Tag: Naviglio

NAPA is born: make Naviglio Pavese great again – Italian Cuisine


After Nolo in Milan, NAPA arrives. Naviglio Pavese chefs and restaurateurs focus on the self-determination of the neighborhood

The Naviglio Pavese is the “return” canal, it flows towards Ticino, while the Naviglio Grande is the one that feeds the dock. The sense of the waters, however, also tells about the attraction of the two most well-known canals in Milan and their adverse destinies.

The Naviglio Grande is today the most crowded with clubs, restaurants and shops. The other ship, the one in via Ascanio Sforza which today appears sadder, with abandoned boats and deserted premises, if compared with those of the twin, was, however, until the 1990s IL Naviglio, that of the night, of live music, of the creation of the myth of this area of ​​Milan. Here there was Le Scimmie and the movida the real one, from the nineties, but now the glories of the past seem distant. But only if you look at the city center, because beyond, beyond the ring road, where the sixties barracks begin and the bohemian charm is breathed very little, is it quite another thing: new clubs, restaurants and a group of restaurateurs and traders who have decided that it's time for Make Naviglio Pavese great again.

freight it was an invention of three architects looking for a neighborhood brand, on the false line of SoHo or Tribeca (hence the English definition "NOrth of Loreto") that could re-evaluate the area, until 2016 rather popular and peripheral. It worked and so also on the other side of Milan those who work here decided to believe in the right to self-determination of peoples and create a new neighborhood. Na.Pa.
Na.Pa is a committee of merchants, associations and citizens born with the aim of enhancing the neighborhood that, beyond the ring road, runs alongside the Naviglio Pavese. A territory that deserves to be known and experienced for its history, for its identity and for all the opportunities it can offer.

Claudio Sadler, chef and Milanese doc, he arrived on the Naviglio Pavese in 1996. "These were the years of the antiques, students and painters' naviglio. It was the most bohemian Naviglio and I wanted to tie myself to this story. Then this canal to the ring road of viale Tibaldi became commercial, the nightlife area. The Milanese nightlife was born there. " In 2007, looking for more space brings starred restaurant and modern trattoria into today's spaces. "Here there was practically nothing", but today the position can be defined as in front of Distreat and between the Osteria GrandHotel and Cantina Urbana. Fifty meters and two banks in which to count five addresses that are worth a visit. "Together with Distreat and the Altavia agency, we decided to team up and give voice to our neighborhood, an association", he told me in March 2020, as soon as the lockdown began. In July Na.Pa., the urban redevelopment project wanted to give life to an area that for years has been revived only by the few daredevils.

«It is useless to act alone, we must give voice to a neighborhood that otherwise lives only thanks to the single light of a restaurant. We have a mind in mind calendar of initiatives which will tell the centuries-old history of the canal, the link with the Oltrepò Pavese, the Leonardo locks. Not to do business, but to make culture. There will be a road redevelopment, a road modernization project with a cycle path that will arrive from Milan to the Ticino Park ", he told me well before the boom of bikes and scooters," and initiatives that will feature wine, rice and countryside products Milanese". The plan was to start with the Salone del Mobile, postponed to 2021, but Na.Pa. he does not want to wait and in October we will start with an initiative together with the Historic Buttafuoco Consortium. Because the Naviglio to be rediscovered is also the Oltrepò wines and the excellence of the surroundings of Milan.

Eating (and drinking) along the Naviglio Pavese – Italian Cuisine


The other ship is returning to new life. Here are our favorite places, on a journey following the current from the dock to the city limits. Bars, restaurants, pizzerias (street food and urban cellars) and all the addresses along the Naviglio Pavese

The Naviglio in Milan is called in the singular because almost all of them pour along the Naviglio Grande, full of clubs and restaurants (some excellent, most for the use and consumption of tourists). But also on the other Naviglio, the Pavese one, addresses are not lacking. Here is our list, from Chinese fast food to the pizzeria, passing through the starred restaurant and the new openings. From the dock, following the current, towards the periphery and the city limits.

Mini Maoji
Maoji's younger brother, in Aspromonte square, this Chinese fast food specializes in street food from Hunan. Excellent bao, ravioli, aubergines, bowls of lamian and a few other specialties to feed yourself for less than € 4. Self service and with few frills, you can eat at the tables inside or outside. In the summer with a frozen Tsingao it is perfect. For those who love strong flavors.
Naviglio Pavese towpath 6

Fog
Just around the corner, this restaurant was one of the most talked about openings of 2019 (for the good). It's all very minimal, cold and the fog can be breathed from the photos on the walls and in a Milanese atmosphere that is all in the Nordic approach to catering: short menu, natural wines, seasonal and carefully chosen raw materials, unusual combinations on traditional ingredients . Try the brioche bread with duck pâté and caramelized onions, and desserts. On the rest you always fall on your feet with first and fifth quarters (about 50 €). For those who want to say: "I've been there."
Via Evangelista Torricelli, 15

Osteria Grand Hotel
If you haven't been there for ten years, it's still all the same, luckily. The Osteria Grand Hotel in Milan has a history that dates back to the early 1900s when it was called El Gandin and was known for its bowling green and the terrace where people danced in the evening. In 1981 it became Grand Hotel Pub and a program of shows of the new Milanese cabaret began after dinner where Lella Costa, Angela Finocchiaro, Aldo and Giovanni (then without Giacomo), Raul Cremona, Paolo Rossi and Claudio Bisio took their first steps. There is still a piano and for years jazz and blues have been played, with some appearances by Enzo Jannacci. The cuisine is Lombard, contemporary, so there is no lack of head, braised meat, polenta and traditional dishes, a hearty wine list. The internal room is elegantly decadent, but in the summer you can sit at the bucolic outdoor tables. For nostalgics.
Via Ascanio Sforza, 75

Chic’n Quick
The modern trattoria designed by Claudio Sadler, father of Milanese catering. More informal than the starred restaurant, we do not settle on techniques or raw materials, the menu changes every day and we spend around € 30 (for a gastronomic experience that everyone agrees). They range from pan-fried foie gras escalope with zibibbo gel, sweet-and-sour red onion and pumpkin mustard to masterfully executed Milanese classics: Milanese yellow rice to the jump with Grana Padano 27 months Riserva (€ 11) and veal cutlet Milanese (high or low), spinach and ratte potatoes (€ 23). And, for those who want, tandem menu, consisting of an appetizer, a first course, a second course and a dessert, for two people for € 100. For those who believe in democratic luxury.
Via Ascanio Sforza, 77

Sadler
The father of contemporary Milanese cuisine (complete with Ambrogino d’Oro), settled on the Navigli since 1986 when he took the Michelin star at the Osteria di Porta Cicca. He has been at this address since 2007 and thanks to him the Naviglio Pavese has remained on the map of Milanese restaurants. Here the tasting menu is widely recommended, it has several and with formulas even for the youngest, just to bring everyone closer to haute cuisine. Try one of its fois gras at least once, like the foie gras salami, raisins, walnuts and seasonal fruit (on the menu since 1998) and new dishes, such as the Cevice di “Porta Ticinese” with lobster and nerves. For true gourmets.
Via Ascanio Sforza, 77

Distreat
The most Milanese restaurant there is: on the Naviglio, a former industrial space, opened by three young people who did other things, in a communication agency. Milanese, so where you eat, but above all you feel good, from morning breakfasts to after dinner cocktails. Informal but stylish, the location does its part, but the menu amazes us by offering "Italian cuisine enriched by a touch of novelty", and without excess price. Example, Maccheroncino with chicken giblets ragout, ginger and nepetella for € 15 (or half portion for 11). There is no shortage of creamed cod, Milanese risotto with or without ragout of ossobuco, tripe and tartare. And for those who can't choose, the tasting menu is 45 €. For today's Milanese.
Alzaia Naviglio Pavese, 78 / Via Imperia 3

Urban Cellar
The first winery that produces wine in Milan, presses and refines grapes from the surroundings and the rest of Italy in barrels, bottles wine with funny names like Naviglio Rosso. Large, former industrial and bright environment, it is the first new generation wine bar: that is, a place specializing in wine that is appreciated even by those who are not fond of wine. Because they know about it, but they don't mind it, they have a bulk wine that taps from steel tanks at an excellent quality / price ratio (€ 4 per glass) and bottles for connoisseurs such as their Vulk 'Kaniko dell'Etna. The aperitif is made with (excellent) meats and cheeses, they organize concerts, tastings and even the harvest. For those who love wine or simply want to understand something more.
Via Ascanio Sforza, 87

Motelombroso
A pleasant place, hidden from view, which as Milan wants today brings together many things: restaurant, club, bookshop or "motel" to rent a wine room by the hour. Of super design, but without being for this cold and bucolic despite being in Milan, this former canton house has become the perfect place for Sunday brunch, an aperitif at sunset, a salty husband to be nibbled or a tasting dinner done and finished. For the detail freaks.
Towpath Naviglio Pavese, 256

Abrupt grass
The first restaurant with vegetable garden in Milan is the right destination for a trip out of town by bicycle (10 minutes from the ring road). It is an enchanted place, Milanese by location but international by vocation. Chef Alice Delcourt is half French, half English, raised in the United States and de facto Italian and created this place in her image and likeness. They define it as a link between the countryside and the city, and it is in the approach to the raw material, in search of the products of the farms surrounding Milan and of Slow Food presidia and in the respect (almost Nordic) with which they are processed. International influences flow through the dishes; in summer, you can eat on the porch overlooking the vegetable garden, but you have to fear mosquitoes. You can also order a 4-course tasting for € 34, € 6 for € 45. Sunday Roast at 38 € (nothing but brunch!). To feel on vacation.
Towpath Naviglio Pavese, 286

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