"Bread of angels", "honey of dew"Or" secretion of the stars ". In his long "career" the manna has been called in so many ways, that they have a single common denominator: it is a divine gift. A manna that descends from the sky, it is still said today to indicate a positive event and unexpected, which brings luck. Graduation miraculous this sweet sap takes it back for centuries: first of all because it flows bitter but then, on contact with air oxygen, it becomes sweet. And then because it leads well: being able to pick it up (a difficult task, which requires a lot of skill) meant having a tesoretto, because it was in great demand by the drug manufacturers and cosmetics from around the world and, therefore, well paid. Today little remains of this ancient tradition, documented as early as the 16th century, because over the years70 has been supplanted by the spread of its laboratory equivalent, the mannitol, derived from sugar beet waste. Thus the collection of natural manna survived only on the slopes of the Madonie in Sicily, between the centers of Pollina and Castelbuono. And it is precisely from here that the "Relaunch" of the manna, entered among the principals Slow Food and rediscovered for its natural properties.
What is in the manna
The "rediscovery" of the manna has also stimulated new ones do you study on its characteristics and its properties, and also on new ways to use it (for example, at the University of Palermo they are experimenting with a manna beer). The conclusions of this research are interesting and confirm that it is a sweetener natural tolerated also by diabetics and of one of the few vegetable laxatives without effects side. Moreover, in moderate doses, it stimulates the secretion of biliary tract. Properties that are due to its complex composition: the pure manna consists mainly of mannite, organic acids, water, glucose and, to a lesser extent, from levulose, mucilage, resins and nitrogen compounds. Therefore, manna lends itself to be used, in modest doses, as an ingredient in baked desserts, puddings and ice cream instead of sugar or sweeteners of synthesis.
The award-winning confectionery company Fiasconaro from Castelbuono uses it to make one of its cult products: Gold of Manna, a "panettone" craft coated with white glaze and mannetti casting, to be spread with the manna cream supplied in a jar in the package. Manna is also an excellent natural remedy to fight against constipation, even in children, since it is an osmotic laxative. In fact, when it arrives in the intestine, it retains and attracts a lot of water, thus making the feces more soft and liquid.
How it is produced
Manna is the sap naturally produced in summer from the plants of some species of the genus Fraxinus, like theorniello or ash from the manna (Fraxinus ornus). But not always and everywhere. They need one hot weather and dry and the absence of rains to ensure that these trees do "Stressino" and that their sap is retained in the trunks. The mannaroli, armed with special billhooks, make precise and "surgical" engravings cross on stems and branches so as to make it gush and to channel it into lamellas that look like stalactites. Once it has solidified (a condition that does not happen if it rains, since the water melts it), the manna comes scraped from the bark and collection carefully. Today an innovative technique is used: the manna is made to drain on nylon threads, so that it does not touch the ground and does not come into contact with impurity, and that it remains more integral forming longer cannoli. More the "Cannuolo" it's perfect, the more it increases the value, which goes up to over 200 euros per kg.
The manna of the third millennium
In Castelbuono, in the Palermo area, thanks to the investments made by Foundation with the South, in 2015 the was born Manna Madonita Consortium, headed by four local mannaroli cooperatives (of which three are social cooperatives). In five years he has recovered 60 hectares of abandoned ash trees, has formed a new generation of mannaroli and put this fine product back on the market, giving it to pharmaceutical and food companies. And sells it online, through his place, in the form of cannoli or in small pieces, and also as an ingredient in cosmetics that exploit the emollient properties, such as soaps and cream for hands.
Manuela Soressi
November 2019
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