Tag: trip

Christmas market in Aosta: a train trip for the holidays – Italian Cuisine


Christmas markets, Marché de Noël, Christkindlmarkt: call them what you want, the fact remains that they return, December after December, stainless and evergreen, ready to animate the squares of the most evocative places in our country with their stalls full of merchandise. Reaching them comfortably, without traffic stress and without problems of sudden snowfalls or frosts is not impossible: to start their Christmas shopping no problem, incredulous and skeptical, they just have to get on one of the Trenitalia regional trains that arrive in the most evocative and glamorous locations of the Beautiful country.

Aosta, Roman city
Like Aosta, for example. In the past his name was Augusta Praetoria, a small Rome of the Alps, scattered with majestic buildings wanted by senators, matrons and emperors. Even today, among the streets of the center (a kind of grid typical of the ancient Roman colonies) you come across a Arch of Triumph, dedicated to Augustus and built to celebrate the victory of the legions of Rome over the indigenous population of the Salassi. The ancient decumanus, the main road of ancient Augusta passed right under the Arch and continued until it passed Porta Praetoria, from where the gigantic city walls started, scattered with watchtowers so mighty that they became, in the Middle Ages, the homes of local lords. Another dive into the distant past of the city takes place in front of the Roman theatre, which at the time of Augustus was destined to host shows and performances: one of the surviving facades, embroidered with arches, windows and columns, is still imposing today, as imposing and well preserved is the staircase where the spectators applauded the plays of Plautus or the tragedies of Seneca. It is in the shadow of these two testimonials of Roman Aosta that one of the most popular Christmas markets in the Alps is held.

193746Stalls of rustic goodness
Here is, for all, the Marché Vert Nöel, open until January 6, 2022: its historical site winds through the arches, the steps and the stage walls of the Roman Theater with about thirty chalets which, ideally, reconstruct an alpine village among firs and pines. Decorated with garlands and lights, they sell wooden objects (the famous grolla and sabot, the traditional clogs) or ceramic, hemp, wool or felt fabrics (such as draps della Valgrisanche), soaps and scented candles. However, craftsmanship and more. Here, in fact, the greedy traveler also finds excellent products to taste and buy: the Bleu d’Aoste (one of the most popular blue cheeses in the valley), the Jambon de Bosses (mountain and Guinness cured ham since it is the highest in Europe), the Lard from Arnad, i wines of the Route des Vins (Gamay and Donnas, Torrette and Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle), jams and honeys, spirits (including Genepy) and beers from local micro breweries.

193747The arch and the Fontina
For the 2021 edition, the Marché does it in two because even the pedestrian area of ​​theArch of Augustus becomes a location for stands and chalets: here, next to the workstations of local artisans, is the Fontina Chalet, the famous and celebrated DOP cheese produced exclusively in the Aosta Valley and aged in charming aging cellars. The Arco d'Augusto is also the location of the evocative previews of the Sant'Orso Fair (held every year on 30 and 31 January): every weekend the artisans of the Valley show how they create their wonders and dedicate time and space also for visitors under 12 to whom tailor-made workshops and ateliers are reserved.

How to get
193966Direct connections between the Turin railway station and Aosta are daily thanks to Trenitalia's Regionali Veloci carried out with the new bimodal convoys, which depart practically every hour from the city of La Mole and arrive at their destination in less than two hours. The trains stop in Chivasso, Ivrea, Pont Saint Martin, Hone-Bard (Sundays and holidays), Verres, Chatillon-Saint Vincent, Nus and end the journey in Aosta.

December 2021
Enrico Saravalle

Intense splendor: a trip to Sardinia – Italian Cuisine


In the northeastern part of the island between Alghero, Sassari and Castelsardo, a fertile land opens up: alongside tasty sheep cheeses and strawberry tree honeys, a first-rate extra virgin is born here. Just like the enchanting beaches of fine sand and the cliffs shaped by the wind


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For those who wish to make a voyage (gastronomic) exclusive in Sardinia, there is the possibility of exploring a culinary island of a region made up of an infinite number of archipelagos. Sassari is a city to be experienced for the ancient core cut by the high Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the churches, the private and public buildings such as the Frumentaria, the first building on the whole island for the storage of wheat that bears the coats of arms of the city and of Aragon.

Sassari plays four aces at the table
191997 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/10/intenso-sardegna-cibo-@salepepe.jpg "width =" 210 "style =" float: left;There fainè is the farinata, which in the city is eaten seated during the coolest period of the year. The best you can taste is Da Benito, in the Sant’Apollinare district. Another gastronomic flag is the snails, of which four qualities are consumed that Giovanna Zirattu raises a few steps from the city walls, indicating the best consumption for each. Then there is it zimino, which unlike what one might believe are grilled adult bovine offal, a dish that even Porto Torres claims. Finally the ribisari beans, cooked with garlic, parsley, chilli and oil. The latter, mainly in spring, but which, thanks to the jars prepared by the Pinna Brothers, can be cooked all year round. Difficult to remain indifferent in front of their shelf, with the theory of extra virgin olive oil (to try the pitted one from Bosana cultivar, elegant and fine), pasta and wines (among all the Vermentino di Sardegna Doc scented with broom).

Beaches, local crafts and old Catalan
But the natural resources of the city of Sassari such as Platamona beach, loved by surfers, and the lake of Baratz. Reeds and typhets, strawberry trees and mastic trees grow there while the watchtowers help to observe calanders, kingfisher and red herons. Thanks to the availability of vegetable fibers present in wet areas, it survives production of baskets, a form of craftsmanship that deserves to be known. The quick hands of Pierluigi Calvani, in nearby Fertilia, intertwine mastic, myrtle, dwarf palm and olive. Fertilia administratively belongs to Alghero, another one linguistic island: an ancient version of Catalan. In Alghero there is a characteristic form of craftsmanship, the processing of coral. To be sure of knocking on the right door, you go to the Marogna workshop, full of burins and limes.

Between one excellence and another
In the Alghero countryside, the tireless seekers of goodies rely on the good practices of the Fois family, that is Olearia Academy. In the 200 hectares of olive groves, where variety prevails Bosana, oils are born award-winning extra virgin olive oils. To keep a place in the suitcase for a bottle of Sardinia PDO Green fruity, bitter and pungent obtained from the pressing of Bosana olives harvested still green, and of varieties Semidana, almondy and spicy.

Between paradisiacal beaches and Sardinian excellences
191993 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/10/intenso-sardegna-capocaccia-@salepepe.jpg "width =" 210 "style =" float: left;Of Alghero stroll through the seaside village enclosed by the walls and the tree-lined promenade. Then, risking an out of season swim, we head towards the Bombarde beach of fine sand. If the sea permits, a boat trip to Capo Caccia will end with the dolphins to welcome. Whoever arrives along the paths reaches the Neptune's Grotto descending the 656 steps carved into the rock of the promontory: as a reward the exciting view of one of the geological wonders of the Mediterranean thanks to its two kilometers of reflections of light and silence. In the evening, in the city, dinner is based on zimino, the fish soup underlined by the strong taste of dried tomatoes. The next day, wake up with the scent of pa punyat, the circular bread with a thin and crunchy crust, with a straw yellow color. Although of Alghero origin, to taste it you can go to the Cherchi bakery in Olmedo, a Sardinian village where the symbolism linked to bread is still profound.

Sardinia at Christmas
Those who decide to spend the Christmas holidays there, also visit the Nativity scene set up with puppets of bread after having a look at the Romanesque church of Nostra Signora di Talia.

Cheeses, views and trails
191995 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/10/intenso-sardegna-sennori-@salepepe.jpg "width =" 210 "style =" float: left;If there is time, in the nearby town of Tissi stocks up on cheese sheep patiently produced by Paolo Camboni. Then it takes half an hour by car to reach Sennori, just north of the capital. THE panoramas on the sea they seduce at least as much as the costumes worn by men and women on holidays. Autumn is the ideal time to travel standing or in mountain bike the paths between Sorso and Sennori: crossing holm oak woods and Mediterranean scrub you come across water mills, nuraghi and pinnettas, pastoral buildings with a circular plan.

Good Sardinian oil and wine
It will not be difficult to come across olive harvest by Giuseppe Brozzu, who on these hills has 27 hectares of Bosana and Semidana cultivars conducted under organic conditions. You can continue the experience with a visit to the crusher during the pressing of the drupes and finish it in search of a cellar where the Moscato from Sip Sennori Doc, aromatic and honeyed white wine. Castelsardo direction.

A dip in nature
191994 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/10/intenso-sardegna-rocciadellelefante-@salepepe.jpg "width =" 210 "style =" float: left;Inside the walls of the ancient village, silence is broken by the screeching of seagulls and the rustle of the mistral hitting the Aragonese walls of the cathedral. On the nearest hills, travelers get ready for the photograph of one of the symbolic natural monuments of Sardinia, the Rock of the Elephant, sculpted by rain and wind. They allow a leap in time domus de janas carved into the rock and the adjacent nuraghe Paddaggiu, well preserved. Then, those who love the natural dessert continue towards Valledoria, where are the wings of the
bees by Carmen Atzori to move the air. From the expanses of lavender wild some of the best regional honeys come from chestnut woods and strawberry trees. In Valledoria even unrepentant carnivores find their place of delight: in Butcher's by Luca Cossu find cured meats, lamb from Sardinia Igp and su tattaliu, made with lamb entrails. All around, on the banks of the Coghinas river, the crops of Spiny artichoke of Sardinia Dop. Those who stay a few more days rely on the regenerating treatments of the Casteldoria spas before filling up with joy between Bulzi and Martis with the churches of San Pietro in Simbranos and San Pantaleo, Romanesque-Pisan. Halfway there is a stop in the kingdom of rabbit breeding, Laerru. Hunting or with olives, fried or with Vermentino di Sardegna Doc, those who haven't tried it yet have lost a piece of paradise.

October 2021
by Riccardo Lagorio

top photo by Christina Anzenberger – Fink & Ton / Contrasto

The addresses
of Sale & Pepe


Agricola G.M.O. by Vittorio Ogana
Via Cagliari, 2
Laerru (SS)
Tel. 3395687541

Helix Mediterranea By Giovanna Zirattu
Vicinal road of Santa Maria Lu Gardu
Tel. 3499433994

Pinna oil
Strada Vicinale Maccia d'Agliastru, 21
Tel. 3385242649

Olearia Academy
Via dei Carbonai
Alghero (SS)
Tel. 079980394

Paolo Camboni Farm
Via Italia, 8A
Tissi (SS)
Tel. 3348148260

Apidoria by Maria Atzori
Via Alessandro Volta, 35
Valledoria (SS)
Tel. 3332330302

Giuseppe Brozzu Agrobiological Company
Via Magellano, 2
Castelsardo (SS)
Tel. 3299896920

Agroittica company of Patrizia Manai
Port quay
Porto Torres (SS)
Tel. 3920106435

Casu Agricultural Cooperative Society
Location Baddiulia, 375
Santa Maria Coghinas (SS)
Tel. 3472416136

Other activities

Pierluigi Calvani
Largo Fiume, 3
Locality Fertilia
Alghero (SS)
Tel. 3332195535

Antonio Marogna
Via Don Giovanni Minzoni, 208
Alghero (SS)
Tel. 979951082


Luca Ossu Butcher
Via Enrico De Nicola, 1
Valledoria (SS)
Tel. 3497159676

Cherchi bakery
Via Sassari, 7
Olmedo (SS)
Tel. 079902248


Trattoria al Refettorio
Vicola Adami, 47
Alghero (SS)
Tel. 0799731126

Li Lioni estate
State Road, 131
KM 244,400
Porto Torres (SS)
Tel. 079502286

Finagliosu farmhouse
Strada Vicinale Fiagliosu, 80
Tel. 079530474

La Guardiola Restaurant
Bastione Square, 4
Castelsardo (SS)
Tel. 079470755

Posted on 10/24/2021


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Daunia flavors in strong colors: a trip to Puglia – Italian Cuisine


Between the Gargano and the Tavoliere this sunny land of ancient transhumance embraces expanses of wheat, vineyards, fruit and vegetable crops. And then olive groves as far as the eye can see that give an extra virgin of great character


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There Daunia is an angle of Puglia where sea, lagoon, plains and mountains coexist. But above all, some of the most important artistic monuments in the region. Yet the statistics tell us that this area, with the exception of the marine centers of the Gargano, is the least touristy. Large estates and farmhouses, genuine gastronomic tradition and the food industry come together in the Tavoliere di Puglia, the granary of Italy: kilometers of elementary and beautiful land, immense and sunny.

From North to south
191904 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/10/daunia-puglia-ulivi-@salepepe.jpg "width =" 210 "style =" float: left;For those coming from the north, the first exit on the A14 in the Apulian territory is Poggio Imperiale, but the town that can be reached in the shortest time is Lesina. Its lake, actually a lagoon that communicates with the sea, is worth getting to know closely with the lake tourist services. In the morning it is nice to have a visit to the fish market: a triumph of silversides, sea bream, sea bass and mullet. And above all eels, for which the village is known among gourmands. Bosco Isola, the strip of sand fragrant with myrtle and laurel that divides the lagoon from the sea, is crossed with the mountain bike or backpacker: the welcome is provided by flamingos and bee-eaters, badgers and foxes. Those who want to continue with the walk they head towards San Paolo of Civitate which offers the opportunity to travel along a well-marked stretch of the tratturo Magno. It connected L'Aquila to Foggia: an ancient highway used for the transhumance of animals in the past centuries. A motorway complete with a toll, as shown by the pandetta embedded in the wall at the Taverna di Civitate.

The fruit and vegetable excellences of Torremaggiore
191906 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/10/daunia-puglia-conserve-@salepepe.jpg "width =" 210 "style =" float: left;Torremaggiore intertwines its history with that of Federico II. If time is not running out, you can visit the ruins of Castelfiorentino, the place where the emperor died. Torremaggiore, with San Ferdinando di Puglia and Lucera, it is also one of the vertices of the triangle where the fertile Apulian plain gives its best. Anyone who wants proof goes to the laboratory Longing for Puglia: this is where vases of tomato, an infinite collection of vegetables and creams to season bruschetta and extra virgin olive oil from the characteristic Peranzana cultivar, with a well-distributed ratio between bitter and spicy. After all, more than half of the tricolor olive oil comes from the Italian heel. A primacy that sprinkles tomatoes, fennel, artichokes, broccoli, asparagus and recalls another leading sector of the Apulian economy and tables, thefruit and vegetables, at the base of the most illustrious regional culinary preparations.

The return to the land of Lucera
This is how it announces itself among olive groves, vineyards and crops of wheat and vegetables Lucera with the imposing profile of the Swabian-Angevin walls, nine hundred meters of stone silhouetted on the horizon. Lucera is a city rich in history, set in the Roman amphitheater, built using a natural cavity in the ground, in the Gothic cathedral and in the Swabian castle. Dribbling one building and the other in the center reveals the refinement of the details that enrich Lombardi Palace And De Peppo Palace confirming the prosperity of the rural economy in the eighteenth century. In the countryside of Lucera, on the other hand, you can discover farms that have generations of 2.0 peasants in charge, with a degree in their pocket but who have chosen return to the earth. Witnesses Raffaele and Francesca Rossi, who in the Scorciabove Estate prepare pickled tomatoes and delicious past as well as wheat and vegetables for the wholesalers market. Trend confirmed by Nicola Faccilongo in Agricola Paglione. A stop in its vats is a must to discover the authenticity of this family that has helped to recover the Cacc 'and mmitte from Lucera Doc, sapid wine and full of ruby ​​color.

Bovine and sheep transhumance
Three clues are said to prove: in the Masseria Pavoni the ancient practice of transhumance: bleating and mooing that come from there are ruled by one of the souls of the Carrino family, Cristoforo, a veterinarian. Great stop for a purchase of caciocavallo And pecorino.

A stop to fill the stomach and eyes
191905 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/10/daunia-puglia-cattedrale-@salepepe.jpg "width =" 210 "style =" float: left;In the city picturesque corners bloom under the dim lights of the evening and for those who sit at the tables of the restaurant The Cortiletto Paolo Laskavj airs the agro lucerino complete with spaghetti with trio of yellow, red, green and cacioricotta tomatoes. In the morning, after 17 kilometers between gentle curves, one of the most beautiful is found cathedrals from Puglia, to Troy, perched on a ridge of the Monti Dauni. The rosette looks like a crocheted cotton doily, the bronze door is a masterpiece. It is not necessary to have a good nose to be captivated by the scents that accompany towards the Roflè pastry shop. Try the biscuit with fig vincotto and the soft cantucci with lemon. Towards Foggia, the road is a balcony that embraces the entire Tavoliere. After a walk among the baroque palaces of the capital you can take a look at the rooms of the civic Museum which house the collection of artifacts from the Italic city of Arpi. Then you have to calculate half an hour on the road along the S.S. 89 to be fascinated by the melting pot of medieval architectural styles basilica from Santa Maria Maggiore in Siponto. An imposing metal mesh structure, like a hologram, reconstructs the nearby church, older and now lost. The seafront and the boundless beaches of Manfredonia, generous with sun even in October, are just a few minutes away.

Typical dishes: between tradition and modernity
Some good local fish and shellfish dishes, too in the form of sandwiches, can be tried at Calamarando, but the presence of gastronomic deposits of earth still makes room with the characteristic rustic of the town, the farrata: the pastry is filled with ricotta, cinnamon, marjoram and boiled spelled.

Green and luxuriant Daunia
Lovers of botanical curiosities are accompanied by expert guides in theSalt Lake Oasis in search ofbladder grass rice fields, a small carnivorous plant. The paths that cross the Gargano are a godsend for those who love walking. The harsh karst landscape and the angular coast are softened by the fragrant Aleppo pines and gardens oforanges, carob trees And olive trees. Like on the road that leads to Mattinata. To try a oil dizzyingly we stop at Masseria Papone: the pitted one is recognized for its persistent spicy vein and almond aftertaste.

The last stage
191907 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/10/daunia-puglia-san-michele-@salepepe.jpg "width =" 210 "style =" float: left;It is worth taking the switchbacks that go up to Monte Sant'Angelo, built around the cave where the archangel Michael would appear. The neighborhood can be identified from afar Junno thanks to the imposing octagonal bell tower that rises above the roofs of the town. Armed with telephoto it's hard not to indulge in photos I remember to the Abbey of Pulsano in an irregular fissure of the promontory that offers panoramic views of the Tavoliere and the Gulf of Manfredonia. From here you can explore the Gargano National Park. Alternatively, with just over an hour's drive you can reach Apricena, the terminus of the sheep track that started from Celano. Not before a special purchase in Michele Sabatino's Macelleria, the muscisca: goat meat obtained with an archaic method of preservation, cut into small strips, seasoned with garlic and chilli and finally dried. A memory in strong colors.

October 2021
by Riccardo Lagorio

top photo by Massimo Borchi / Sime

The addresses
of Sale & Pepe


Longing for Puglia
S.P. Casalvecchio 1.300 KM
Torremaggiore (FG)
Tel. 0882382429

Scorciabove estate
Contrada Scorciabove S.P Lucera-Palmori KM 3,000
Lucera (FG)
Tel. 0881529618

Paglione Farm
Contrada Perazzelle S.P 116 KM 9,800
Lucera (FG)
Tel. 3669907771

Masseria Pavoni Fratelli Carrino
Contrada San Giusto
Lucera (FG)
Tel. 0881542936

Masseria Papone
S.S. 89 Garganica
Monte Sant'Angelo (FG)
Tel. 3409272132


Butcher Sabatino
Via Roma, 50
Apricena (FG)
Tel. 0882643190

Ricci Bakery
Via Don Luigi Sturzo, 62
Lucera (FG)
Tel. 0881540136

Roflè pastry shop
Piazzale Antonio Salandra, 8
Troia (FG)
Tel. 0881970237

Salvatore Ognissanti Bakery
Via San Lorenzo, 142
Manfredonia (FG)
Tel. 0884662366


Il Cortilett restaurantor
Via Family De 'Nicastri, 26
Lucera (FG)
Tel. 0881542554

Lungomare Nazario Sauro, 19
Manfredonia (FG)
Tel. 3892610400

Trattoria Giordano
Vico al Piano, 14
Tel. 0881724640

Posted on 10/16/2021


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