A recipe that interprets the Milan of yesterday, today and tomorrow: nervetti as tradition, lobster like the beloved Catalana, and ceviche. Because Milan is increasingly international, and so is its cuisine. Word of the master Claudio Sadler
«I like to call my kitchen" modern in evolution "because I consider it a contribution to renewal. I don't like cooking only traditional dishes, I also want to give space to modernity because these two extremes, if expertly dosed, can regulate unique and innovative tastes while maintaining respect for tradition. I consider the roots of our local cuisine a starting point, but somehow I transgress the rules to obtain a more captivating result , so Claudio Sadler describes his own cuisine.
Claudio Sadler is one of the fathers of Milanese and Italian cuisine, since he opened his first restaurant in 1982, the Locanda Vecchia Pavia, in Pavia. He is the first to open "a chef's bistro" in Milan, writes books, takes care of training and in 2018 he was awarded the Ambrogino d'Oro, the highest honor given by the Municipality of Milan. Two restaurants, Sadler, the starred restaurant, and alongside the modern Quick'n’chic restaurant. Creative dishes that alternate quickly during the seasons, paper after paper, and traditional recipes in a restaurant.
One of the new dishes inspired by Milan, and deeply Milanese, is this ceviche: lobster and nerves. Lobster, like the Catalan lobster, one of the most loved dishes of the nineties, the typical nerves of the tradition and then the ceviche, contamination of an increasingly international city. Here is the recipe.
Cevice of lobster, green sauce and veils of veal nerves
Ingredients for 4 people
2 lobsters
100 g of nerves in a bowl
½ onion
1 fiolaro cabbage
250 g of potatoes
5 sprigs of chives
½ bunch of coriander
50 g of cream
50 cl of milk
Worcester sauce to taste
Soy sauce to taste
1 lime n
For the green sauce
200 g of parsley
2 slices of pan carrè
a spoonful of white vinegar
50 g of anchovy fillets in oil
25 g of extra virgin olive oil
50 g of pickled gherkins and spring onions
10 g of capers
5 g of coriander
Method
Cook the potatoes in a mixture of water, cream and milk, salt properly and once cooked pass them to the potato masher, then add the cream, the grated lime zest, the finely chopped chives, a little chilli and the worcester sauce. Put the mixture in a piping bag and keep warm.
Prepare a green sauce by putting the peeled parsley, coriander, anchovy fillets, bread soaked with white vinegar, spring onions, capers and pickled gherkins in the blender, add a little oil and blend until obtaining a creamy sauce.
Clean the lobsters by removing the carapace, cook the claws for 6 minutes in salted or steamed water, cool them in ice and water and then shell everything, keeping the pulp.
Blanch the tails in boiling water for 1 minute, then cool in water and ice, peel them, remove the gut and cut the flesh into cubes. Season the pulp with juice and grated lime zest, oil, chopped red pepper, a little soy sauce and worcesterer, mix and leave to marinate for a few minutes.
Bake a red onion in the oven at 200 ° for 30 minutes, then cool it and cut it into wedges. Alternatively, use it raw after slicing it and soaking it in cold water and salt.
Cook the fiolaro cabbage in boiling water and cool it in water and ice, then dry it.
Cut the prepared nerves into very thin slices
In the individual dishes arrange some small spikes of cream of potato, distribute the lobster pulp with the marinade juice, pour a little green sauce, the onion cut into wedges, a few coriander leaves, also arrange the claws cut into chunks, and finally cover with the veils of finely cut nerves to the slicer.
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