A historical trattoria that has seen a lot of history pass between its tables, sliding from generation to generation, to date, led by Alessia Battaglino
Trattoria it comes from french traiteur, referring to the person who "treats" or prepares the food to serve it cooked (from Latin tractare, handle, take care). Tavern has in itself the full concept of hospitality (from the Latin hospes) and indicates since ancient times a place to eat and often even sleep.
Once upon a time there was a train …
That of Battalion of Bra it is a story that begins in 1919 with a woman and with a woman he goes up to the present day. The founder is called Emma Berrino, born in 1884, and her whole life was marked by the rattling of trains on the rails: not only is she the daughter of a railway worker and she has married a stoker, Sebastiano Battaglino, but his restaurant is close to the station, if God wants, so that his most loyal customers are also employees of the railway tracks, in addition of course to people in transit. Everyone appreciates the traditional recipes prepared by that petite and shy woman with a stubborn, very Piedmontese care, who gets help from her two children, Carlo and Gigina.
The story: all from Battaglino
Sebastiano, for his part, passes casually from the boiler of the puffing locomotives to the stove and when the dark years of fascism as a good socialist arrive he refuses to join the party and is fired: so he takes off his railway uniform and wears the white chef apron, that will never take off again.
Colleagues remain loyal to him. "Where do you go to eat? But from Battaglino! " And if a traveler asks where to put his legs under the table, the answer is always the same: at Battaglino, isn't it?
In the thirties Emma and Sebastiano move and grow. They move in piazza Rome, just in front of the Bra station. It is a large house, with a farmyard embellished with a spectacular wisteria. The restaurant becomes the Battaglino restaurant "with accommodation, stable and garage". All this is very pleasing to the cadets and official students of the nearby military schools in the Cuneo area and even in Turin, who on Sunday, in free exit, go to Battaglino for lunch with the whole family.
The young Battaglino, Carlo and Gigina, have catering in the DNA: she will work with her parents until 1947, when she will marry a regular of the place and will open a restaurant of her own in Turin. Carlo, more adventurous, is passionate about opera, he volunteers for Abyssinia to forget very romantically a love he believes lost and only on his return, when he finally manages to crown his dream and marry his beloved, while putting on the ring on his finger he lets his apron fasten to his waist, while new winds of war begin to blow.
History on the plate
Bra intensely suffers that eventful period for the Cuneo area, barracks and military garrison area, occupied by the SS after the armistice of 8 September 1943 and bombed by the allies, and Battaglino continue to feed everyone, dominating the apprehension for partisan relatives.
When the war ends and normal life begins again, a table must be reserved for a new illustrious client. Is called Luigi Einaudi, was born less than thirty kilometers from Bra and in 1948 became the President of the republic. Sebastiano, more modestly, will have the knight's cross.
In the meantime, Carlo's children, Nino and Beppe, grow up, with the satisfaction of seeing the volcanic father also participate in Leave or double? It will be up to them to "double", on the death of their father, in 1974, and prove themselves up to past traditions, with the extraordinary wives, Elsa and Maria Teresa, who leave their external employment one after the other for the love of Battaglino.
A special territory
And after all, in Bra you can breathe this passion for catering: right there in 1989 a famous D0c Bravo gourmet, Carlìn Petrini, friend and assiduous customer of Battaglino, founded Slow Food, to "restore the right value to food, with respect of those who produce, in harmony with the environment and ecosystems, thanks to the knowledge of which territories and local traditions are custodians .
In 1996 Beppe remains only for the untimely death of Nino. When his wife Maria Teresa falls ill, their daughter Alessia, who graduated in Milan in 2002 and is following a completely different path of life, returns home to help out. It will never go away: the "call of the Battaglino" is too strong. Since 2010, she, Alessia Battaglino, has held the helm of the family business and led her to overcome the milestone of the century of history.
The founder's wisteria is always there, beautiful, transformed into modern dehors, to mark the seasons, the generations, to flourish every spring, to celebrate these first hundred years, to demonstrate the resilience of a territory, its people, its splendid women.
The president's recipe
When he stopped at the Battaglino passing through Bra, going towards his Dogliani residence with his wife Ida, Luigi Einaudi always ordered the same thing, his favorite dish: tajarin with butter and a chicken leg boiled from the boiled meat cart.
This is the recipe that Battaglino gives to readers of La Cucina italiana, while waiting to welcome them in person in Bra. In the meantime, from April, it also makes delivery!
Battaglino's Tajarin
Ingredients for 4 people
flour (semi-wholemeal), 400 g.
eggs, 5 (4 yolks, 1 whole)
water, ½ glass
Salt to taste. (a pinch)
Method
Mix everything together with the lukewarm water and work the dough carefully until you have a smooth and firm ball. Roll out the dough and let it dry for 15-20 minutes. Gently roll the pasta sheets and cut them into very thin strips, by machine or with a smooth blade knife.
They can be seasoned with ragù (perfect that of Bra sausage, made with 80% beef), for a tastier dish, but many love them simply with butter and sage.
Recommended wines in combination
For the Tajarin with ragù: Barolo di La Morra (preferably vintage 2011 or 2013).
For the Tajarin butter and sage: Roero
Battaglino restaurant
Piazza Roma, 18 – 12042 Bra (CN)
Tel: 0172 412509 – email: info@ristorantebattaglino.it
Also delivery
Text by Marina Migliavacca
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