The ancient and modern charm of the taverns according to Slow Food – Italian Cuisine

The ancient and modern charm of the taverns according to Slow Food


Never before in fashion the concept of osteria, more articulated than one thinks and in continuous development. As always, you will find the best Slow Food guide. Among the 268 Chiocciole of the 2020 edition, we have chosen one per region

For those who like eating out is a must. And in an era of obvious culinary reflux, it has become a reference point for fans in general. The Guide to Italian Taverns of Slow Food has reached its 30th edition and for the important anniversary – in addition to granting itself an important stage for the presentation such as the Piccolo Teatro Milanese – a successful restyling has been made that does not go to undermine the practicality of use or to remove the deep meaning of the work. That is to say the tavern. «For me it is a familiar and welcoming place, where people ate in a simple but tasty way, today almost become mythological. A word that everyone seems to know, but that is anything but simple to codify, because there are at least four types, "explains Carlo Petrini, the Slow Food guru.

Different expressions

In fact, osteria is an all-encompassing term that embraces the locals who make the reading of the territory their own special key. «Modern, traditional tavern, agritourism, traditional restaurant, continues Petrini, «are different expressions of a model, developed between the First and Second World Wars, which has once again become the reference point for Italian restaurants, as well as being very loved by foreigners who visit our country . The 2020 edition reviews 1656 local (as opposed to 1617 in the previous edition) while the taverns chiocciolate they have gone from 279 to 268, confirming that it is not easy to enter the elite.

Special prizes

Like every year, Slow Food curators award special prizes to the best in each category: for regional cuisine at the Antica Trattoria Di Pietro in Melito Irpino (AV), for the tavern young at L'Oste Dispensa in Orbetello (GR), for the pantry at La Pecora Nera in Albi (CZ), for the wine list at Visconti in Ambivere (BG), for the novelty at Trattoria Popolare l'Avvolgibile in Rome and for welcome from tavern in La Brinca di Ne (GE). However, in the end only the Chiocciole count: for those who love the tavern and those who manage it is worth a Michelin Star. They certify the quality of the products – with great attention to Slow Food Presidia, of course – and the validity of the wine cellar, respect for the typicality and quality of the kitchen. But also and above all that passion which is the basis of the tavern, a place of food and soul. Maybe a little updated, but true to himself and our memories. In our selection – not being able to mention them all – we have chosen an emblematic for each region. Go there and you will agree.

Hunters – Cartosio (AL)

An interesting cuisine, between Piedmont and Liguria, with class ideas in respect of the traditional script. Dishes that are always worth the trip such as ravioli with butter and sage or panna cotta with mint.

La Brinca – Ne (GE)

It goes up (with pleasure) from the Levant to reach one of the most Ligurian places ever, where you follow ancient or forgotten recipes, executed in a perfect way. Starred wine list and many theme nights.

Mirta – Milan

From a tavern of Casoretto to cult for the Milanese of every neighborhood (and not only). Without changing the soul (and the kitchen), the place of Juan Lema and Cristina Borgherini offers a menu that draws from all the regional traditions.

Morelli Osteria Storica – Pergine Valsugana (TN)

Own sausages, Garda fish, cheese from nearby valleys, herbs and flowers grown by the owner. It is always good in this historic tavern, equipped with a good cellar.

Pitzock – Funes

A wooden stube, in one of the most suggestive valleys of the Dolomites. Oskar Messner serves the best of local produce, in very well-kept dishes: smoked char, lamb shank, donut with apples and poppy.

Locanda Devetak – Savogna d’Isonzo (GO)

One of the most famous inns in the North-East, practically on the Slovenian border. Ingredients and dishes tell different cultures, thanks to the passion of the Devetak family. Top quality winery.

Enoteca della Valpolicella – Fumane (VR)

In the heart of the wine area behind the Garda, a "warm" place where the rich wine cellar is enhanced by traditional Veronese cuisine. The risottos are excellent (in the photo the one with the bruscandoli) and the baked goose leg.

Osteria di Rubbiara – Nonantola (MO)

Here time has stopped and cell phones are not allowed. That's right, because we focus on a perfect Emilian cuisine, with the first in pole position. To visit the winery and the family acetaia.

Osteria del Teatro- Cortona

A tavern in the center, built in a building of the '500. Classy ambience for a tavern where quality is high and respect for tradition there is no lack of innovative ideas in the kitchen. 500-label wine cellar.

Wine and Food – Senigallia (AN)

In a town that can boast five Michelin Stars, it is a great idea to offer seafood Marche cuisine in a young environment, choosing from a daily-changing slate, a well-deserved Snail.

Il Casaletto – Cerreto di Spoleto (PG)

The "stone of the smoked" makes it clear that here the Umbrian product – of the Val Nerina in particular – is sacred. But also the following highlights between first courses with homemade pasta and meat and freshwater fish.

Trattoria Popolare l'AVvolgibile – Rome

A renowned chef for a serious but not elitist review of the Roman trattoria. Adriano Baldassarre hit the Chiocciola in a few months with a popular but well-kept kitchen. His Carbonara is applauded.

Vecchia Marina – Roseto degli Abruzzi (TE)

It is difficult to challenge the primacy among fish taverns in the entire region. Fish and shellfish arrive every morning and end up straight in the kitchen. The simplicity is won with a proposal of space raw and the fried fish.

La Grotta da Concetta – Campobasso

Excellent raw materials, simple and rigorously local dishes, a family atmosphere: it is not surprising that this inn is an institution of the Molise capital. Do not miss the chops with sauce.

Peppe Zullo – Orsara (FG)

It is the room of one of the most famous peasant cooks, a tireless ambassador of Apulian gastronomy. Its beautiful fixation is represented by the spontaneous herbs, present in many traditional recipes.

Perbacco – Pisciotta (SA)

The essentiality in a beautiful place. A wine bar-restaurant where you can drink well and eat very well, starting with the anchovies soaked in a cake pan with the ricotta cake and orange shortcrust pastry. Next to it a B&B where to stop.

Da Peppe – Rotonda (PZ)

Historic landing on the slopes of Pollino where Peppe De Marco delights enthusiasts with antique and cared for dishes: from the soup of poverelli beans to potato pie and bran peppers (photo) to the inevitable lamb in several recipes.

Black Sheep – Albi (CZ)

An inn in the heart of Calabria, evocative and silent, which exalts local products: cold cuts, cheeses like Sersale ricotta and Pecorino silano, vegetables. Tasting menu for 29 euros.

Al Ritrovo – San Vito Lo Capo (TP)

In the Italian cous cous temple – here they make it delicious with spicy vegetables – Mediterranean fish is celebrated in a series of tasty dishes. Home-made bread and pasta, based on ancient Sicilian flour.

Su Recreu – Ittiri (SS)

An oasis in the Sassari area, a farmhouse in the countryside with rooms and lodgings. You can enjoy typical Sardinian cuisine, from the inside, with an unmissable sequence of appetizers and lots of meat.

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