The chef from Senigallia marvels with the third star: the second in two years. «Celebrate cooking for 300 people. In life it takes lightness ". Our country becomes the second most awarded by the «Red
The chef Mauro Uliassi, is awarded three Michelin stars: he is the idol, and the great novelty of2019 edition of the French guide. At the Auditorium Niccolò Paganini of Parma there is a roar for the chef of Senigallia that, with the restaurant that bears his name, has won the most coveted goal. An even more amazing success considering that, thanks to him, Italy reaches the round share of 10 tristellati and, with 29 new stars, becomes the second most awarded nation in the world.
Uliassi, born in 1958, opened his restaurant in 1990, together with the sister Catia. The kitchen reigns in his kitchen fish but there is also a lot game. «We have opened working 24 hours a day, but with a certain lightness, which I like to preserve. We are closed 3 months a year and 3 days a week ". The company also works in its restaurant, near the sea Chantal wife, the brother in law is Filippo, greater than his two sons. Among his icon-dishes, «Soup of brodetto: a piece of bread to dip in a concentrated fish sauce .
We met the chef during the post-graduation lunch. Slightly confused by the media outburst, but very happy, it is told a The Italian kitchen sipping a sip of Brunello di Montalcino frugally.
Surprised?
"Beautiful things, as such come to surprise you: you must be ready. But know how to also preserve the emotion. As an Olympic champion once said "it is a drop of amazement that I wish it would never end". This result is the result of a perfect machine to which all my team has worked ".
How do you get 3 Michelin stars?
«Let's be clear: you have to have the economic strength to manage all this. Although it is a great success. Once it was enough to work 24 hours a day and get involved. Today we must go beyond enthusiasm, we must live and earn money. Otherwise it's going to Formula 1 and not having a sponsor .
In addition to capital, how much does human capital count?
«Fundamental: in my case it is my work group, the one that was convinced and convinced to follow me to seek excellence
What is excellence?
«It is the aspiration that exists in each of us to seek the best we can, within ourselves. The difficulty is recognizing your talent: once you do it, you get passionate and become your life. It happens in all fields, to a chef as a mason. Then you have to identify find someone with your own inclinations and make sure that you follow .
Many will be congratulated with her: the most welcome comment?
"To tell you the truth, it was a prediction. A certain Neapolitan with whom I saw myself two days ago, he had subdued something. This is about my friend Antonino Cannavacciuolo. He looked at me and said: "You see that you keep sugar in your heart", or "keep your heart in sugar", you can see that you are happy. He has a particular feeling and has had it in certain situations. Thank you so much for this.
Italy has 29 first stars and becomes the second most awarded country in the world: what does it say to young chefs?
"That if they understood their deepest potential they did bingo. If you care about your talent then success comes, in relation to how much you believe and how much commitment you want to give .
We always talk a lot about Michelin. There are also those who have taken it off. Why is it important for you?
"Because it certifies a status and is something easily recognizable and decodifiable outside.
But why the "Rossa"?
«Because it is international because it speaks to the world: it is they who tell you you are there and why you are there. And do you know why? They were the first to have an intuition: to create a careful and careful business related to the restaurant industry. They started from the tires, they moved on to the road and to the path that people did to move from one place to another. Path during which people turn and eat. They gave a simple path to an extraordinary meaning .
To get to her you have to do it by road.
«In reality we are at the center of the Marche region and in the center of Italy: a crazy crossroads. If you leave Bologna at 8 noon, you're here. And my friend Moreno Cedroni is very close .
He often mentions his colleagues: do you team up with chefs?
«Of course, it is of fundamental importance: Moreno, for example, is the element that has always kept me awake: 40 seats 40 and me. You do not escape for those who pass by here and love good food .
Is there a dish that you would always eat?
"No, I'm not interested in anything except what I'm doing right now. Dishes of 10 years ago now have no meaning, if not to be stages of a journey .
Plate of 2018 to keep in the menu next year?
"Fusilli and slippers with" lardo "of octopus, created by Mauro Paolini, the husband of my sister who has been working with us for 20 years. We are a group of extraordinary work of which I am the gustatory compass, that is, I decide which are the timbres of flavor. Then everyone in mind one thing and discuss it. But the dish, to end in the menu, must be applauded by all the staff .
Why is Italian cooking increasingly loved in the world?
«Because it is simple and made of extraordinary products, it is aromatic. But look at the clichés: Italian cuisine really exists only in Italy ".
Meaning?
"Abroad you can assemble, even masterfully, Italian excellence: sauce, balsamic vinegar, the right pasta. But for a magnificent dish it also takes the atmosphere and the right landscape .
Does the chef have to stay in the kitchen or can he stay anywhere?
«The chef must first be in the kitchen and achieve and consolidate goals, then he can go anywhere. It depends on how it is able to organize itself, on its capabilities and potential ".
Where do you want to go?
"I do not know yet. Now I'm too happy and I still can not think of tomorrow. But tonight I celebrate cooking for 300 people (dinner in honor of the guide's guests, ed), with all my staff. Everyone will give us a lot of compliments and that's okay. "
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