Tag: capon

The perfect consommé (based on capon) for Eugenio Boer – Italian Cuisine

From one of the best exponents of neo-classicism, the recipe for preparing a great broth that enhances stuffed pasta and is also pleasant in the cup. The secret? Proper clarification

Not everything does broth, rather. One who agrees with us is definitely one Eugenio Boer, chef-patron of the Bu: r restaurant in Milan who has always had a passion for broth comme il faut even in previous experiences. “I was lucky: my grandmother did it carefully even when it wasn't Sunday and it made me happy. Never experienced the sensation of broth as something banal or hospital-like. I have always experienced it as a dish, enriched with pasta or rice. And I carried within the memory of the gesture , says the chef born in Rapallo, but with a Dutch surname. From good family habits to the profession, which he began at a very young age around Europe. With clear ideas when the gelling and deconstruction of the 2000s they seemed to relegate the classic broths – France and the East aside, with their centuries-old traditions – to culinary antiques. Instead, for five years, there has been a return to the topic.

Beware of impurities

«As we go more and more towards a light and natural cuisine, I think there is ample room for broths, as long as they are well prepared, continues the chef. “That's why I want the clear broths, crystalline aesthetically perfect and with a clean taste: makes the difference compared to a normal or poorly prepared preparation. Even during the service in the dining room, all the broths are served at the last to have the right temperature according to the accompaniment ". Boer puts theory into practice, starting with clarified broth, the consommé as the French call it: decidedly tasty and concentrated in aromas and nuances. He gave us the recipe: it is not complicated, but it requires attention ("you must always remove impurities during cooking") and the right time. But it's worth it, thinking about the advantage of stocking up on broth to freeze – ice bags are fine – for later use.

The Morozzo Capon

A broth that goes very well with stuffed pasta. We mention two, above average. The first, historical, behind the name (coincidentally) of Capon of Morozzo hides a miscellany of cappelletti in broth, which brings together the whole bird (for the record, the first Slow Food Presidium) and its ideal preparations under sheets of pasta. There are four fillings: the breast at low temperature, the thigh with the skin dried in cooking oil, the wings stewed with mushrooms and the Tuscan giblets with red wine, capers and anchovies. While the bones end up in a flavored broth (with anise, cognac and flavorings), clarified with the meat and beaded with extra virgin, which is poured from a teapot. Pure enjoyment.

An author's reinterpretation

Instead, the Boiled in its own broth: five cappelletti, each with a different filling of a specific cut of the boiled meat (biancostat, tongue, head, cotechino and hen) and covered with green pasta obtained with a cold extract of parsley. The cappelletti – dipped in capon broth – are seasoned with parsley oil, capers and anchovies, aimed at recalling the classic green sauce. Boer added a red ravioli made with tomato flour and peppers, with Cremona mustard inside. A greedy reinterpretation of the Italian tradition, which requires a high level hand like that of Boer. But the his broth is also the perfect companion to meat tortellini: this is proved by the success of the dish that is part of the (successful) delivery managed by the chef with his partner Carlotta Perilli. It must be said that in every city there are excellent pasta factories as in homes there is no shortage of Italians (or Italians) who know how to prepare stuffed pasta. The problem is the broth: so study the recipe.

Ingredients

For the broth
1 Morozzo capon, 3 carrots, 3 celery sticks, 3 onions, 8 Sawarak black peppercorns, 2 cloves, 5 juniper berries.

For clarification
500 g minced beef, 4 egg whites, 5 black Sawarak peppercorns, 2 cloves, 5 juniper berries, 4 cl of dried marsala, 4 cl of brandy, 100 g of carrot cut into mirepoix, 100 g of celery cut into mirepoix, 100 g of copper onion cut into mirepoix.

The recipe told by Boer

«After having washed all the vegetables well, cut the onions in half and roast them in a non-stick pan until they are toasted only on one side. Then the other vegetables provided for the broth are coarsely cut and the breasts of the capon are taken and set aside. The vegetables and the capon are placed cold in a large pot, covered with about 5 liters of water and ignited over a moderate flame. When it comes to a boil, the impurities are removed with a skimmer and the heat is reduced. After four hours of cooking, filter everything and cool it (preferably in a blast chiller) to eliminate any fat. In the meantime, the clarification is being prepared by combining all the ingredients required plus the minced capon breasts with a knife in a meatloaf. Once this is done, put the cooled broth and the mixture into a saucepan: light it over moderate heat, making sure to always mix so that the meatloaf does not stick to the bottom of the pot. When the broth is about to come to a boil and the mixture has hardened on the surface (it must never break) with a ladle make a hole in the center so that it can simmer, slowly venting and taking an intense amber color. Turn off the heat, waiting for the solid mixture to settle on the bottom and filter gently, always without breaking the meatloaf. Remember to adjust each liter of clarified broth with 8 g of salt and that when it is heated – after defrosting it – it must never come to a boil .

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The Christmas triad: capon, lamb and capitone – Italian Cuisine

Three symbols of traditional cuisine. Three dishes that express regional diversity on the festive table. History, typical recipes and visions of three great chefs who love them

For those who consider tradition an indisputable value, there are foods that cannot be missing on special occasions. Three of these are protagonists on the Christmas tables – if the hosts intend to follow the immortal rules – because they deeply represent the cultural identity of the place of origin, have an important history and are particularly enjoyable. We are talking about the capon, oflamb he was born in capitone: simplifying they are the North, the Center and the South of the compass of taste, with their respective capitals Milan, Rome and Naples.

I 'quater capun'

Let's start from capon, a farmyard animal widespread in northern Italy and part of central Italy: the tradition on the Christmas table dates back to the Middle Ages, when the capon broth was consumed during the Christmas holidays, also linked to the ritual celebrations of the winter solstice. In Milan, in particular, raising 'quater capun' (four capons) in view of Christmas represented a deeply rooted tradition, witnessed even in the pages of Betrothed of Alessandro Manzoni. There must have been four in all: one for Sant'Ambrogio, one for Christmas, one for New Year's and one for Epiphany. The classic recipe of Stuffed capon, involves the use of minced veal, or sausage, stale bread and milk, thus creating a mixture that is flavored with pepper, nutmeg, rosemary, garlic, sage and parsley, and then inserted into the capon for the filling. Once stuffed, the capon is closed using needle and thread. For a good omen, tradition also has it that the capon is served on the table garnished with pomegranate grains, one of the oldest symbols wishing fertility and well-being.

Eugenio Boer's broth

"The good capon, in particular that of Morozzo which is a Slow Food Presidium, has a well-defined flavor and offers a superb broth", explains chef Eugenio Boer, at the helm of the Milanese restaurant that bears his name. «For those who prepare it stuffed, I recommend not overcooking it because it is white meat. The filling should include the entrails of the capon, bread softened in milk and odors. With the bones you can make a sauce to accompany it . Boer interpreted the capon making it a signature dish: an ingenious miscellany of cappelletti in broth (of capon, of course), which combines the ideal preparations for animal meat within the pasta. There are four fillings: the breast at low temperature, the thigh with the skin dried in cooking oil, the wings stewed with mushrooms and the Tuscan giblets with red wine, capers and anchovies.

From baculum to lamb

In Rome, abbacchio is a culinary synonym for Christmas (but it is also prepared for Easter). This term – which comes from the Latin baculum, or the stick to which the young sheep were tied – indicates the still young butchered lamb, and a particularly tender and tasty type of meat. The more elaborate version, on the other hand, involves cooking the floured and browned pieces of leg in a pan, to which is added chopped sage and garlic and then wine mixed with vinegar. Then, the meat is covered with boiling water and cooked in the oven. To prepare lamb scottadito, served with potatoes, the lamb chops are grilled, anointed with lard and seasoned with salt and pepper.

Fried is very good

Then it exists a fried version of the lamb chops, which are first breaded in breadcrumbs and egg, to then be fried in oil. "Because lamb, even good, remains democratic and inexpensive food. The secret is to clean them well, beat them lightly, bread them with egg and breadcrumbs, cook them in a little extra virgin olive oil, browning and not frying ", advises Riccardo Di Giacinto. The chef-patron of All’Oro Restaurant is in love with lamb, interpreted in a hundred recipes as one – very good – where he prepares it "al verde", that is, with green sauce, bread with herbs, zucchini in scapece and green tea sauce

The capitone is also in the Smorfia

In the Christmas Eve dinner in Naples – and in many areas of the South – the protagonist is the capitone (from Latin caput, head) or the female eel, represented by the number 32 in the famous Neapolitan grimace: it is characterized by a head and body size greater than that of the male eel, and it is possible to find it in both fresh and salt waters, since it usually goes up rivers. The origin of this dish dates back to ancient times. Eating the capitone – whose appearance closely resembles that of the snake, symbol of Evil – coincides in a symbolic act of good omen that associates the elimination from Evil with the birth of Christ. According to tradition, the capitone must be purchased alive on December 23rd, a period in which the city's fishmongers offer the spectacle of these fishes splashing around in large blue tanks. It can then be cooked the following day, maintaining its freshness until the last.

The passion of Gennarino Esposito

In the Neapolitan culinary tradition, the capitone has a versatile role. It can accompany the cod in the fried part or play the main role after the first courses. "Sliced and roasted, it is always good," says the chef Gennaro Esposito. "The extra touch is given by the laurel. The leftover capitone can be used in the famous reinforcement salad, which is one of the classics of Neapolitan cuisine . Sure, the capitone is essentially eaten fried. But preparing it is less simple than you think. "It is important that the pieces of eel, thoroughly cleaned and bloodless, are kept at room temperature one hour before frying. Which must be very careful, made slowly and in abundant extra virgin olive oil, otherwise the crunchiness remains a dream concludes the chef of the Torre del Saracino two-star restaurant in Vico Equense. In case it advances, then, it is possible to transform it into capitone alla scapece. It is a system used by Neapolitan cuisine to preserve fish, but also vegetables, after frying. The dish is made by marinating the capitone in extra virgin olive oil, vinegar, garlic and mint. Yummy even so.

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Capon Supreme by Giuseppe Verdi: recipe for Buon Ricordo – Italian Cuisine

From the lands of Polesine Parmense, one of the symbolic dishes of the Buon Ricordo restaurants, that of Massimo Spigaroli: a tribute to Giuseppe Verdi and an ode to the capon

The restaurant of the Spigaroli brothers, Massimo and Luciano, was born as a tavern at the landing place of a ferry on the embankment of the river Po, in the Parma lowlands, and even today that has become a star-studded restaurant it somehow preserves its atmosphere. "In Parma it is difficult to live," said the Duchess Maria Luigia, "provided you know how to give reason to the interlocutor in a musical or gastronomic discussion". In these parts, in fact, all are foodies and musicophiles in their own way, if only because Busseto is a stone's throw away and Giuseppe Verdi is considered first of all a fellow villager. It is no coincidence that the Buon Ricordo plate of the house, Capon Supreme by Giuseppe Verdi, is a tribute to the great composer, who despite the worldwide fame has always personally managed the family farm. In the extraordinary food scenario of Emilia, these lands on the lower border between Parma and Piacenza are the home of the noblest salami, the culatello di Zibello, which reigns supreme over a varied court of other cured meats – Parma ham, cooked shoulder of San Second, staple, coppa, pancetta – and then the salami: gentile, cresponetto, mariola, strolghino … The Spigaroli themselves breed pigs of the ancient Black Parmigiana breed, of Spanish ancestry, and produce internationally renowned cured meats, destined for big names of catering, as can be seen from the visit to the basement of the Corte Pallavicina, a stone's throw from Cavallino Bianco, where the precious culatelli season impeccably, according to those concerned, thanks to the Po valley fog. But that's not all, because every type of vegetable and fruit comes from the farm, as well as white beef from the Po valley, chickens and ducks, geese that flock in meadows … As for wines, it occurs a singular separation between hills and plains, because if the best-known productions come from the first Apennines in the Bassa, we discover the use of accompanying local salami with Malvasia, a white in a rough version, as with Fortana, a red equally prone to sparkling.

A waltz menu

Scrolling through the calendar of the Cavallino Bianco is like jumping into a round of brilliant Verdi waltzes. Each season has its events, nicely declined to the gerund: the first mention belongs to the winter appointment with Maialando, dedicated to meats and sausages that are the pride of the company, but similar events are dedicated to the snail, the river fish, the frog , duck, grilled, cold cuts, pumpkin and goose. In short, a tour de force with a review that then summarizes it, Recalling, gastronomic elegy of the past.

Capon Supreme by Giuseppe Verdi: the specialty of Buon Ricordo

These are the lands of Giuseppe Verdi: in Busseto we visit the places dear to the master, and then we move to Polesine Parmense, on the banks of the Po, to the Spigaroli brothers, the most suitable people to reveal their flavors and secrets. Having said that, we understand the proposal of this suprême, a specialty of French cuisine discovered by Verdi at the table of large hotels and re-proposed on special occasions also in the villa of Sant’Agata. The big capon, the capon, not plus ultra of white meat, honored by the truffle, white or black depending on the season, undiscovered richness of the Bassa. The dish requires a certain amount of chicken sauce to prepare in advance: take the leftovers from the breasts or whatever and brown them with chopped aromatic vegetables, then wet with broth and let boil for three to four hours; once filtered, what is found is the base which can be used as a base for the sauce of the supreme. A concentrate of meat will avoid this preliminary, but the difference will be very evident.

Ingredients for 6 people

6 local capon breasts
50 g of chopped leek white or black truffle
1 dl of Champagne
100 g of chicken sauce
100 g of butter
50 g of flour

For the flan
300 g of boiled zucchini
1⁄2 liter of milk
80 g of white flour
50 g of butter
100 g of grated Parmesan cheese
3 eggs
pepper

Method

Melt the butter in a saucepan and brown the leek; flour the capon breasts and add them on the fire; when they have browned, add the champagne, let it evaporate and add the chicken sauce, then put everything in the oven for a quarter of an hour. Remove the breasts from the saucepan and put it back on the fire to reduce the cooking bottom by one third; add part of the sliced truffle. Cut the breast into transverse slices, arranging them in a row on the plate, slightly overlapping; evenly distribute the sauce obtained and complete with a few slices of truffle.

Serve with a small courgette flan prepared in this way: use milk, flour and butter for a béchamel, to which mix the grated cheese, eggs and courgettes, which you have previously cut into cubes and cooked in butter or oil. Pour the mixture into buttered or non-stick single-portion molds, to be put in the oven for cooking in a bain-marie at 130 degrees.

Recommended wine: Gutturnio dei Colli Piacentini Doc lively