then arrived in the stalls of the northern gardeners. Then Italy changed, the small shops were replaced by supermarkets and fruit and vegetables began to travel for thousands of kilometers, crossing national borders. But while many chased higher yields and safer harvests, looking for answers in foreign pesticides and crops, they went the other way. Today they cultivate aromatic herbs and produce olive oil and wine, all strictly organic. "The use of pesticides, herbicides and chemical fertilizers is not part of the local tradition and we have done nothing but continue with the habits of the past. Cultivating organic is not a technical or economic choice: it is simply cultural ", explains Aimone Giobatta who, together with his wife Chiara, has always believed in organic, obtaining certification in 1989 and the land since 1999. Today together with his daughters Caterina, Camilla and Carolina manage theBioVio company, from the harvest to the daily packaging of aromatic herbs, the vineyard and cellar, from the welcome in the farmhouse to the future restaurant that is about to be born.

The intuition of aromatic herbs

Starting from Bastia, the headquarters of the company, aromatic herbs are grown in the ingauna plain while going up the valley that follows the Arroscia course to reach Ranzo and the high lands of the province of Imperia, vineyards and olive groves have always been worked on. «Wild thyme, sage, rosemary grow spontaneously here. The Ligurian climate and land are perfect for herbs, they have a more intense aroma and flavor. These are aromas that once the gardener gave you, but when supermarkets were born my father began to convert the company from horticultural to aromatic herbs and to pack them to sell them in large distribution: sage, rosemary, thyme, mixed bunches, dowry for the broth … , says Camilla, who today takes care of the administration. "My father was a visionary: herbs are the backbone that allowed us to dream, to plant new vineyards, to create our own label, to preserve the olive grove. While everyone was leaving the hills towards the sea, we invested here .

The award-winning Pigato

«We make wine in the vineyard, not in the cellar. We have taken up vines such as pigato, which were vinified at home for family consumption and not much appreciated , says Caterina, the eldest of the sisters and winemaker. "Here wine was not a product to be sold, people lived on oil and vegetables and therefore grapes were only for self-consumption. We, on the other hand, believed in local varieties, in the typical characteristics of the vine and in the territory . Quality wine in Liguria is a concept of the last twenty years and Vio is one of those labels that has contributed to this rebirth, with bottles that have earned great recognition thanks to the integration with tourist hospitality. Aimone Vio was awarded Winemaker of the year 2017 from Gambero Rosso guide and their Bon in da Bon 2017, a Pigato Doc, he earned three glasses according to the Gambero Rosso Wine Guide 2019. The Grand Père certainly deserves a mention, a Pigato Doc processed according to the old vinification that was made on white wines by fermenting the wine in contact with the skins without adding selected yeasts, with 10 months of aging in tonneaux. And then there is the 4C, named after the four women of the house, who share the initial of the name – a 100% Rossese di Campochiesa rosé. “We work as natural as possible and have just launched an organic Pigato without sulphites,” explains Caterina. During the visit to the cellar you can also taste and buy theTaggiasca monocultivar extra virgin olive oil, collected in the centuries-old olive groves of the lands of Ranzo in the Arroscia valley, 350 m above sea level.

The widespread agritourism

In 40 years in Bastia, every time the town became depopulated, they bought abandoned houses to make them a widespread agritourism, where they could feel at home. Where to feel in the Liguria of the past. Or perhaps that of the future. At guests' disposal there are eight delightful apartments furnished with old grandmother's furniture. They can be rented for a couple of nights or the whole week and, if desired, with the addition of a breakfast Ligurian style prepared by mother Chiara together with Carolina, who takes care of the farm and who is working on the family's latest project: the opening of a real restaurant with which to rediscover Ligurian cuisine; that we actually know very little. «Ligurian cuisine is little known beyond the stereotype of pesto and focaccia, but which has many influences: sea, land, France, Sardinia, and the trade route that passed from Genoa to Piedmont. Stay tune.

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Ten restaurants in the hinterland to discover true Ligurian cuisine – Italian Cuisine

Unique products, age-old recipes, simple flavors: the essence of Ligurian cuisine is tasted away from the sea and from the dishes found everywhere. Here are the places to enjoy it to the top

One says Liguria and thinks of the sea, the Levant and the West, the fish. In fact, i red prawns of Santa Margherita and Sanremo are increasingly rare, but remain at the top in the Mediterranean, Monterosso anchovies – fried, with a drizzle of oil or in the famous one bagnun – are exceptional, i gianchetti (in season) pancake preparations make your head spin. And there are traditional recipes of great impact: the ciupin (the fish soup), the brandacujun del Ponente based on potatoes and stockfish, the rich lean capon with vegetables, the greedy frisceu of cod. Everything to enhance the fish products and the tradition linked to the Ligurian Sea.

Pasqualina, savory pie par excellence

But Liguria at the table is a different story: a land kitchen, basically poor, which makes the best use of vegetables with asparagus and artichoke on all, the herbs (marjoram, borage, basil and wild ones for the preboggion), i typical cheeses as the Brussu of the Arroscia Valley and the prescinseua destined for the focaccia di Recco, the rabbit and the game in season. There is no sumptuousness or abundance, if anything, simplicity and direct taste in preparations with more than one contamination with neighboring Provence. A kitchen where an important role is played from savory pies, to be consumed even days after preparation. There Pasqualina it is the summit for history (legend, perhaps) and fame, even outside Liguria. But the region is very rich: there are those stuffed with artichokes, chard, pumpkin, onions; those based on rice and vegetables of all kinds; those with potatoes, with very old specialties such as frandura imperiese or la baciocca Genoese. And yet the green cakes, with local peculiarities such as the turtun of the Alta Val Nervia that looks like a wheel.

Mistress focaccia

The street food par excellence is the focaccia: that of Recco with cheese, the Genoese fugassa, the one with potatoes or onion. The latter was born as a food in the most popular neighborhoods of Genoa where it is called a fugàssa co-e çiòule. It was the usual breakfast of the harbor unloaders, very cheap and able to satiate a lot, as the onion blocks the hunger stimulus receptors. With a glass of white wine – u gianchettu – gives the best. The farinata, made from chickpeas, is no less passionate, Food spread throughout Italy with various names. But legend has it that it was born by pure chance in 1284, when Genoa defeated Pisa in the battle of Meloria. With the same ingredients as the farinata, except for the Ligurian extra virgin olive oil, of course, the panissa not to be confused with the Piedmontese rice dish. The farinata can be enriched with rosemary, spring onion, pumpkin.

The poetry of pesto

The first courses have in the trofie with pesto (other Ligurian typicality, which cannot be more terricolous) e in the pansotti with walnut sauce the cult dishes. But there are other pastas to taste like the trenette – linguine with an ovoid section – or the Genoese corzetti, the testaieu of the Val Graveglia and the testaroli of the Lunigiana, the mescciua spezzina (soup of leguni and cereals) and the famous Genoese minestrone. There is ancient history in tuccu zeneize: the ragù prepared with only one piece of meat – a touch in fact – cooked for a long time in (little) tomato sauce. The ideal is to combine them with mandilli, handkerchiefs of egg pasta, imported from the Arabs with whom the Genoese had commercial relationships. If the rabbit is the king of meats, the most famous recipe in the region is the Genoese top which consists of a piece of veal belly, cut so as to form a pocket and stuffed with numerous and varied ingredients. Poor cuisine that becomes rich.

Ancient sweets

Beyond the thousand local specialties, two are the symbolic sweets of Ligurian cuisine. The first is the Sacripantina, the soft and fortified cake once served during the holidays and which was born in 1851 to the renowned Preti pastry shop. All Genoese delight, it is composed of ingredients from sponge cake soaked in rum, marsala and sugar and covered with different butter creams. The pandolce it was born around the 16th century under the Lanterna, following a competition between pastry chefs called by the doge Andrea Doria, interested in finding a dessert that was long-lasting and representative of the Republic of Genoa. Praise be to the anonymous winner and for having found a dessert you would never tire of: raisins, fennel, pine nuts and candied fruit embrace this brick of pasta, sweetening it and softening its consistency. It well represents the soul of Ligurian cuisine, rough only in appearance, but engaging. Like the "lasagne da fiddià ai quattru tucchi" sung in the marvelous Crêuza de mä by the unforgettable Fabrizio De André. You will surely find it in the premises of our very personal selection.

La Brinca – Ne

For many it is the best Ligurian trattoria – it is a historic Slow Food Snail – favored by a splendid view. The Circella family offers the whole repertoire of specialties, Genoese in the first place. The cellar is famous.

Da Fiorella – Ortonovo

The ravioli in various recipes are a strength of a 1950s-style tavern, which is located among the olive groves on the border between Liguria and Tuscany. But the typical appetizers and meat main courses are also worth tasting.

House and Shop – Dolceacqua

A pleasant place furnished with a curious mix of vintage and modern pieces. The cuisine is not exempt from fish, but offers unique specialties such as the gran pisteu – the wheat soup – and the Rossese zabaione ice cream.

Caccia C’a Bugge – Campo Ligure

Raw materials from the area and great respect for tradition in this restaurant in the Stura Valley. Among the best dishes there are the pesto mandilli, the Genoese top and the tripe served with beans.

Antica Locanda Luigina – Carrodano

A few kilometers from the Cinque Terre, an evocative inn where you can taste many local dishes, also offered in two tasting sessions. To taste local cold cuts and cheeses, first courses and lamb dishes.

The Friends – Varese Ligure

In Val di Vara – bio zone par excellence – there are many good places. The most famous is that of the Marcone family. Super seasonal cuisine, apart from some classics such as corzetti with chopped pine nuts.

Mse Entirely – Calizzano

The tavern on the first floor of the historic building in the center is also suggestive. The cuisine is good at revisiting Western dishes, from smoked polenta with cheese to sheep's ricotta mousse.

Da Pippi – Masone

Establishment of the area, with a century of activity, offers Ligurian cuisine with some Piedmontese contamination. The Ligurian rabbit is not to be missed as much as the homemade desserts. Level cellar. Tel. 010.9269126.

Cian de Bià – Badalucco

It can only be reached on foot, but it's worth it. Two rustic rooms where you can taste after a taste of brandaujun, the first home-made, stewed tripe and grandma's pudding. Encyclopedic wine list.

Il Castagneto – Castiglion Chiavarese

A farm in Val Petronio that offers quality cuisine, based on raw materials all found in the area. Direct dishes: ancient prebuggion, risotto with Prescinseua, veal tip with aromatic herbs.

Where to find the real Romagna (which is that of the hinterland) – Italian Cuisine

You feel good on the Romagna coast. And you eat well, provided you avoid tourist traps. But it is easier to find good typical dishes, pointing inwards. Here are the unmissable places

Let's be clear: on the Romagna coast you are very well. The welcome is always warm, the beaches are the top of the peninsula, the restaurant offers everything and more. And knowing how to choose, you can take satisfaction even at the highest levels. Cesenatico has a Michelin starred like that Magnolia and the historic La Buca while Rimini responds with Guido – a rare case, because it has conquered Stella by actually working on the beach – and the revelation Abocar Due Cucine. Then there is the Plateau at Pennabilli, which is on the border with the Marche on the Apennines. But there are also on the coast excellent taverns such as La Marianna and the Osteria de Borg (Rimini), Sirocco (Bellaria), Al Deserto and Emilia (Cervia), Osteria dei Murè (Cattolica) and the famous Osteria del Gran Fritto of the Bartolini family in Cesenatico. Without forgetting that in this land the rite of piadina is celebrated, one of the most beloved Italian street foods: here there are real masterpieces.

First courses and lots of meat

As we have seen, good places are not lacking. However, though … if you ask a romagnolo doc where he goes to eat, especially in summer, will direct you inland: at 15, 30, maximum 40 minutes from the coast. Because there is the (almost) non-touristy Romagna, which at still competitive prices – and in any case not at the level of those on the Riviera – puts the best table on the table, starting from cold cuts and cheeses (ah, the squacquerone…), obviously focusing on the territory. Which means nothing or very little fish, but lots of meat (mutton, rabbit, chicken, sausages) and a terrific series of first courses: strozzapreti, tagliatelle, tortelli, ravioli, garganelli, passatelli in broth or dry … served in the bread basket while Albana, Trebbiano and Sangiovese reign supreme in drinking. Did you have an appetite? Then mark these ten places that make you happy.

Ristorante dei Cantoni – Longiano

For 30 years in the center of one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. We start with the palette of mixed tastings – even original – with piadina. All the fresh pasta of the former is handmade: among the specialties passatelli in brodo and nests of crepes au gratin with fondue of soft cheeses. Follow the proposals of Romagna meat such as the blackberry medallion with pancetta and bay leaf or the pork fillet. Homemade desserts, a wine cellar attentive to the territory.

Trattoria Da Savino – Coriano

Here the fish is also staged on a fixed day with a dedicated menu and another based only on cod. It is a Spartan trattoria, but of substance, always crowded even thanks to the quality / price ratio. If the tagliatelle with meat sauce are the main dish, they also deserve the fried sardines, the pumpkin ravioli with chicken liver sauce, sausage and chickpeas, the cuttlefish with beans (De.Co. dish of the town), the rabbit in porchetta and tripe.

Trattoria del Passatore – Santarcangelo di Romagna

Located in the historic center, a few steps from the characteristic village and the tuff caves, since 1998 it has dedicated itself to the rediscovery and enhancement of recipes of the past such as tripe, pasta and beans, chicken with saucepan, rabbit alla cacciatora, cod stewed. Great space for grilling, with meat from the Valmarecchia area. But the whole menu is full of local products, the result of great research. Try the homemade desserts.

Maloura – Savignano sul Rubicone

The owners call it "agriosteria di campagna": it is located within a farm with 110 years of activity and that in recent years has totally turned to nature. Products that are also sold on the Rimini market or end up in the kitchen for a simple and tasty menu, in search of true tradition. One of the cult dishes is curzul (thick tagliolino) with Romagna scallion, chopped sausage and violina pumpkin.

Il Matto – Sala di Cesenatico

An authentic trattoria, a few km from the beaches of Cesenatico, which is very popular for its rustic and informal mix, but above all for its typical cuisine. The strong point is represented by the main courses exclusively of meat: in addition to the grilled mixed meats there are recipes from the rural tradition such as the salmì pigeon, the baked or roast rabbit and the Romagna-style rooster. Curiosity: bread is banned, only piadina is served.

Trattoria Renzi – Santarcangelo di Romagna

An institution of the town, run by the Renzi family for three generations: retro furnishings and period photos testify that it has always been cooked in defense of tradition. The menu is laced but not disappointing: sliced strictly cut with a knife, the legendary tagliatelle with meat sauce, grilled meats, roast meat (by reservation only), tripe and cod on Thursdays. Waves of piadina and the donut of the house to close well.

La Sangiovesa – Santarcangelo di Romagna

It is a restaurant and tavern, inside the eighteenth-century Palazzo Nadian, all well-kept and well-lit niches and small rooms. Here the azdores pull and bake piadine in view, while in the kitchen they prepare appetizers rich in selected products and tasty dishes such as rosole with cockerel and stridoli ragù, ricotta ravioli, pullet alla cacciatora. Large cellar and the possibility of two tasting menus, one of which is vegetarian.

Trattoria dell'Autista – Savignano sul Rubicone

Faithful to the concept that truckers eat well and abundantly, in this place – founded in 1932 – one is never disappointed by the quality and the portions. Do not miss the piadina with cured meats and cheeses as an appetizer, then the series of first courses where the ravioli stuffed with ricotta and Parmesan cheese stand out, seasoned with butter and sage. Continue with the meat and close with a very good English soup. Praiseworthy Prices.

Historical Center – Budrio

It could only be in a pedestrian alley in the center: a familiar and cared for environment that wants to break away from the typical trattoria with a 360 ° proposal that also contemplates fish. However, the meat dishes remain the real protagonists with recipes such as the quail breast panatine with its eggs and red beet pie or beef loin with stracchino cheese fondue and envy. The carta dei vini is not limited to the territory.

Osteria Spacciodivino – San Giovanni in Marignano

Small family-run restaurant, which immediately wins over the environment, the lively public and the warm service. You can also enter only for a platter of cold cuts and cheeses, with particular attention to the pecorino cheeses. Then space for the first Romagna dishes, with passatelli with porcini mushrooms and ravioli in the front row. Lots of meat per second, with a very popular cut, but also a surprising hamburger. You drink well.