There is not only the Gorgonzola; there are others cheeses with molds. Sharp in flavor or sweet in its flavor. Soft, melting or firmer and with a more penetrating smell: the Gorgonzola it has two faces, two shades of spiciness. It is one of the greatest cheeses blue-veined of the world, a treasure trove of technique and history. Recognized at European level since 1951, it is among the best known in Italy, among the most exported and among the most counterfeited. Not everyone loves him, as happens with things and people with a strong character, but his fans are on the rise. Even the compact and super-spicy type, called "two-paste" or "ancient", which is found more rarely and is preferred by gourmets, gathers new followers. This delight belongs to what we call in Italy blue-veined, cheeses that have green veins. Responsible for this "marbled" effect are the noble molds of Penicillum Glaucum, which are inserted in the processing to give the cheese its characteristic vein.
Gorgonzola was born, perhaps by chance, centuries ago: the legend he says of an enterprising innkeeper who found a batch of cheese with some mold in the cellar and decided to serve it anyway, especially when the customers were already well supplied with wine and therefore not too sober. According to the technicians, however, two curd milks were put together by mistake at different times, with a doughiness difficult to blend, which produced cracks where the whey stagnated and molded: and here are the greenish streaks, which have since been produced ad hoc.
All shades of green and blue
Whatever the case may be, Gorgonzola, obtained from cow's milk, takes its name from the town not far from Milan which was the stage of the autumn return of the herds from the mountain pastures. Its origin is Lombard Piedmontese. If the word blue cheese comes from parsley (erborin in Milanese) because of the green, abroad the cousins of Gorgonzola are called "Bleu"for the dominant color of their molds. So it happens for the Roquefort, the most famous French: sheep's milk, exquisite spiciness on a salty base. The Stilton, made with cow's milk, is the English champion of the category. Other French are the Bleu de Bresse, the Bleu d'Auvergne, the Bleu of the Upper Jura. Among the Germans, theEdelpilz, with a not too pronounced flavor and the Bergader, raw pasta and strong taste.
Among the Swiss, the Bellelay, fat, soft and delicate. The Straw, which is actually a gorgonzola. The most common blue is the Danish Danablu: full and decisive taste, streaked firm texture. Another quality Italian blue cheese is the cuneese Castelmagno. Very ancient, it is hard and made with cow's milk. The dough, which was crumbly at first, becomes compact, aromatic and tasty. The Moncenisio Blue, made with cow's milk with possible small doses of goat cheese, comes from the mountains between France and Piedmont and can be sweeter or spicier depending on the seasoning; that of Aosta, made with cow's milk, always has a strong taste.
Study the combinations
Is in the kitchen? Alone or with butter, milk, cream, mascarpone, the blue cheeses are a wonderful dressing gnocchi of potatoes, the polenta, the risotto and even a simple one pasta durum wheat. They look great with nuts, good with pear. Wonderful with other fresh cheeses on pizza dough, in savory pies and focaccias: crêpes, for example with Castelmagno, were traditional in the production area. We can use them for canapés and aperitif sauces. Since their flavor and character tend not to mix with other pronounced tastes, combinations must always be carefully treated.
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