"I love philosophy on which the association of the Jeunes Restaurateurs is based, "he says Manfred Kofler, 36-year-old chef from South Tyrol, heir and innovator, together to his brother Stefan, from the former family trattoria. "We JRE are all young entrepreneurs looking for solutions to equal problems
and meanwhile they share and make talent grow and passion ". Today his goal is also to be able to find a better balance between high quality cuisine and daily commitment, given that the restaurant, also open for lunch with a bistro formula, absorbs it 16 hours a day.
"I'm Italian in the belly," says Manfred Kofler with a big smile. Named and native German speaker, he was born in the hills surrounding Merano. He is therefore Italian, although his family culture and years of experience in restaurants in Austria and Switzerland have taught him to work with German rigor, so that you will never see a dish less than perfect coming out of his kitchen.
Being "fifty fifty" (its the definition) in the last two years has convinced the Michelin guide inspectors to attribute it to the coveted star, ensuring that they are no longer the only ones to reach it on the slope of the Spronser Rötelspitze overlooking Merano. gourmet with an explorer spirit, but lovers of gastronomic tourism from afar: Americas, Scandinavia, Russia. To welcome them, the culinary philosophy that Manfred has called "Alps to Sea", meaning that the mountains are the origin but not everything is exhausted in them.
"My territory starts from Brenner and ends in Catania," he explains, "and to do without parmesan, buffalo, extra virgin olive oil or Mediterranean fish, or maybe a good Tuscan wine, would be an unbearable renunciation". Added to this is the importance of inspiration, which can sometimes come to him from fashion, photography, even design, so it is precisely the periods of vacation along the boot that feed him with the best ideas.
"In the end the kitchen itself must be a journey," concludes this chef who loves our country without having accents and proves it by enticing guests with foie gras with golden apple and Bronte pistachio; potato buns with porcini mushrooms and Sicilian red prawn; snails with Jerusalem artichokes and lard of Colonnata. Without letting the deer in the herb crust be on the menu, it is a very well-known and completely autochthonous dish.
Stefan and Manfred Kofler, respectively director-sommelier and chef, in their restaurant Culinaria im Farmerkreuz (via Aslago 105, Tirolo, tel. 0473 923508), equipped with a large panoramic terrace (photo on the side). Under their guidance, the restaurant has been transformed from the rustic inn of the parents into an increasingly gourmet, modern and elegant address. In the kitchen, in addition to Manfred, two other chefs work and the covers, to ensure high quality and service, never exceed 25.
on Sale & Pepe in April 2019
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