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Neapolitan ragout, slow cooking for strong flavors – Italian Cuisine

Neapolitan ragout, slow cooking for strong flavors


As one of the most beautiful love stories, even that of Neapolitan ragù it starts right in the kitchen, more precisely on a Sunday morning, very early. We are in Italy, in a Neapolitan cuisine, between the scent of food and every delicacy! Yes, that's how it starts, by finely slicing the onion and dipping it into a saucepan with a drizzle of oil until it wilts. Then add the various cuts of meat, the red wine to blend, the tomato sauce and cook very slowly. Yes, for this type of sauce you need intangible ingredients: the weather and the patience.

A Neapolitan tradition
The Neapolitan ragù it is the forerunner for all other dual-use sauces or ragu. Yes, as you well know, once ready, the Neapolitan ragù sauce is used to season a good dish of pasta (better if Neapolitan ziti or broken mezzani) and the meat is served as a main course. Soft chops, sausages and steak cooked in the sauce for 3 hours or more over low heat … the goodness? Its delicacy has also won over two song writers Neapolitan, Eduardo De Filippo who sings its preparation in Saturday, Sunday and Monday And Giuseppe Marotta in the famous The gold of Naples.

The secret is to let the meat sauce "pippiare"
A Campania term that wants to emphasize the dessert sound (don't call it noise!) of the boiling sauce. A slow cooking, to be checked from time to time to make sure that the sauce is not too dry, to turn gently and taste to make sure that it is not lacking in salt, that it is perfect. Yes, because the Neapolitan ragù, like all those that have a double use, have a great one responsibility: they must be tasty to the right point to season the pasta and the meat must be cooked to perfection, soft and juicy.

The preparation of the ragù Neapolitan
A sauce rich in nuances, tradition and passion. Here are the doses for 6 people: 100 g of raw ham fillets, 50 g of salted bacon strips, 1.5 kg of rump or leg of pork, 50 g of lard, 400 g of onions, 2 cloves of garlic, 50 g of bacon, 1 dl of oil, 2,5 dl of dry red wine, 400 g of tomato paste (or 200 g of concentrate and 100 of tomato sauce).

Get ready to lard: take 100 g of raw ham and 50 of salted bacon strips to which you will have to add ground pepper and chopped parsley. Now lard 1.5 kg of meat with raw ham and bacon and tie it to keep it in shape.

Saute: finely chop 50 g of lard, 400 g of onions, 2 cloves of garlic, 50 g of bacon, put the mince in a saucepan with 1 dl of oil and fry over low heat. As soon as it starts to sizzle add the meat, close the lid and brown it on all sides, turning it from time to time.

A secret: browning the meat on all sides allows you to seal all the pores so that it does not lose all its liquids during cooking and that it can remain soft and juicy.

When the onions are golden brown, open the lid and add little by little 2.5 dl of dry red wine. Leave uncovered until the wine evaporates (this will take about 2 hours) and the meat will continue to cook in its own fat. Carry on slightly raising the fire.

At this point, add 2 tablespoons of double tomato concentrate, do it fry and keep stirring until it becomes very dark. Be careful not to let it burn! Subsequently, repeat the operation until you have added all the tomato paste. Cook gently for about 3 hours, taking care to mix and turn the meat to let it flavor.

In the end, add the tomato sauce, a pinch of salt and a ladle of water and cook uncovered for about an hour then, gently remove the meat and leave it aside. Continue by covering the pot and let peppiare for an hour and a half until the sauce has thickened.

Now taste, season with salt and put the meat back in the saucepan, bring back to a boil and start cooking the pasta!

What if the sauce is too much? It doesn't happen, but if it happens … Pour the still very hot sauce of the Neapolitan ragù in a glass jar, close it hermetically and let it cool upside down, as if it were a preserve.

October 2021
Giulia Ferrari

Follow the taste, at the supermarket choose the Slow Food Selection – Italian Cuisine


The Sigma, Sisa and Coal supermarkets take you to discover the most authentic territories, where relationships are more transparent and communities more united. With many good and genuine products selected together with Slow Food Italy

Whether you live in a big city or in a provincial town, there is only one way in which everyone would like to shop: by finding typical and authentic Italian products, with a value that goes beyond taste. To actively promote social responsibility, the "Taste & Passion Slow food Italy selection"Of the supermarkets Sigma, Sisa and Coal, a" four-handed "project with which to research the small and large gastronomic excellences hidden in our territories, select only local raw materials of the highest quality, collaborate with the most representative producers, respectful of ancient manufacturing processes that embody the noblest Italian artisan production. A good trip to our country that today can be done without leaving home, choosing from the many products of the Gusto & Passione line in your trusted supermarket Sigma, Sisa or Coal.

Four projects to explore the best of Italian food and wine products with the guarantee of Slow Food: craft beers, wines, cold cuts and pastries. Where to start? Discover them all on www.gustoepassione.info

Biscotti factory Grondona: canestrelli and more

With 200 years of history behind it, this company embodies the Genoese confectionery tradition. Able to innovate while respecting its past, its Gusto & Passione Selezione Slow Food Italia sweets and biscuits are prepared with natural and refined ingredients. Only precious mother yeast, Baci di Dama with tonda gentile hazelnuts from Piedmont and pure dark chocolate, traditional Pandolce with raisins, candied fruit and pine nuts, Biscotto della Salute and Biscotto Legaccio, delicate, light and nourishing. And then the Canestrelli, with the crispness and flavor of the past.

Wines of the Tre Monti Winery: Romagna DOC Sangiovese and Pignoletto DOC

The wines of this winery are the result of the love and emotions of the Navacchia family who handed down their passion from father to son. The study of the land and the selection of the best plants are the starting point for the organic wines Gusto & Passione Slow Food Italy Selection: Romagna DOC Sangiovese, saline and balsamic, perfect with the classic tagliatelle with Bolognese sauce and Pignoletto DOC, fresh, carefree and pleasantly aromatic.

Salami from the Falorni Butcher: nine generations of knowledge

In the heart of Chianti, the Falorni family has been working high quality cured meats since 1806. For 9 generations they have selected exclusively the best cuts of fresh Italian pigs that the master butchers work by hand and treat "with a knife", respecting the artisan knowledge to guarantee the quality of the Sbriciolona Chiantignana Gusto & Passione Slow Food Italia Selection. Absolutely to try, this typical Florentine salami is an excellence known and appreciated throughout Italy. It is a soft sausage, prepared using lean and fat pork meat, chopped to medium grain and then salted and flavored with fennel seeds, pepper, garlic and other spices.

Beers from the Soralamà Brewery: only with mountain spring water

Soralamà is among the top 15 Italian craft breweries and its beer stands out for the purity of mountain water and for the use of top quality natural raw materials, typical of the surrounding area: in Val di Susa at the foot of the Sacra di San Michele, Soralamà in fact creates its craft beers drawing directly from the source that has excellent organoleptic qualities. This unique ingredient makes their beers light and easily digested. Pils, IPA, Blonde Ale and Bock Rossa.

The ancient and modern charm of the taverns according to Slow Food – Italian Cuisine

The ancient and modern charm of the taverns according to Slow Food


Never before in fashion the concept of osteria, more articulated than one thinks and in continuous development. As always, you will find the best Slow Food guide. Among the 268 Chiocciole of the 2020 edition, we have chosen one per region

For those who like eating out is a must. And in an era of obvious culinary reflux, it has become a reference point for fans in general. The Guide to Italian Taverns of Slow Food has reached its 30th edition and for the important anniversary – in addition to granting itself an important stage for the presentation such as the Piccolo Teatro Milanese – a successful restyling has been made that does not go to undermine the practicality of use or to remove the deep meaning of the work. That is to say the tavern. «For me it is a familiar and welcoming place, where people ate in a simple but tasty way, today almost become mythological. A word that everyone seems to know, but that is anything but simple to codify, because there are at least four types, "explains Carlo Petrini, the Slow Food guru.

Different expressions

In fact, osteria is an all-encompassing term that embraces the locals who make the reading of the territory their own special key. «Modern, traditional tavern, agritourism, traditional restaurant, continues Petrini, «are different expressions of a model, developed between the First and Second World Wars, which has once again become the reference point for Italian restaurants, as well as being very loved by foreigners who visit our country . The 2020 edition reviews 1656 local (as opposed to 1617 in the previous edition) while the taverns chiocciolate they have gone from 279 to 268, confirming that it is not easy to enter the elite.

Special prizes

Like every year, Slow Food curators award special prizes to the best in each category: for regional cuisine at the Antica Trattoria Di Pietro in Melito Irpino (AV), for the tavern young at L'Oste Dispensa in Orbetello (GR), for the pantry at La Pecora Nera in Albi (CZ), for the wine list at Visconti in Ambivere (BG), for the novelty at Trattoria Popolare l'Avvolgibile in Rome and for welcome from tavern in La Brinca di Ne (GE). However, in the end only the Chiocciole count: for those who love the tavern and those who manage it is worth a Michelin Star. They certify the quality of the products – with great attention to Slow Food Presidia, of course – and the validity of the wine cellar, respect for the typicality and quality of the kitchen. But also and above all that passion which is the basis of the tavern, a place of food and soul. Maybe a little updated, but true to himself and our memories. In our selection – not being able to mention them all – we have chosen an emblematic for each region. Go there and you will agree.

Hunters – Cartosio (AL)

An interesting cuisine, between Piedmont and Liguria, with class ideas in respect of the traditional script. Dishes that are always worth the trip such as ravioli with butter and sage or panna cotta with mint.

La Brinca – Ne (GE)

It goes up (with pleasure) from the Levant to reach one of the most Ligurian places ever, where you follow ancient or forgotten recipes, executed in a perfect way. Starred wine list and many theme nights.

Mirta – Milan

From a tavern of Casoretto to cult for the Milanese of every neighborhood (and not only). Without changing the soul (and the kitchen), the place of Juan Lema and Cristina Borgherini offers a menu that draws from all the regional traditions.

Morelli Osteria Storica – Pergine Valsugana (TN)

Own sausages, Garda fish, cheese from nearby valleys, herbs and flowers grown by the owner. It is always good in this historic tavern, equipped with a good cellar.

Pitzock – Funes

A wooden stube, in one of the most suggestive valleys of the Dolomites. Oskar Messner serves the best of local produce, in very well-kept dishes: smoked char, lamb shank, donut with apples and poppy.

Locanda Devetak – Savogna d’Isonzo (GO)

One of the most famous inns in the North-East, practically on the Slovenian border. Ingredients and dishes tell different cultures, thanks to the passion of the Devetak family. Top quality winery.

Enoteca della Valpolicella – Fumane (VR)

In the heart of the wine area behind the Garda, a "warm" place where the rich wine cellar is enhanced by traditional Veronese cuisine. The risottos are excellent (in the photo the one with the bruscandoli) and the baked goose leg.

Osteria di Rubbiara – Nonantola (MO)

Here time has stopped and cell phones are not allowed. That's right, because we focus on a perfect Emilian cuisine, with the first in pole position. To visit the winery and the family acetaia.

Osteria del Teatro- Cortona

A tavern in the center, built in a building of the '500. Classy ambience for a tavern where quality is high and respect for tradition there is no lack of innovative ideas in the kitchen. 500-label wine cellar.

Wine and Food – Senigallia (AN)

In a town that can boast five Michelin Stars, it is a great idea to offer seafood Marche cuisine in a young environment, choosing from a daily-changing slate, a well-deserved Snail.

Il Casaletto – Cerreto di Spoleto (PG)

The "stone of the smoked" makes it clear that here the Umbrian product – of the Val Nerina in particular – is sacred. But also the following highlights between first courses with homemade pasta and meat and freshwater fish.

Trattoria Popolare l'AVvolgibile – Rome

A renowned chef for a serious but not elitist review of the Roman trattoria. Adriano Baldassarre hit the Chiocciola in a few months with a popular but well-kept kitchen. His Carbonara is applauded.

Vecchia Marina – Roseto degli Abruzzi (TE)

It is difficult to challenge the primacy among fish taverns in the entire region. Fish and shellfish arrive every morning and end up straight in the kitchen. The simplicity is won with a proposal of space raw and the fried fish.

La Grotta da Concetta – Campobasso

Excellent raw materials, simple and rigorously local dishes, a family atmosphere: it is not surprising that this inn is an institution of the Molise capital. Do not miss the chops with sauce.

Peppe Zullo – Orsara (FG)

It is the room of one of the most famous peasant cooks, a tireless ambassador of Apulian gastronomy. Its beautiful fixation is represented by the spontaneous herbs, present in many traditional recipes.

Perbacco – Pisciotta (SA)

The essentiality in a beautiful place. A wine bar-restaurant where you can drink well and eat very well, starting with the anchovies soaked in a cake pan with the ricotta cake and orange shortcrust pastry. Next to it a B&B where to stop.

Da Peppe – Rotonda (PZ)

Historic landing on the slopes of Pollino where Peppe De Marco delights enthusiasts with antique and cared for dishes: from the soup of poverelli beans to potato pie and bran peppers (photo) to the inevitable lamb in several recipes.

Black Sheep – Albi (CZ)

An inn in the heart of Calabria, evocative and silent, which exalts local products: cold cuts, cheeses like Sersale ricotta and Pecorino silano, vegetables. Tasting menu for 29 euros.

Al Ritrovo – San Vito Lo Capo (TP)

In the Italian cous cous temple – here they make it delicious with spicy vegetables – Mediterranean fish is celebrated in a series of tasty dishes. Home-made bread and pasta, based on ancient Sicilian flour.

Su Recreu – Ittiri (SS)

An oasis in the Sassari area, a farmhouse in the countryside with rooms and lodgings. You can enjoy typical Sardinian cuisine, from the inside, with an unmissable sequence of appetizers and lots of meat.

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