Let it be apricot (the most loved by Italians), of berries or cherries, peach or strawberry, Italians like jam. And more and more, given that sales grew by 3.4% in the last year, also stimulated by a continuous offer evolution. At the supermarket the shelf of jams has been enriched with many new products: jams with less sugar and more fruit, enriched with superfood (like ginger or turmeric) or ingredients exotic (like lime), made with fine and seasonal ingredients. And even those who are attentive to the line can enjoy their slice of bread and jam thanks to the new types of jams light or without sugar. There are many new things under the banner of “more fruit, less sugar ". Let's get to know them better.

Jam or extra jam?
By law the "jam" must contain the 35% minimum of fruit (in the form of pulp or purée), while theextra jam"Must have at least 45% of fruit pulp. This means that in each jar there are at least 35-45% g of sugars. In reality, as much as 2/3 of the weight of a jam is owed to sugars (the remaining 1/3 is made of water), which derive only in part from the fruit used. Many are added during processing. It may be syrup glucose, raw sugar or cane, or sugars extracted from fruit, such as fructose. That is why often, on the label of an "extra jam" it can be read that, to prepare 100 grams, 45 grams of fruit and 63 grams of sugars. Even if the sum is higher than 100, it is not a mistake. In fact the value of the sugars refers to the quantity of sugary substances present in the product, and therefore also includes those naturally present in the fruit. To complete the "recipe" of jam there are thickeners (in particular pectin), necessary to obtain the right consistency, and often antioxidants are used, such as ascorbic acid or citric acid. The law has established a list of additives granted (but not obligatory): they are 25 for the "jams" and 12 for the "extra jams".

Without sugar? Impossible
A jam "without sugar"Cannot exist because these substances are the main constituents of the fruit and because they are necessary to stabilize the jam, allowing the storage. And then, how do we put it with i jars on which is written "without sugar"? It means that sucrose, the classic kitchen sugar, has not been used. Sugar is used instead "Alternative", usually made from fruit (such as concentrated apple juice, juice of agave or grape sugar). Instead the claim "without added sugar" is reserved for jams prepared with non-sweeteners carbohydrate and, therefore, cannot be used on the labels of those that contain food products with sweetening properties, such as apple juice, of lemon or of acerola, honey or concentrategrapes.

To read? You can …
A jam can be defined "Light" or "light" when it has at least 30% fewer calories. But for sale there are jars that boast of having 80% less. An important "cut" obtained thanks to two "Ploy": the reduction of fruit (and therefore of the sugars it naturally contains) and the use of non-glucidic compounds (such as sorbitol, glycosides extracted from stevia, sucralose or acesulfame K) with a high sweetening power. To get the same sweetnesstherefore, less is needed. And so calories decrease. For example, if 100 g of "Extra jam" they bring 250 calories, the same product sweetened with fructose and sweeteners stops at 91 calories. Eye, however, on the label: to compare the contribution energetic of a "light" jam it is necessary to verify the value for 100 grams and not to portion, because it is calculated differently among the various manufacturers (for some it is 15, for another 20 or 25 grams).

Only fruit? Yes but…
To the letter the only ingredient is the fruit with its derivatives, such as concentrated grape juice, apple puree and lemon juice. Going to check the ingredients is important to understand the percentage of fruit of departure (generally around 40-60%) and that of sugars and thickeners obtained from fruit (such as grape sugar and pectin, which is one fiber natural obtained, for example, from apples). For this product it is important that the raw material is collected when it is ripe, and therefore so sweet to allow not to have to add sucrose.

And the compote?
It is not regulated by law, but, by convention, this term is used for products that are richer in fruit (at least 60-65%), sometimes without thickeners or pectin. Only four additives are allowed: sodium or potassium citrate, pectin and calcium chloride. They usually have a shorter deadline than the jams, just because of the minor content of sugar.

Manuela Soressi
August 2019

DISCOVER THE COOKING COURSES OF SALT & PEPE

Other Recipes you can read:

• Bruscandoli, what they are and how to cook them in ..

  Have you ever heard of the bruising them? If before asking how to cook them you are wondering what they are, we give you a clue. The ..

• Tagliatelle with pistachio pesto and pea cream – Italian cuisine ..

  After keeping some aside for the final decoration of the dish, place the pistachios, the chilli pulp, a few grains of coarse salt and the washed and dried parsley ..

• Pistachio rice arancini – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay

  Brown the chopped onion with the butter in a non-stick pan.Add the rice and let it toast, then add the hot broth little by little and cook. In the meantime, ..