Tag: wines

Sweet wines: for meditation, at the end of a meal or as a cocktail? – Italian Cuisine


A new Renaissance is being relived in the consumption of these wines, perhaps not in quantity, but the very way of consuming them is changing, enjoying them as a meditation or even in cocktails.


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Appreciated in all the European noble courts until the beginning of the twentieth century, sweet wines were the most drunk. In the last 15 years, consumption has suffered a seemingly unstoppable decline. The factors that have contributed are many: first of all the squeeze on the use of sugars (obviously they have a high sugar content), but also the rise in temperatures and the greater diffusion of heating in homes (they were wines also used in the past to "warm up" given the high alcohol content). At the base of this transformation there is above all a profound change of tastes in the use of wines, due to constant research in the oenological field, which has led to a greater variety and quality of products and which has ended up relegating the sweet ones to the moments of party or after a meal. The erosion of consumption in the Italian market is offset by exports, which instead is growing, reaching an average of 80% of total production. Fortunately, in recent years sweet wines are at the center of a new interest, which does not focus on quantities, but on how to use them and lives them rather as meditation wines or even as valuable ingredients for cocktail contemporaries.

What are the types of Italian sweet wines?
In the north-west, where they are born, we find Asti and Moscato d'Asti, in the north-east we find passito da Traminer and sweet wines from Friuli, such as Picolit. In the center, when we talk about sweet wine, we think above all of Vin Santo, in Tuscany, and passito wines, in Lazio. In the South and in the Islands, passito and fortified wines such as Marsala dominate. Sweet wines are usually tasted according to taste, that is in pairing with desserts or alternatively, alone, like wine at the end of the meal or, for those particularly fortified, for meditation. In recent years we have tried to rejuvenate these habits by including sweet wines in the cocktail menus, also to bring them closer to the world of young people. The first to promote this movement was Pellegrino Cellars with the one he called "Marsala Revolution".

The new life of Marsala in cocktails
Taking inspiration from this "revolutionary" wine, loved by Garibaldi, we tried to give new life to Marsala. "Each revolution aims to establish a different order, a contemporary, easy way of drinking, out of the ordinary, totally breaking with the one that remained in vogue for over a century until a few decades ago", he says. Benedetto Renda, director of Cantine Pellegrino. Old John, Bip Benjamin, Uncle Joseph, Horatio (names in honor of the great English entrepreneurs who sensed the commercial potential of Marsala in the nineteenth century and decreed its success) today have become a new line dedicated to mixology. These bottles want to tell the different styles of Marsala (Marsala Superiore, Marsala Superiore Riserva, Marsala Soleras or Vergine, Marsala Vergine Stravecchio or Riserva) to a young and less educated audience from the wine point of view. To complete the range there is also the Marsala Ambra Superiore 2012 Anita Garibaldi, dedicated to the woman who loved the revolutionary. From Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia grapes, grown in the hinterland of Marsala and Mazara del Vallo, intriguing for its intense amber color, it is a versatile wine (the "lightest" of the team, a Marsala Superiore, with 18 degrees of alcohol and 24 months of barrel aging), with pleasant notes of apricot and carob, and slight hints of thyme and black pepper. And let's not forget that this wine is also often used in cooking: here is the recipe for sweetbreads with Marsala.

195062 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2022/01/stravecchio-di-asiago-ubriaco-al-torcolato-maculan-496-1.jpg "width =" 210The Torcolato of Braganze, a micro production that is produced on one striss of hilly land of about twenty kilometers, between the rivers Astico and Brenta, in the territory of Braganze, in the Vicenza area. It is first mentioned in 1754 when explaining the production process: the Vespaiola grape, native to the area, is put in the form of "torcolato" or the bunches are left in withering, twisted and hung with a rope from the beams of the barn (mainly to save space and protect the precious berries from possible rodents). During this period the berries lose much of the water they contain, favoring a high concentration of sugars, before being "pressed”And left to ferment in small oak barrels. Since 1996 the Doc has been recognized but since time immemorial we find the Magnifica Fraglia (Confraternita) del Torcolato to preside over the correct procedure. Among the major producers of this micro production to date we find Fausto Maculan with his daughter Maria Vittoria.

195079 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2022/01/RAIS-BAGLIO-DI-PIANETTO-1.jpg "width =" 210Ra'is Essence of Baglio di Pianetto represents the history of a people. Already known at in the imperial court of Frederick II, Moscato has become the wine par excellence for celebrations in Sicily from generation to generation, closely linked to the island's pastry tradition, where the intensity of flavors takes the form of baroque delicacy. P.rproduced from Moscato grapes harvested on the estate of Contrada Baroni in Noto, in the lands of white limestone, this Moscato tells of the favorite wine of Count Paolo Marzotto from a very young age. The name is inspired by the ltuna fishermen's net, because it is said that Muscat captures the Sicilian sunlight and spreads it among its golden and coppery reflections.

195080 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2022/01/recioto_velluto.jpg "width =" 210The recioto della Valpolicella it is a wine with an ancient history, which dates back to Roman times. The vines used are indigenous, namely Corvina (in the measure from 45 to 95%), Rondinella (from 5 to 30%) and Corvinone (up to a maximum of 50%). In ancient times the drying came conducted on racks used for the cultivation of silkworm for about 3 months but today they are set up in suitable rooms (called fruit rooms), suitably ventilated. Finally it is aged for at least 3 years in small oak barrels. To this wine it is also dedicated a traditional and deeply felt festival, the Palio del Recioto which is traditionally held in the Easter period. One of the most historic wineries that produces it with all the trappings of the traditional method is the Meroni farm in Sant'Ambrogio di Valpolicella. It boasts among the ancestors of the Antonio Pesenti family, Italian economist and politician and member of the Constituent Assembly and a dedication, shown on the label, by the famous Veronese poet Berto Barbarani in a letter from 1943, where he appreciates this wine.

195081 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2022/01/benrye-2.jpg "width =" 210Among the heroic wines (i.e. produced in particularly adverse conditions and harvested exclusively by hand) one cannot but admire the tenacity of winemakers which produce the passito di Pantelleria. Among the most iconic labels with a strong allure, the Pantelleria Passito Ben Ryé 2016 Donnafugata, whichin Arabic it means "fwind chill". This is because, as the inhabitants of this impervious island like to say and which often suffers from severe droughts, the wind that blows between the grapes is a constant on the island. L'Author's label celebrates love, care and effort which is necessary to produce this wine on a unique and fascinating island.

January 2022
Camilla Rocca
Photo above of the Brembati Pastry Shop in Villa d'Almè (Bg)

Posted on 18/01/2022


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In San Patrignano today (also) wines are produced – Italian Cuisine

In San Patrignano today (also) wines are produced

These days there is a lot of talk about the Netflix series "Sanpa", dedicated to the founder of San Patrignano Vincenzo Muccioli. Do you know what today is one of the main activities of the first (and most famous) rehabilitation community for drug addicts? The production of wine. We talk about it here

2021 began in memory of San Patrignano, at least on television. For days, in fact, on social media we have talked about nothing but Sanpa – Lights and darkness of San Patrignano, a documentary television series available on Netflix and chronicling the epic of Vincenzo Muccioli, founder of the first community for the recovery of drug addicts. It was the year 1978 and the heroin drama, in Italy and around the world, overwhelmed more than one generation.

With archive images and a series of testimonies directed to those who lived the experience of San Patrignano up close, the docu-series traces the genesis of the community and its most controversial events, including judicial ones, until 1995, the year of the death of the famous founder. The recovery community, however, has continued its history and today it is still very active, albeit with methods and approaches different from those that are relived on the screen in these days.

One of the main activities to which San Patrignano was voted – and which justifies the fact that we are also talking about it here, on the de The Italian kitchen – and the wine production: in the series there is only a "taste" of it, but over time this has become a predominant activity, which, like all products marketed by San Patrignano, still contributes to the self-sufficiency of the community, which, since 1978, it hosts free of charge boys and girls in need of help.

We find ourselves, we remember, in the hills of Rimini, at an altitude of about 200 meters in the municipality of Coriano: not far from the Adriatic, therefore, but also a few kilometers from Mount Titano, where the Republic of San Marino stands. A fortunate geographical location and with a special microclimate, where the temperature changes given by the sea and the mountain enhance the organoleptic characteristics of the grapes and the breeze from the sea mitigates the high summer temperatures, giving the wine a marked mineral note.

At first they were alone Sangiovese and Trebbiano. The harvest was done by hand and the pressing with the feet, a press and five wooden barrels. In the mid-90s there was a turning point: the wine acquired body and value and new vineyards were planted with merlot grapes, cabernet sauvignon is cabernet franc. It reached 6,600 plants per hectare.

The Sangiovese, meanwhile, gained an identity all its own: softer, with sweeter tannins, and became in fact the Sangiovese from San Patrignano.

Today white, red and sparkling wines produced by the community are exported all over the world, from Quebec to Finland, from South Africa to Australia.

Grapes and wine will certainly play their part, but it is above all the children of San Patrignano who make all this special, because they are the ones who follow the entire production process, from the vineyards to bottling, with passion and dedication.

«Wine, explains the community, «becomes a means through which to express the desire to do and give one's best, to create something truly exceptional and unique. In short, a glass that gives joy to those who drink it as much, and perhaps more, to those who produce it.

10 Christmas appetizers and 10 paired wines – Italian Cuisine

10 Christmas appetizers and 10 paired wines

Bubbles, but not only, to open the dances of the most important lunch of the year! Delicious proposals and wine pairings to start the celebrations in the best possible way

There is very little left and you cannot waste even a minute to organize the Christmas lunch, made up of many delicacies, refined dishes and delicacies, from start to finish. We offer you ten appetizers Christmas, rich in taste and ingredients, some designed by great chefs, perfect for the most special day of all! And we also offer you the most suitable combinations with wine, for a truly impeccable service!

Capunet on a Raschera fondue by Andrea Ribaldone

300 g raw pork cup, 1 cabbage, Gavi docg white wine 2 glasses, 100 g grated parmesan. For the fondue: 200 g raschera, 100 ml milk, 100 ml cream, 1 egg yolk, salt, oil.

Browse the cabbage and cut out 4 beautiful leaves, cook the pork and the remaining cabbage in a pan with a little oil, all cut into large pieces. Add the Gavi and cook everything on a very low flame until it is soft. Season with salt. Beat the mixture with a whisk and add the grated Parmesan. Blanch the cabbage leaves in boiling water for a few minutes, then dry them and fill them with the stuffing. Close in a round shape. Reheat in a hot oven (180 °) for about 10 minutes. Separately, bring the cream and milk to the boil, add the diced raschera and cook over low heat for a few minutes. Remove from heat and blend by immersion adding the egg yolk. Serve the capunets hot on the fondue cream.

Gavi Classico, a dry wine with an intense straw yellow color and delicate hints of white flowers and white fruit. 100% Cortese grapes, in the mouth it is fresh, elegant and refined, extremely pleasant, with a medium-low alcohol content, as well as its structure, designed voluntarily to bring out the finesse of its flavors and aromas.

Potato, buffalo and black truffle pie

600 g potatoes, 2 whole eggs, 8 egg yolks, 1 medium sized hooked black truffle, 30 g of diced bacon, 6/8 slices of finely chopped bacon, 150 ml of fresh cream, breadcrumbs, salt, a knob of butter, pepper. For the buffalo fondue: 50 g buffalo mozzarella, 100 ml of fresh cream, 100 g of Parmesan cheese, fresh sprouts.

Wash the potatoes, holding one aside, peel and boil them. Put them immediately in the potato masher. In a robot, combine the mashed potatoes, the diced bacon browned in a little butter, the eggs, cream, salt, pepper and some truffle flakes. Work the mixture well and pour it into a pastry bag.
Finely slice the kept aside potato, blanch it for a minute in boiling salted water and, with the slices obtained, cover the bottom with round silicone molds. Fill the molds up to the edge with the potato and egg mixture, then bake in the oven at 70 ° by placing a bowl full of water in the oven. Once cooked, let them cool, remove the pies from the molds and wrap them individually with the slices of bacon. Bake again for 10 minutes at 180 degrees.
Prepare toasted breadcrumbs as the basis of the dishes and lay the freshly baked patties on top. Garnish with a spoonful of buffalo fondue, prepared by melting parmesan, cream and buffalo mozzarella in a pan. Ultimate with abundant grated hooked black truffle and a handful of mixed sprouts.

Carapace Montefalco Sagrantino Docg by Tenute Lunelli, a soft wine, aged in large wooden barrels. On the nose there are blackberry and blueberry jam, with notes of cherries in alcohol. In the mouth it is elegant, refined and persistent. Perfect for balancing the intense flavor of truffles and guanciale.

Rolls of tuna and salmon

400 g 00 flour, 120 g fresh salmon, 150 g tuna in oil, marjoram, dill, extra virgin olive oil, 4 tablespoons of ketchup sauce, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 4 tablespoons of fresh cream, 1 clove of garlic, salt .

Sift the flour into a bowl, then add the chopped marjoram, salt, 3 tablespoons of oil and mix. Knead until you get an elastic dough that you will wrap in a film and leave to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, put the drained tuna, ketchup sauce, garlic, lemon juice, salt, pepper in a mixer and blend until you have a smooth cream that you will leave aside. Take the salmon and chop it with a mixer along with salt, pepper, dill and cream. At this point, roll out the dough into two rectangles and stuff one with the tuna filling, the other with the salmon filling. Roll the dough into two long and narrow rolls, then seal them at the ends. Arrange the rolls in a baking tray covered with parchment paper, brush them with the remaining oil and bake them in a hot oven for 20 minutes, until the surface is golden. Wait until they have cooled down before slicing them and bringing them to the table.

Chardonnay Kellerei Bozen, a dry wine with a straw yellow color with golden reflections, fresh, with exotic hints of pineapple and mango, typical of Chardonnay. An elegant, linear wine, perfect to accompany this fish appetizer.

Liquid escarole salad, buffalo stracciatella, raw scampi, bread shavings and anchovies by Antonino Cannavacciuolo

1 head of escarole, extra virgin olive oil, salt, ice, 1 buffalo burrata, 5 dl of its milk cream, bread crumbs, 15 g desalted anchovies cleaned and preserved in oil, a sprig of thyme, marjoram and savory, 8 very fresh scampi.

Cut and wash the salad, blanch it for a few minutes in salted water, cool it in water and ice, drain it, keeping the cooling water and squeeze it. Blend it with the cooling water, emulsifying with plenty of extra virgin olive oil and adjusting with salt. Deprive the burrata from the stretched curd wrapping, obtaining only the heart. Blend it with the milk cream. Slice the bread, keeping the crumbs that form. Leaf through the aromatic herbs and keep the smaller leaves. Wash and clean the prawns, cutting them in two lengthwise. With a spoon, spread the stracciatella in a bowl. Cover it with the liquid salad, add the bread shavings, anchovies and aromatic herbs. Place a prawn cut in two on top of the liquid salad cream and serve.

Derthona Timorasso Zerba Antica by Cantine Volpi, a Limited Edition of 600 bottles, vintage 2016, with ad hoc label and numbered by hand. The wine has structure, flavor, minerality and a lot of persistence. This limited edition was also born with a charitable intent: to support the “Piccolo Cottolengo” of Tortona which in 2020 celebrated 80 years of activity.

Grilled scallops

16 scallops, 200 g taralli, 2 cloves of garlic, 200 g shelled and chopped pistachios, 2 shallots, extra virgin olive oil, salt.

First remove the coral from the scallops. Wash and dry them. In a mixer, coarsely chop the taralli. In a pan put a drizzle of oil, the finely chopped shallots, the peeled cloves of garlic and brown well. Once the shallots are golden brown, add the chopped taralli and cook for 5-6 minutes. Off the heat, add the chopped pistachios and mix well. Season with salt and cover all the scallops with this panure. Brown them in the oven at 180 degrees for 10 minutes, or until the surface is crisp. Serve them with a green salad.

This simple but very tasty appetizer goes well with Cavit's Altemasi Brut Millesimato Trento Doc, a straw yellow sparkling wine with greenish reflections, with a persistent foam and a fine perlage. A wine with a complex aroma, with notes of citrus and peach. In the mouth it is fresh and pleasant, perfect for balancing the fatness of the scallop.

Tartlets with goat cheese

6 decane pears, 50 g sugar, 3 cloves, 2 bay leaves, 1 piece of cinnamon, a little ginger, 2 eggs, 40 ml of fresh cream, 120 g soft goat's cheese, peanut oil, butter, salt and pepper. For the shortcrust pastry: 300 g flour, 150 g butter, 50 ml milk, 1 pinch of sugar, 1 pinch of salt. To accompany: 150 g spinach, 30 g toasted pine nuts, 30 g raisins, 1 small unripe pear, extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt, pepper.

Prepare the dough by making a fountain with the flour, add the butter, milk, sugar and salt. Start kneading and when you have a homogeneous mixture, wrap it in cling film and let it rest in the fridge for 30 minutes. Peel the pears leaving the stalk, put them in a pot and cover them halfway with water. Add the spices, sugar, sliced ​​ginger and bay leaf. Cover the pot, bring to a boil and cook gently for 30 minutes. Then drain the pears from the syrup and let them cool. Grease 6 molds of 10 cm in diameter each with butter. Roll out the dough and line the molds. Cover with a disc of baking paper, fill each with dry beans and cook at 180 degrees for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, shell the eggs in a bowl, add the cream and the chopped cheese. Remove the molds from the oven, remove the baking paper and the beans and cut the base of the pears by about 1 cm. Place one in each mold, along with the egg and cheese mixture. Bake at 180 degrees for 20 minutes. Prepare the side dish: rinse the raisins, peel the pear and cut it into slices. Mix the spinach with the pear, raisins and pine nuts and season with salt, pepper, oil and balsamic vinegar. Serve the tarts with the salad next to them.

Tinata di Monteverro, an intense red, made from Syrah and Grenache grapes. Decisive, rich in aromatic notes, but at the same time soft and elegant. The grapes come from one of the most suitable soils of the Maremma winery, around a centuries-old cork oak close to the scrub, of which the typical aromas of lavender, rosemary and thyme are found in the wine. The blend obtained from the two varieties Grenache and Syrah makes this wine complex and of great aromatic depth.

Salmon blinis and pecorino cream

180 g flour, 20 g sugar, 320 ml milk, 8 g brewer's yeast, 2 eggs, 60 g butter, a pinch of salt, 150 g sliced ​​smoked salmon, 200 goat's cheese spread, 10 g fresh dill, salt.

Put the flour in a bowl with the crumbled yeast, the sugar, a pinch of salt. Then add the milk warmed with the butter and start mixing. Now add the eggs one at a time and mix well to mix everything until you get a homogeneous batter. Let the mixture rise for 30 minutes in a warm place. Prepare the dill cream: put the spreadable fresh cheese in a bowl and add the finely chopped fresh dill. Mix until a homogeneous cream is obtained. Grease a pan with a little butter, pour a tablespoon of the mixture and cook on both sides, turning it gently. Cut the salmon slices in half, then roll them up on themselves. Spread a little cream cheese on each blinis and then lay the salmon slice on top and finish with a sprig of dill.

For this refined appetizer choose Merlettaie Offida Pecorino di Ciù Ciù, an intense wine, from Pecorino grapes, straw yellow in color, with an intense and persistent aroma of wild herbs and hawthorn flowers, with an intriguing vanilla impact given by the aging in cask .

Chicken dumplings and curry sauce

350 g of chicken breast, 1 clove of garlic, chives, mint, thyme, extra virgin olive oil, 6 filo pastry rectangles, sesame seeds, salt, pepper. For the curry sauce: 250 ml milk, 1 tablespoon potato starch, 1 spring onion, 1 red pepper, curry powder.

First, chop the chicken breast with a kitchen knife, collect it in a bowl together with the peeled garlic, the chopped chives, a few mint leaves and a few thyme leaves. Season with salt and a sprinkle of pepper. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rest for about 30 minutes. Prepare the sauce: finely slice the onion and fry it together with the chilli in a saucepan with a little oil. Add the spoonful of starch followed by the milk slowly, stirring with a whisk. Put on the heat and reduce, stirring with a wooden spoon. Meanwhile, add a generous splash of curry and salt. When the sauce leaves a veil on the spoon, turn off and let it cool. Take the filling, remove the large mint leaves and sauté the chicken in a pan over high heat for a couple of minutes. Switch off. Open the sheets of phyllo dough and brush them with oil. Overlap two at a time and cut them into strips 8-10 cm wide. Arrange a spoonful of filling in the lower left corner of the base of a strip and fold the phyllo over itself several times, forming repeated triangles, until the pastry is finished. Gradually arrange the triangles on a baking tray lined with parchment paper. Brush them with oil and sprinkle them with sesame seeds. Bake in a preheated convection oven at 180 ° C for about ten minutes or until golden brown. Serve the triangles with chicken with herbs and curry sauce piping hot with the sauce.

Vittorio Puiatti Riserva del Fondatore Metodo Classico, a sparkling wine made with 100% Pinot Nero grapes, with a delicate color, with elegant aromas of dried fruit and small pastries. Fine perlage, also excellent throughout the meal.

Russian salad with tuna sauce

3 potatoes, 3 carrots, 15 pickled gherkins, mayonnaise, 5 anchovy fillets, 125 g tuna in oil.

First, cook the potatoes and carrots. Once cooked, slice them into small pieces. Also cut the gherkins and put all the vegetables in a large bowl. Combine the mayonnaise, tuna and anchovies in the mixer. Once mixed with the mayonnaise, taste the cream obtained, if it is not sufficiently tasty, according to your taste, add some chopped anchovies. Add the mayonnaise to the vegetables and mix well until all the diced vegetables are completely blended with the sauce. Place in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours before serving. The longer the mayonnaise remains in the fridge, the more the vegetables are flavored and the result will be tasty. Serve the Russian salad on croutons or straight.

Prosecco Treviso Doc Brut Cantine Pasqua, a sparkling wine produced with 100% Glera grapes, coming from the province of Treviso. In the mouth it is lively, with hints of white fruit. Its freshness is perfect for balancing the fatness of the Russian salad.

Swordfish with exotic fruit and vegetables

300 g chopped sliced ​​swordfish, 1 small red onion, 1 sachet of saffron, 2 sprigs of parsley, 2 sprigs of mint, 1 lemon, 1 orange, 1 mango, 1 red pepper, 1 sheet of carasau bread, extra virgin olive oil, chilli, salt.

Wash the orange, dry it and remove half of the zest with a thin rigalimoni. Cut the swordfish into cubes and put it in a bowl with the lemon and orange juice, the leaves of a sprig of mint, a few leaves of parsley, a pinch of chilli, 2 tablespoons of oil and the saffron and let the fish flavor. in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Peel the onion, cut it into slices and transfer it to a bowl with cold water. Peel the mango and cut the pulp into cubes. Wash the pepper, peel it, remove seeds and filaments and cut it into very thin slices.
Mix the fish drained from the marinade with the pepper, the orange peel, a pinch of salt, 3 tablespoons of oil and the drained and dried onion and distribute it on the plates over the slices of chopped carasau bread. Add the diced mango and the remaining mint leaves and serve immediately.

Gianni Masciarelli Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Doc, from pure Trebbiano d’Abruzzo grapes, fermented in steel for a young and fresh wine, which tells the vine in the most genuine way possible. The nose releases aromas of crunchy apples and pears and a nice consistency of honey, while on the palate it is full, layered and savory.

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