Aperitif trend
It is well known that the trend is now the apericena, a neologism that indicates the buffet dinner that is consumed on the premises at aperitif time. In reality the card of the Crusca for this rampant neologism, for some annoying, has not yet arrived, but the concept of food and wine pause before dinner (or even as a substitute) does not really have much to do with the old snack. It does not have it in the sense that the most assiduous ingredients of these two moments are often different and it does not have it in the modalities, in the times and in the meaning.
The movement of the snack
And there are those who want a snack, in the footsteps of the Piemontese peasant's sinoira snack, made of simple foods and slow in a non-random time, to then favor a frugal, light and healthy dinner when you were more oriented towards the bed that towards the table. In some respects the snack movement is a cultural movement and it is interesting to analyze the obvious similarities between snack and aperitif, but also the substantial differences. Maybe to revive the first one.
Charm of the late evening snack
In rural Piedmont, in fact, the late-evening snack, before the very last dose of work in the fields, obviously had a strong symbolic value and the difference with the current aperitif is profound, even for a cultural value. Today, overshadowed by the apericena, whose variants are now embarrassing and range from aperiterme to aperifish to arrive at the aperitessa, the old salted snack still retains a tradition in some of the most popular and genuine local bars / restaurants / inns: from salami to fried foods, from pickles to cheese, the ideas for a tasty and creative snack (which is not aperitif) are many. And it is foreseeable that the snack places will be back in vogue.
The snack places
Before meals became a social occasion and not a nutritional necessity, the concept of aperitif-dinner already existed, but this pause was declined differently. Long after the Piedmontese sinoira snack, but long before the advent of the apericena (or aperifish, aperiterme and aperimessa), there was simply a snack, to be consumed in those places widespread in certain towns in the hinterland where you could stop, surrounded by a comfortable panorama, for a fave-e-salami with glass of wine, maybe a game of cards. And if the old snacks, on the wave of the vintage revenge, were coming back? No longer an aperitif, a social moment in which the buffet spreads spritz and canapés, but peasant bread, cheese, flask of wine, salami.
Original ideas
In Alto Adige they combine pickles with their own meats, while in Liguria you can find cucculli and focaccia, omelette it is an evergreen as it is the old and timeless bread with oil, maybe even the soma d’aj, a typical Piedmontese recipe, consisting of a slice of bread rubbed with garlic and sprinkled with olive oil. THEl all, ça va sans dire , accompanied by a wine of own production. Nel Pinerolese for example they used to drink picheta. But in reality the flask of wine goes sempre well. purchis is not a spritz.
Emanuela Di Pasqua,
15 October 2019
DISCOVER THE COOKING COURSES SALT & PEPE
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