We are a country of sailors and therefore when it comes to fish, it is difficult that the first thought is not for sea bass, squid and everything that lives in salt water. Maybe that's why the trout it does not receive the consideration it deserves, starting from the purely economic one. Apart from that European (Salmo Trutta) which is still fished in streams – the Fario, the Marmorata or the Hybrid between the two subspecies – and increasingly rarely in lakes, the protagonist is the Iridea (Oncorhynchus Mykiss). Originally from North America, it arrived in Europe towards the end of the nineteenth century and essentially gave birth to aquaculture in which the Italians immediately showed themselves to be suited. The real development began in the 60s until the record growth of the late 90s, when it reached 50 thousand tons of iris, reared in tanks. Then a long crisis and the recovery, which started about ten years ago. Today it floats on stable values: 35 thousand tons per year – almost 30% of the entire turnover of national aquaculture – which make our country the main producer in the European Union, with an internal consumption of 20 thousand tons and a large export.

It is not the char

Important: never confuse trout with char, with all due respect for both: the second, native to North American lakes, belongs to the species of Salmonids and is clearly a close relative of the salmon, as confirmed by the elongated body, the adipose fin and the characteristic pink flesh. In Italy it is still found in Alpine rivers and lakes, cold water makes the difference, but like trout it is increasingly an aquaculture product. So much so that the IGP of the Salmerino del Trentino specifies the rules for raising it in tanks where water comes from springs, pools, streams or rivers. Not surprisingly, the most sensitive cooks are those who work in the province (Ghezzi, Gilmozzi, Fortunato …) or in nearby Alto Adige (Niederkofler, Wieser, Girtler, Laera …)

The pools of the North East

The trout temple is instead the North East, which supplies two thirds of the market, with two pluses: great rainfall and excellent springs to feed the tanks. There are companies that pursue absolute quality like FriulTrota, led in San Daniele del Friuli (UD) by Mauro Pighin, whose family started 40 years ago. "It is a very Italian product, we make about a ton a year between the various specialties, without any type of additive", he explains. "The goal is to give a different image, without prejudice, of a fish that does not fear comparison. to the most noble. Our Queen of San Daniele, in blind tests always surpasses the salmon … It is true that in a local paper, the trout loses the battle, but it will change with time . Another company, well known to chefs and gourmets, is Trout Gold in Preore (TN) which serves hundreds of restaurants and delis, even of the highest level. "Little by little, prejudices towards freshwater fish are falling and therefore trout is finding more space," says Daniele Leonardi, in charge of the business founded in 1988 by his parents. "We focus on absolute quality, starting from the perfection of farming up to derivative products such as eggs that chefs like more and more, bottarga or" ingots "refined with brandy. Trout looks promising .

Chic Milanese like it too

Meanwhile, it is also popular in the present, even in super chic Milan. Praise be given to a passionate fisherman and expert cook like Cesare Battisti: al Ratanà, since opening in 2009, has decided to constantly offer trout-based dishes, based on aquaculture and some (rare) prey from Lombardy lakes. «I now consume 80 kg a week, from ceviche or raw to the roasted version, cooked under butter for four hours, so that I eat it all. It is much more versatile than you normally think, ”explains Battisti. Also for the Tonola family, which manages the starred green Lantern in Villa di Chiavenna (Sondrio), trout is a dogma: in 2005 they built three tanks, transforming the historic breeding of the 60s: the specimens, already adults, come from Trentino, grow a few meters from the kitchen where they are prepared with class and passion. «The trout menu remains the most popular, says Antonio Tonola, the owner. «The thing that pleases me most is to note a greater curiosity about the product than in the past. After all, it has an exceptional meat .

The council of the Servants

From the border with Switzerland to the Reatino area: it can make you smile that one of the only two bistellati in the province, close to 60 years of activity, is in Rivodutri and is called The trout. Maurizio and Sandro Serva are among the masters of freshwater fish and over the years they have created about fifteen recipes dedicated to rainbow trout, purchased in part from an organic nursery in Borgo San Pietro and in part from a cooperative that fishes in the Campotosto lake or sometimes in the nearby streams. «An out of the ordinary product, with a fat part not to be lost in the preparation, explains Sandro. “There is no point in drying it on the grill. Better to cook it in a pan with very hot oil, one minute per side and strictly without skin: in this way it will remain crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside . Simplicity (and goodness) in power.