Journey through the golden triangle of Sicilian baroque to discover Scicli. Cannoli, granita and cucciddati: addresses for foodies in the UNESCO heritage city made famous by Commissioner Montalbano
The summer is just around the corner and after months of confinement the desire to travel and rediscover Italy has returned again. According to experts' estimates, it will be a summer of proximity, with a slow pace, which will see villages, small towns and itineraries less traveled by mass tourism, especially from Southern Italy. We then head to south-eastern Sicily to discover food and wine Scicli, one of the jewel cities of the Sicilian Baroque.
Located on the Hyblean plateau, a few kilometers from the sea, to reach it you have to cross the rough and sweet countryside of the province of Ragusa, with the labyrinth of white dry stone walls which leads to the town, made famous by the successful television series Commissioner Montalbano.
Scicli was one of the cities most affected by the terrible earthquake of 1693. In the same year, the inhabitants did not lose heart and from the rubble and blood of that natural catastrophe and dedicated themselves to the reconstruction, which lasted for three centuries. The architectural style mixes forms of the Late Baroque, the dominant culture in the eighteenth century, with buildings in style rococo, liberty and neoclassical built between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.
With Catania, Caltagirone, Militello, Modica, Ragusa Ibla, Noto and Palazzolo Acreide, Scicli was recognized in 2002 by Unesco as world Heritage for its extraordinary artistic and urban context, and in particular for via Mormina Penna, the scenic street of the historic center from which our food tour in the "lace city".
A few steps from the Town Hall, the office of the commissioner Montalbano of the TV, there is the Butcher Found managed by Franco is Salvina together with the son Alex. An unmissable stop for real foodies who will be able to taste some of the ancient recipes of the Sciclitana tradition like the cucciddatu scaniatu (donut of bread), a mixture of lard and ragusano cheese enriched with sausage and ricotta. The peculiarity lies in the fact that Salvina uses Russello flour (ancient native wheat), mother yeast and lard prepared directly from the butcher shop. Another specialty is the hard bread (the house bread of Scicli) that the inhabitants call the pistolu for its curious elongated shape.
Via Nazionale 24 – Scicli
Opening hours: 8/13: 30 – 16: 30/20: 30 every day (closed on Sunday)
Nivera – the ice cream of nature
Elizabeth and Sofia they are two true artisans of taste. Their delicious restaurant is indicated in the main guides for the delicious ones ice cream, sorbets and slushes, considered among the best in Sicily. The manufacturing process is strictly handmade and in the kitchen hydrogenated fats, preservatives, artificial flavors and dyes are banned. Tastes vary according to seasonality and the raw materials used enhance the short supply chain of virtuous Sicilian producers: Pizzola di Avola almond, Ragusana ricotta, Nebrodi hazelnuts, Etna snuff peach, Maletto strawberry, Ispica sesame and Syracuse lemons .
Via Francesco Mormina Penna 14 – Scicli
Opening times: always open from June to October
Cannolia, the No. 1 hot cannolo in Sicily
Among the new openings we recommend Cannolia, a craft pastry shop inaugurated last June 13 in via San Bartolomeo, a few steps from the church of the same name which houses a fine wooden nativity scene. It is an original format, entirely dedicated to the sweet symbol of Sicily, whose novelty lies in the new way of tasting it: the wafer is fried on the spot and the customer can choose from seven different variants of cream for the filling. The cannolo is then served hot and crispy in just three minutes. The idea was born from an old family recipe book found by Davide Roccasalva, young pastry chef from the area, particularly attentive to the raw materials used (ancient grains for the waffle and no processed seeds, additives and preservatives in the preparation) and frying, a real secret for the success of this dessert (the cannoli are fried at a temperature 175 degrees in high oleic sunflower oil enriched with vitamins and antioxidants).
Via San Bartolomeo 10 – Scicli
Opening hours: 9/13 – 16/21 every day (closed on Sunday)
Where to sleep
Scicli Albergo Diffuso
A formula of widespread hospitality to live an authentic and unconventional experience, but with all the comforts of a hotel. The independent rooms and apartments are all located in the historic heart of Scicli while the reception with the breakfast room is located in the central Via Mormina Penna.
Ancient Cartìa Pharmacy
Founded in 1902, the Cartìa Pharmacy still preserves intact jars with natural essences, ampoules, flasks, scales and an ancient cash register on the shelves. For fans of the TV series, this historic site is one of the "places of Montalbano".
Via Mormina Penna 24 – Scicli
For guided tours contact the cultural association Tanit Scicli at telephone number 338 8614973
Last testimony of an aristocratic-bourgeois world, this palace still retains the original furnishings. Once you have crossed the entrance threshold on via Mormina Penna, you go up the staircase to immerse yourself in the magical Catardardian atmosphere.
Via Francesco Mormina Penna 53 – Scicli
For guided tours contact the telephone number 340 4756053
Lunch by the sea
For a sea view lunch, go to Sampieri, a seaside village in the municipality of Scicli, just a ten minute drive from the historic center. In the long golden sandy beach you will find the PataPata, good restaurant with deckchair and umbrella rental service. The ideal place for a regenerating bath in the crystal clear waters of the Mediterranean.
Via Miramare – Sampieri
Visit to the cellar
The winery of Massimo Padova it is located in Ispica and produces one of the best oenological expressions of Nero d’Avola and Moscato di Noto, the two typical vines of the area. Among the wines to try the bubbles of the new classic method. Wine tourism activities started again in June. For enthusiasts there are three wine suite surrounded by vineyards, all with in-room tasting cellar.
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