Two little-known native grapes of the Brescia area and a family with the desire to experiment new ways. Here's how an amazing Classic Method is born
It all starts with Paradiso, the Brescia trattoria founded by his grandfather Andrea in the 1940s. Among the tables set, the interest in the Pasini family's wine is born, today the third generation of winemakers: 60 years of activity celebrated in 2018. We are at Puegnago del Garda, a few steps from the lake, in an area that is beautiful from a landscape point of view and blessed with a particular microclimate, so much so that in addition to the vine, olive and citrus cultivation thrives and it is not unusual to find palm trees and caper plants.
The company Pasini San Giovanni produces about 300,000 bottles a year, divided between the territory of the Valtènesi (red and pink wines, from groppello, marzemino, sangiovese and barbera) and that of Lugana (white wines from turbiana grapes). All the labels are interesting, but the hand is particularly happy with the Classic Method sparkling wines; in the company there are three, Lugana Brut, Centopercento Extra Brut (a single grape, vinified in white) and Dosage Zero Rosè Ceppo 326: it is on the latter that you have to bet, if you like bubbles and want to try a wine unlike anything you've experienced so far.
It is made with 65% groppello, plus a white berried grape, which has always been chardonnay, replaced by the 2014 vintage fromerbamat. The vine, native of the Brescia area, was once very cultivated, then it was abandoned in favor of more "easy" and known varieties. Its main characteristics are neutral taste, late ripening and great acidity, qualities that make it the perfect grape for sparkling wine, especially in this period of climate change (not for nothing, they are experimenting and studying carefully in the nearby Franciacorta).
What is striking about Ceppo 326 is its slender and vertical character, with the delicate scents of small red fruits and some slight idea of spice, to serve as a seasoning for a sip full of salt and freshness. It is a fairly complex wine, for the rest on yeasts for over 30 months, but at the same time extremely easy to drink: it is good for an aperitif, but it is enhanced even more when it accompanies some dish: from fish tartar to meat , also with fruit; from shells to shellfish, not to mention pizza. In short, it is the classic bottle whose only flaw is to finish too quickly.
Why now: once discovered it can no longer do without it: the sooner you know it, the better!
As did: groppello and erbamat, collected in 2014 remained to refine in the cellar until the spring of 2016; after the draw, the disgorgement was carried out in February 2019, without added sugar.
To combine with: raw fish, steamed crustaceans, scallops, spaghetti with seafood, fresh fromaggi, focaccia with onions.
Serve it at: 6-8 ° C
Price: 19 euros
pasinisangiovanni.it
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