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Blue water, clear water … also for boiling and frying – Italian Cuisine

"Water that does not expect … water that breaks the mountain … water that has made evening and now retires" sang De Andrè. Water to quench their thirst, to purify themselves and, finally, to cook, the mother of all the raw materials that, nevertheless, does not always receive the attention it deserves. It all starts from there.

THE'attention to drinking water it starts to be very tall and is full of waters of all kinds. But when it comes to make a batter, stretch a broth or use it to boil so here is that the water becomes unique and generic, as if it were the same thing. Mind you, those in the trade obviously know how important its majesty is to water, but information on the ideal water for cooking has not yet been sufficiently disclosed.

In steaming, for example, quality water is essential since the undesirable elements present in the tap water (flavors, odors, limestone …) are transferred and absorbed by food, while in the boiled cooking with refined water means that the meat fibers become softer, tastier and more digestible. Even the water with which vegetables are washed is essential and must be filtered (possibly).

173014Last but not least sometimes we need bubbles, capable of guaranteeing perfect fries: the recipe for a light and delicate but at the same time voluminous batter seems to be water at the maximum gassing and at a degree of temperature.

And yet in a society that pays attention to the quality of raw materials, zero km, biological, biodynamic and healthy food, there is not (not always at least) due care towards what is the most important ingredient, the primigenial. Not to mention that sometimes it is even a protagonist ingredient, like water cake. And when it is not, it seems to contribute not just to the yield of a recipe. True or not anyone who has heard what is said about the focaccia di Recco or the Neapolitan pizza. Or even on mayonnaise. In short, there are rumors that the secret lies in the water. Just an addition, as long as it's quality, and it makes the difference.

173017Let's start by saying that the ideal water for cooking must be crystalline and poor in salts, but above all he must know how to play an ancillary role, knowing that he is not a prima donna but also knowing that he is the so-called conditio sine qua non; Its task is difficult because it must enhance itself by remaining neutral, without removing or adding flavor. Instead, it must exercise the discreet and balanced task of enhancing the natural taste of the ingredients, without being the protagonist. In addition to the organoleptic aspect of the water, we therefore need the correct temperature and the so-called carbonation perlage. Remember then that sometimes the trick is in the water that would otherwise be thrown. An example for everyone? Artichoke water.

Emanuela Di Pasqua,
April 2019


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