Tag: Method

The Cherasco method snail – Italian Cuisine – Italian Cuisine

Pizza with snails

The snail is a food that has all the potential to be considered a "super food". And in Cherasco it is a very serious thing. It is here that the disciplinary that regulates the farming method was born in order to obtain excellent quality meat

Don't call it a snail. TO Cherasco his name is "snail" and there is a reason, indeed more than one. Here there is no restaurant, from trattoria to starred, that does not offer this specialty on the menu that has made the fortune of village in the province of Cuneo, which became famous for being there "City of the Snail". Indeed, it is in Cherasco that theNational Association of Heliciculturists and theNational Institute of Heliciculture, for more than forty years a training and information center for breeders from all over Italy, and beyond. In September, the arrival of Simone Sampò the direction gave new life to the Institute. Thanks to his long experience in the sector he has, in fact, established a disciplinary in five points to distinguish the"full natural cycle" breeding from those where snails are fed with feed.

What does the "Cherasco Method Snail"

The difference between the "Snails" and the "Cherasco Method Snail" it is therefore not the variety – the Helix Aspersa it is not a native species but is widespread throughout the Mediterranean – as much as the farming method. The specification provides that snails are born and grow outdoors, completing their life cycle in a completely natural way and following the rhythm of the seasons. To feed them no feed, but only the vegetation that grows inside the fences (beets, cabbage, salad) or, at most, freshly added by the farmer, to stimulate the process of emigration from the breeding area to the fattening area. . Just the concepts of "Supplementary power supply" And "Natural migration" these are the two great innovations introduced by Sampò. What is obtained at the end of the cycle are healthy snails, from the Tender Meat, tasty but with a delicate flavor, able to tease even the most skeptical palates.

The snail is the protagonist in the kitchen

A quality that of the "Chiocciola Metodo Cherasco" which is conquering chefs and gourmands. Among these could not miss Francesco Oberto, one Michelin star thanks to his research between tradition and innovation that he is carrying out at the Da Francesco restaurant, overlooking the main street of Cherasco, a few steps from the Belvedere Arch. Among the stuccos and frescoes of the historic Burotti di Scagnello palace, today Fracassi, the reference to the ingredients that have made the history of this territory is strong, but not binding. L'daring of the chef it is perfectly grasped in the "Risotto, snails, black garlic, lemon zest". A dish that has become the symbol of his success, a thoughtful approach where "the nutty aftertaste of the snail" is combined with "the almost sweet taste that garlic takes on following the dehydration process". Oberto is not the only one to have seen in the "Chiocciola Metodo Cherasco" the potential of this mollusk, a food that has all the credentials to be considered a super food, as rich in protein, 13.4%, And low in fat, 1.2%.

A project to "get the snail out of its shell"

The one implemented by Simone Sampò can be defined as one small revolution in the field of heliciculture of which the gastronomic aspect is one of the points that make up its ambitious project. A project that embraces the nut supply chain, from breeding, to processing for food use with Italian Lumacheria, up to cosmetics, with the Sagapò line, based on snail slime extracted with a completely innovative method. The specification, which was presented at the beginning of April, also to theUniversity of Gastronomic Sciences di Pollenzo, is therefore only a first step "to get the snail out of its shell". The next will be the opening of a real one academy, also in Cherasco, which will host courses for breeders, educational workshops for children and even a Spa.

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The wine of the week: Pas Dosè Classic Method 1865 2014 Conte Vistarino – Italian Cuisine

The wine of the week: Pas Dosè Classic Method 1865 2014 Conte Vistarino

A bubble capable of telling so much about the Oltrepo and which takes its name from the year in which the first Italian dry sparkling wine was created. The work of a great-great-grandfather, who transmitted passion and much love for Pinot Noir

Do you remember those nobles who live in idleness without ever having worked a day in their lives? Here, forgettable. Because the protagonist of this story is the exact opposite and if you wanted to give her a gift, she would probably be happy to have days with a few more hours.

Ottavia Giorgi from Vistarino has been taking over the family business for three years, a boundless estate of over 800 hectares, of which about 200 of vineyards, among the few in Italy in which some colony contracts still exist; it includes 25 farmsteads, in which sharecroppers lived with their families, around 450 people, and then the splendid villa Fornace, which hosted nobles and crowned heads from all over Europe, whose photographs and various memorabilia survive. Passing from one room to another, Octavia tells stories of hunting, lunches and parties organized by her parents who still live here. The photographs of the past parade on the shelves next to precious porcelain and the park, designed by Achille Majnoni, architect of the king of Italy Umberto I, surrounds the villa as a green and quiet backdrop. All around the vineyards, which include the classic Oltrepo vines, even though Pinot Nero is definitely the lion's share and occupies a special place in the heart of Octavia. "It was my great-grandfather Augustus who imported Pinot Noir from France in Oltrepo in 1850, which here has found the right climate and suitable soils, calcareous, mixed with clayey marl; today it is produced in red, white and in the classic method version, both white and rosé ”. And there is more, because since Ottavia entered the company, she has tried to enhance Pinot Noir, bottling the vineyard grapes by vineyard, just like they do in Burgundy, and giving life to three crus Pernice (my favorite), Tavernetto and Bertone. Atri will follow in the future, since Octavia took me to see the new plant of the San Silvestro vineyard, dwelling in a cold and always well ventilated area.

But the Rocca de ’Giorgi estate boasts another record: it was born here, in 1865 the first Italian dry sparkling wine, produced by Count Augusto with the help of Carlo Gancia. That date today gives the name to the most representative sparkling wine of the company, the Pas Dosè 1865 Classic Method, a wine that combines momentum, elegance and territoriality. The aromas range from white flowers, to ripe fruit, to candied citrus fruits; when tasted, it is striking for its creaminess and structure: the material is there but it is well supported by acidity and the persistent finish is fresh and saline. It works great, from the aperitif to the fish dinner by the sea.

Why now: goes very well with fish dishes; the ideal is to uncork it on vacation, by the sea.

As did: it is a pure pinot nero, vinified in steel and then aged in the bottle on the lees for at least 48 months before disgorging.

To combine with: first and second courses with fish, shells and shellfish, white meats

Serve it at: 8 ° C.

Price: 27 euros.


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The wine of the week: Classic Method Dosage Zero Rosè Strain 326 2014 Pasini San Giovanni – Italian Cuisine

Two little-known native grapes of the Brescia area and a family with the desire to experiment new ways. Here's how an amazing Classic Method is born

It all starts with Paradiso, the Brescia trattoria founded by his grandfather Andrea in the 1940s. Among the tables set, the interest in the Pasini family's wine is born, today the third generation of winemakers: 60 years of activity celebrated in 2018. We are at Puegnago del Garda, a few steps from the lake, in an area that is beautiful from a landscape point of view and blessed with a particular microclimate, so much so that in addition to the vine, olive and citrus cultivation thrives and it is not unusual to find palm trees and caper plants.

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The company Pasini San Giovanni produces about 300,000 bottles a year, divided between the territory of the Valtènesi (red and pink wines, from groppello, marzemino, sangiovese and barbera) and that of Lugana (white wines from turbiana grapes). All the labels are interesting, but the hand is particularly happy with the Classic Method sparkling wines; in the company there are three, Lugana Brut, Centopercento Extra Brut (a single grape, vinified in white) and Dosage Zero Rosè Ceppo 326: it is on the latter that you have to bet, if you like bubbles and want to try a wine unlike anything you've experienced so far.

It is made with 65% groppello, plus a white berried grape, which has always been chardonnay, replaced by the 2014 vintage fromerbamat. The vine, native of the Brescia area, was once very cultivated, then it was abandoned in favor of more "easy" and known varieties. Its main characteristics are neutral taste, late ripening and great acidity, qualities that make it the perfect grape for sparkling wine, especially in this period of climate change (not for nothing, they are experimenting and studying carefully in the nearby Franciacorta).

What is striking about Ceppo 326 is its slender and vertical character, with the delicate scents of small red fruits and some slight idea of ​​spice, to serve as a seasoning for a sip full of salt and freshness. It is a fairly complex wine, for the rest on yeasts for over 30 months, but at the same time extremely easy to drink: it is good for an aperitif, but it is enhanced even more when it accompanies some dish: from fish tartar to meat , also with fruit; from shells to shellfish, not to mention pizza. In short, it is the classic bottle whose only flaw is to finish too quickly.

Why now: once discovered it can no longer do without it: the sooner you know it, the better!

As did: groppello and erbamat, collected in 2014 remained to refine in the cellar until the spring of 2016; after the draw, the disgorgement was carried out in February 2019, without added sugar.

To combine with: raw fish, steamed crustaceans, scallops, spaghetti with seafood, fresh fromaggi, focaccia with onions.

Serve it at: 6-8 ° C

Price: 19 euros


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