Tag: fish sauce

New-style summer slaw

I stole this pic off the internet. Sorry 🙁

In our house we reserve our most arch and nasty sneers for writers who cite writer’s block. We are pragmatists! If either of us displays any preciousness about the process of writing (although not about what happens to our words afterwards) we leap on each other like Veloceraptors.

If I ever see Giles dare to make a few notes about a forthcoming piece I will shriek in high falsetto “Dear Diary, today was a really good day. Saw Polly in the coffee shop, I think she really likes me. Did 40 press-ups today. My arms look amazing!” Then I have to stop because I am falling about laughing and cannot speak and then have a coughing fit.

If I ever dare to mention this blog, or the e-book spin-offs, in anything except totally derogatory terms, I get a machine-gun ribbing complete with flopping hand-gestures, questions about how much my last royalty cheque was for (ÂŁ39.50) and so on. 
It is not personal, we’re just not terribly nice people and both grew up in houses where mealtimes were a fight-to-the-death with put-downs and schools where everyone was foully mean to each other all the time. To be seen to be making an effort was the worst crime in the world. We’ve also both worked in newsrooms where you just sit down and write any old shit most days and just file it on time. In the end, when commissioning editors are casting around for writers, they mostly just want someone to file the fucking copy on time. When I started writing for magazines I could never get used to how long deadlines were. “Could you file it for
 hmmm
.” the comm ed would say “the end of next week?” and then pause, audibly grimacing at the short notice. I would shout with laughter, my pen still hovering over a  piece of paper, poised to write “4 PM”. 
So the idea that you don’t just sit down at a laptop and start writing, not stopping until you are finished is anathema to us. “Do you read each other’s stuff?” people say. Giles sends me his copy sometimes, just so that I know in advance what completely made-up things I will be appearing in The Times as saying. But I almost always only say “It’s brilliant! It’s the best thing I’ve ever read! They are so lucky to have it!” because if I don’t say that, he will snap “I don’t write by committee!!” and then throw a chair out of the window and burst into tears. 
I never show Giles my copy, ever, because he prints it out, reads it line by line with a ruler and gives it back to me covered in red scribble. “Serious problem with tenses,” it will always be will have saying. 
And yet
 and yet
 there are only so many words in the world, only so many things one has to say, only so many things one is inspired to cook. 
This is a roundabout way of saying that I have an e-book deadline for the end of July, which I am finding time-consuming. The new book is called “The Bad Mother” and I haven’t especially mentioned it because I am so used to not really discussing ongoing projects, because in our house you are so busy writing and writing and writing that you never stop to mention what you are writing because you are writing it and not just fucking talking about it. My favourite thing ever is when Giles opens the paper and there’s me in it with a massive pic and a huge headline and he goes “Wow!” and I think “BOSH” because he never saw it coming. Plus, if I tell him that I am expecting something in the paper and they don’t run it and I look even a tiny bit disappointed, Giles drives at 400mph to the editor’s house, shoulder-barges the front door and throttles them – and that’s one hell of a responsibility I tell you. 
Anyway although a lot of the posts here can be semi ripped-off for this “book” and are all very good memory-jogs, the fact is that I am having to write this “book” mostly from scratch. And I’ve never been ace at that – I’m brilliant at starting books, but not so terrific at finishing them. That’s why I’m a journalist – a sprinter – and not a novelist – a long-distance runner. But the plain fact is that I have to finish it and the only way to do it is to spend all spare writing time when I am not putting clean pants in the right place, making Kitty’s packed lunch, heaving Sam around the place or applying St Tropez Gradual Tan (Light/Medium), writing it and not, alas, this blog. 
But I feel sorry for you, because that’s the kind of patronising person you have decided to hitch your cart to, and so here is a recipe for a new kind of summer slaw. I actually totally forgot to take a photo of it, so I’m sorry about that. But it looks like a slaw just with no revolting claggy mayo or yoghurt dressing on the top.
I gave this for dinner to my friend AC and her husband Matt, who doesn’t eat much and never says he likes something if he doesn’t – and he called it “noteworthily good”, so you may proceed with confidence. 
New-style summer slaw
I have called this “new style” because I think it sounds very modern
for 4 as an accompaniment 
1/2 red cabbage
1/2 white cabbage
1 tsp grated onion (if you’ve never grated onion before, it comes out as a kind of gloop)
4 radishes
1 small fennel bulb
a handful combined of chopped mint and coriander – these are quite important so do go to some effort to source them
for the dressing
Chinese vinegar
juice of one lime
1/2 tablespoon (ish) grated fresh ginger
fish sauce
toasted sesame oil
1/2 clove garlic grated 
1 either slice with the grating attachment of your food processor or with a Japanese mandolin the cabbages, radishes and fennel bulb into a bowl. Add the grated onion and mix well. 
2 Take a small bowl and put in the lime juice, fresh ginger. Now add about a teaspoon each of the fish sauce, toasted sesame oil and Chinese vinegar and taste. Now add more of these sauces judiciously until you have something you like the flavour of. This is not because I cannot remember how much I put in of each! This is just because not everyone likes a dressing like this the same way. (It is because I cannot remember.) Anyway look you can’t really go wrong so just go for it. Pour the resulting dressing over the slaw and mix well. 
Now write your novel. 

Spicy Coconut & Calamari Salad, Formerly Know As Failed Squid Ceviche

There’s nothing quite as satisfying in the kitchen as snatching victory from the jaws of defeat. I was playing around with some squid ceviche preparations, and while it did “cook” in the acidic marinade, I really didn’t enjoy the texture. I actually hated it. 

I’m not sure if it needed more time, or more acid, but it wasn’t good. Not wanting to toss it, I decided to fry it up, and maybe hide it in some pasta, or something. I went with “or something,” and this cold, coconut-spiked salad was the result. I haven’t been this happy about a failed recipe in a long time.


Not only did it make a fantastic, sort of Thai-like salad, I can see this being quite versatile as well. It was very tasty hot, and would be great over rice with some of the cooked-down marinade. It would also be amazing over a big bowl of crunchy greens. Just don’t skip the toasted coconut, as it really does make the dish. I hope you give this delicious accident a try soon. Enjoy!


Ingredients for 4 Portions Spicy Coconut & Calamari Salad:
1 pound calamari, cleaned, cut into thin rings
1 small green Serrano pepper, minced
1 red Fresno pepper, sliced thin
2 tablespoons green onion
1 teaspoon palm sugar (aka coconut)
1 generous tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
1/4 cup lime juice
2 tablespoons Coconut milk
2 tbsp vegetable oil to cook calamari
– After calamari is marinated and cooked:
1 tsp Lime juice, or to taste
1 tbsp chopped green onions
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
2/3 cup toasted coconut flakes (unsweeted)

Asian baked salmon

There are a lot of things that you are supposed to enjoy when you are a grown-up, that I don’t really enjoy.

Like:
– getting tipsy at dinner parties and arguing about politics
– organising community events
– the theatre
OPERA AUGHGHGHGH
– Curb Your Enthusiasm
– The Sopranos
– oysters
– striking up conversations with check-out people at supermarkets
– reading the newspaper for fucking HOURS
– classical music
– gardening
– very long lunches where your bum goes to sleep

Fish is another one. And vegetables. If it wouldn’t have such invidious effects on my long-term health prospects, (by which I mean make me fat), I would just eat burgers and chips and pizza all the time.

But you’re not allowed to do that when you are a grown-up, you have to eat fish and vegetables – often at the same time. And a lot of people LIKE it and order it in RESTAURANTS!!!! I used to dread fish nights. I would buy it because if I didn’t my husband would give me a lecture about how we’re not allowed to eat burgers all the time and I’ll do anything to avoid a lecture.

I’m a bit scared of fish. It smells horrible even when reasonably fresh and stinks the house out when you cook it and it’s all slimy and sometimes there are BONES and urgh it’s all completely gross and designed, if you ask me, just to make yourself extra grateful that you’re having spag bol the next night.

And while I often get a craving for sushi, (I think I’m after the salt in the soy), quite often halfway through some sashimi I am filled with the fear that I might vomit.

Recently though, I have hit on a thing to do with salmon that I actually really genuinely look forward to.

What you do is you cover it in chilli, lime, soy, ginger, garlic and whatever other Asian things you have knocking about, wrap it in foil and then BAKE it for 12 minutes.

It doesn’t stink the house out and it isn’t slimy. You have it alongside spring greens sliced finely and stir-fried with some oyster sauce and it’s honestly really a very nice thing to have. It has really changed my mind about fish. And I’m incredibly stubborn about stuff like that.

So let’s go through that again for those of you who weren’t listening.

Asian baked salmon for 2

2 salmon fillets
knob of fresh ginger, roughly sliced
1 clove garlic
small bunch coriander(???)
1/2 a chilli, seeds in or out I don’t care
5 tbsp light soy sauce
1 tbsp fish sauce
1/4 tsp Chinese five spice

1 Put everything except the salmon fillets in a whizzer and whizz for a few minutes.

2 Put a piece of foil on a baking dish large enough to wrap over the salmon fillets in a loose parcel. Put on the salmon fillets. Pour over your whizzed slush marinade and leave for as long as you can – although it can be baked just how it is.

3 Bake in a 180 oven for 10-12 minutes

Please note: you do not have to use all of those ingedients – this is nice just with chilli and soy and ginger; everything else is just showing off, which is a grown-up thing that I do actually enjoy.

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