Francesca's tortelli: from (ancient) grains to the table – Italian Cuisine

Francesca's tortelli: from (ancient) grains to the table


Everything as in the past: products and production. And with a real and human contact between producer and consumer. Here's how, where and when it happens

Francesca is a special person. And things also do of the same pasta, such as bread, cakes and, of course, as a good valance, tortelli. However, what differentiates her products from many others is the starting raw material: all ancient grains that she herself has researched and recovered and that she cultivates today on the morainic hills, to then grind them in stone in a nearby mill and thus give life to her creations.

The Brado company and the Strie

Francesca was born and raised in Volta Mantovana, on the morainic hills of the Lower Garda, in that marvelous territory between the Po Valley and the province of Mantua in the south and Lake Garda and the provinces of Brescia and Verona in the north. It is a large amphitheater that originates from the rocky debris transported by the Garda glacier about two million years ago. And in this ancient land Francesca saw us the right place to grow old grains. It all started after years of experience in a fresh pasta laboratory, Peasant pantry, when it becomes fundamental for her to make a product that first of all makes her feel good, therefore made with safe ingredients, grown by her, starting from wheat. So he realizes what was his great dream: he goes in search of ancient seeds such as Senatore Cappelli, Gentil Rosso, Rye, Saraceno (the one that makes it even more painful) and even of native Mantuan pumpkins. But Francesca, perhaps, would not have done all this if her medical son had not been by her side, who made a great contribution above all on the nutritional aspects of the grains, which were those that were so dear to her heart. And so, among not a few initial difficulties, they started producing everything with their grains. «It was not easy, above all to find the best courses and wait. But we were sure of one thing: modern wheat harms people and the environment .
With this in mind, the company was born Brado and the Striae with a really production from the field to the table, also because the grains, once collected, are brought directly to the mill of Rovigo, where Cristina and her son Luca still grind them in stone, just as they once did. Today Francesca is no longer alone, many are working with her, but above all to believe in her project, such as Mara, also a travel companion. "In September the company turns six and I'm happy to have fought when everyone told me I was crazy."

Chisulin, Mantuan tortelli and sbrisolona

Many of the products of the Brado e le Strie company are present both with 100% wholemeal spelled flour and with a percentage of soft wheat, always organic and cultivated by them, such as byzantium. This, Francesca explains, to get used to customers who are not yet all ready for such a "dark" product, especially for traditional ones, such as the Mantuan tortelli. In fact, Francesca prepares them in both versions, but always with the same classic filling: pumpkin (also grown by her), amaretti, mustard, parmesan and nutmeg. And so are the other tortelli: from ricotta and spinach and braised ones, to ravioli with St. Peter's herbs, a wild herb that gathers around there. Together he also prepares sauces to season them, such as duck ragout; in short, just like at home, also because the flavors are just those. Another strong point is the bread, both the naturally leavened loaf that lasts for days; and Chisulil, a yeast-free bread, typical of the Mantuan tradition, which also lasts up to ten days. Then there are other products, always all with their grains, such as fresh pasta such as lasagna, gnocchi, bigoli, capunsei, maccheroncini, tagliatelle; or breadsticks, pizzas and focaccias; or even sweets such as pies, cakes, brioches and, of course, the sbrisolona, ​​widespread throughout Lombardy, but originally from Mantua.

At the market and the delivery van

Francesca's products are mainly found on the market, which for her is the place par excellence where she loves to sell. "There is still that direct and human relationship on the market, which also allows me to tell what is behind a tortello or a piece of bread; then we also meet with the others, it is truly a meeting place, one of the few left . This is why it makes a lot of it, as much as it can, together with its collaborators, from Verona to Milan, at least one for each day of the week: Tuesdays in Desenzano del Garda and Mantua; Wednesday in Viadana and Asola; Thursday in Milan, Desenzano and Legnago; Friday in Suzzara; Saturday again in Mantua and Milan; and Sunday in Porto Mantovano, San Giovanni Lupatoto and in Milan, in that marvelous farmer's market inside the popular houses in via Solari 40. In short, it is impossible not to have the pleasure of meeting her at least once.
Alternatively, there is also an online shop, which was already in the pipeline before the lockdown, where you can buy everything at home, in the provinces of Milan and Mantua. And do you know what is the beauty? That she comes directly to your home with her van. And as Francesca says: «When Brado arrives, the Striae are happy! Because what we do for you, we eat it too! .

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