It is time to discover and rediscover enchanting places and territories, such as Riva del Garda and Cembra. And their vineyards over 800 meters above sea level
On the ancient Bastion of Riva del Garda (early 16th century), now also reachable by a panoramic lift, the mild air that rises from the lake blows. It is theHour of Garda, the wind that caresses the territories surrounding the lake basin, especially in the north in the province of Trentino. Therefore in these places there is a unique microclimate in northern Italy, which attracts tourism, especially foreigners for at least nine months a year.
The submerged wine
The Lake Garda it is a bit like the Mediterranean of Northern Europe. Here, in fact, in addition to olive trees and vines, we even find prickly pears. The local oil mills from year to year are distinguished by the production of increasingly competitive and above all tasty oil. An extremely varied palette of hints and notes on the palate. From sweet to spicy. So much so that it would be worth visiting these places even just to take a tour dedicated to this product, tastings in purity and combinations with fish from the lake and meat dishes.
And then there is the Ora del Garda that blows on the vineyards, which nourish themselves by sinking their roots on soils that are definitely suited for native and international vines. Even at considerable heights. Indeed, here we find some of the best expressions of local viticulture. Right next to the sixteenth-century Bastion we taste an unprecedented bubble, Brezza Riva Riserva 2016, Classic Method Trento Doc. A limited edition sparkling wine of Chardonnay in purity from vineyards located on the high Tennese area, around 800 meters above sea level. An extremely fresh and direct Pas Dosé, a visit card of the territory. A wine that from June 2020 for 12 months will mature on the lees even at a depth of 38 meters, on the bottom of Lake Garda. A daring operation of Riva del Garda winery, conducted together with a team of divers. An experiment for which in the first 12-month maturation period on the lees, 1216 bottles will be lulled by the lake currents, subjected to a natural remuage, protected from light, at a constant temperature and pressure. We'll see. On the contrary: to taste.
Wine at high altitudes
And from the depths of the lake we move to the heights of Cembra, the valley of the Red Gold, or rather of porphyry, a stone so loved by the emperors on the threshold of the Middle Ages. See the sculpture of the Tetrarchs in Venice between the Basilica of San Marco and the Porta della Carta: they seem carved in wine! Stone that distinguishes the soils on which vines are grown from which sometimes excellent wines are obtained. Here, too, the Ora del Garda expires, and the grapes enjoy considerable temperature variations between day and night. Of course, harvesting in these parts is not child's play. The vineyards are planted on often steep and steep walls. But the harvest here has always been a celebration that involves the entire community. Like when it comes time to harvest the grapes of Müller Thurgau of Vigna delle Forche, a handkerchief of vines at almost 900 meters above sea level.
We did a vertical tasting of this wine, vintages 2013, 2015 and 2017. And, surprisingly, the most beautiful, the best is the last.
But yet, Cembra – Mountain Cellar uncorks three more bottles of a cru di Pinot Noir, Saosent vineyard. Vintages 2011, 2015 and 2016. We are 560 meters above sea level. The vineyard is arranged like an amphitheater and the resulting wine is a chorus of aromas on the nose. And it conquers the table with its unmistakable personality, also the result of a wise work in the cellar. Pinot Nero Vigna Saosent ages in tonneaux and barriques for 12/18 months before bottling and continues its refinement in the bottle for at least one year.
Where to eat and sleep a weekend in Riva del Garda
Lunch overlooking the lake (from above). To the Bastion Lounge & Restaurant, not only you can enjoy a truly remarkable panorama, but you can taste light dishes with quality raw materials, accompanied by wines from the region. While in the evening the cuisine is decidedly more gourmet and refined, with excellent raw fish.
A dinner that recalls the territory at every course. The Leon d’Oro restaurant with the interiors in Austro-Hungarian style, it immediately stands out for its noble and informal welcome. As in all of Trentino, more or less, of course. But here the staff are more inclined to talk than elsewhere. Not useless chatter, but on the plates of the paper. Even the (notable) wine list. Two tasting routes: fish (fresh water is excellent) and meat.
After Dinner
In Riva del Garda there is also no shortage of cocktail bars for lovers of mixing. And for lovers of gin and its many variations, here is a place to pop in before the lullaby. The Pub dell’Oca. Express your preferences and leave the rest to the barman.
Where to sleep
Where to sleep well without spending staggering amounts and receive discreet service? L'Hotel Villa Miravalle is a residence that dates back to the 19th century, but with all the comforts of today. Including the location a stone's throw from the center of Riva del Garda.
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