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Sarah Cicolini: an Abruzzese in Rome – Italian Cuisine


Rome, San Giovanni: the culinary tradition of Abruzzo mixes with that of the capital in the Santo Palato restaurant by Sarah Cicolini

Who would have thought? There priestess of the fifth quarter in the San Giovanni neighborhood in Rome has long been a vegetarian. But yet, Sarah Cicolini, 30 years old, Abruzzese toaster of Guardiagrele, a town rich in history on the slopes of Majella, a mother from D'Annunzio, has meat in her DNA. Perhaps because it has grown in the countryside, with rhythms marked by archaic rituals and rituals such as the art of killing pigs (the thought goes to Ermanno Olmi's film, The hoof tree, winner of a Golden Palm at the Cannes Film Festival), an area where it is natural to see hams, salami, lonze hanging in the shops. Today, gastronomic souvenirs of tourists who choose "La Guardia" (this is how the inhabitants call their country) as a destination for starry food. And not only.

«My roots have profoundly marked the passion for food: I spent a lot of time with my maternal grandparents, waking up to the song of the rooster, immersed in the scents of cypresses, lindens, peach trees in bloom. Breakfast was obligatorily based on homemade donuts and beaten eggs, but we also ate a lot of seasonal vegetables, seasoned with our leccino oil ", says Sarah who, having moved to Rome to study medicine, threw down her coat after four years white for wearing the senàl ’, the chef's apron. First experiences behind the counters of various places in the capital, then the lucky landing in the kitchen of Roy Caceres (Michelin star of the restaurant Metamorfosi, in Parioli) where he learned the job of brigade and met his current sous chef, Mattia Bazzurri, from Rome and a great leavening expert.

With Mattia and a handful of awake boys, Sarah Cicolini carries on Holy Palate (piazza Tarquinia 4 / a, tel. 06 77207354), an adventure that began in 2017, and was immediately reviewed in the "New York Times" which wove the praises of its Roman-style tripe.
«My dishes start from the search for an ethical consumption of meat. I think it is wrong to eat only the noble cuts. With the help of my trusted supplier, Roberto Liberati (also from Abruzzo, ed), I choose and work the forequarters that represent the beating heart of Roman cuisine, "says the chef, sitting at a table in this colorful trattoria at the avant-garde reminiscent of the Futurist movement on the one hand and the rebirth of Rome in the second post-war period on the other.
"The future? It is in working the whole beasts "", she says with conviction. Remembering, not without tenderness, the recipe of grandma Maria that is most important to her: omelette with chicken giblets. A «scarlet frittata, as you define it. «First I start to stew the heart and the gizzards with water, wine and oil, which we call gricil ', then I add the liver, one egg per person, salt, pepper and fresh parsley . To the delight of a clientele composed of Romans mostly young people and tourists.

As a good "Abruzzese de Roma", Sarah Cicolini could not forget porchetta, a specialty that unites the two regions. With some substantial differences: "That of Lazio must be cut thin and consumed cold. And it is flavored with wild fennel. In Abruzzo we serve it hot, accompanied with deadly potatoes: cut into large segments, with the peel, cooked in the oven with garlic and rosemary .

Having just returned from a work tour that stopped off in the US and Australia, she recounts the recipes with which her overseas diners delighted. «For the four-handed dinner with Bobby Flay during the South Beach Wine & Food Festival in Miami I prepared the vaccinara-style meatballs, the carbonara stuffed with liquid filling and the porchetta with potatoes. In Sidney, hosted by Marta Osteria, I focused on carbonara (with the dips of Pasta Mancini, ed), tripe and husband in my own way: a tribute to Rome, made with white flour, burnt wheat flour, vanilla and stuffed green pepper with yellow cream and cream .

The City of Pizza returns to Rome from 12 to 14 April – Italian Cuisine


At the Ragusa Off, San Giovanni area, the event that brings the best pizza makers in Italy to the capital, who will compete in round shots between temporary pizzerias, workshops and laboratories

Lots of news for the 2019 edition of City of Pizza. Starting from the location, which leaves Guido Reni District, to land in Ragusa Off, inside a former Atac bus depot, in the San Giovanni area. The weekend dedicated to pizzas this time will be from 12 to 14 April and the formula remains a mix between "temporary pizzerias", committed to churning out and frying the best Italian pizzas, and opportunities for reflection on the theme, from baking methods to yeasts , from styles to raw materials.

There are many top-quality pizza in Italy that will offer their pizzas for tasting temporary pizzerias divided into the following categories: "Neapolitan", "All'Italiana", "A degustazione", "Romana", "Al taglio" and "Fritta", to which must be added the space dedicated to "Fritti all''italiana", for a total of 12 daily workstations and three different recipes each.

In fact, every pizza artist has been called upon to try out a classic pizza, chosen between margherita and marinara, a workhorse and a special edition, created specifically for the event. Moreover, by popular demand this year we also thought about a gluten free proposal, which for the three days of the event will be signed by Diego Vitagliano and Sara Palmieri (10 Diego Vitagliano).

But the program designed by the organizers, a team of authors composed of Emiliano De Venuti, creator and CEO of Vinòforum, by the master pizzaiolo Stefano Callegari and by journalists Luciano Pignataro, Tania Mauri and Luciana Squadrilli, is even richer. Starting with lunches and dinners for four and six hands in the category "Masters in the Ferrarelle Kitchen" in which master pizzaioli and chefs will be challenged, some starred, who will make up their menus alternating dishes and pizzas, paired with Ruinart champagne.

The conference calendar is very rich, with laboratories and workshops dedicated respectively to enthusiasts and professionals and who will see the top seed of Italian pizza, from Franco Pepe (Pepper in grains) a Gabriele Bonci (Pizzarium), from Renato Bosco (Saporè) a Marzia Buzzanca (Percorsi di Gusto), just to name a few.

Admission is free, but the advice is to buy on the site the jumpers, which in addition to the advantage of entering quickly, include equal value in tokens, useful for paying pizzas and drinks in the various temporary stands.

The Temporary pizzerias

Friday 12, starting at 18.00 and until 24.00:
Alessio Mattaccini (Spiazzo) Francesco Arnesano (Yeast, Pizza, Bread), Tommaso Vatti (La Pergola), Carlo Sammarco (Carlo Sammarco Pizzeria 2.0), Angelo Pezzella (Angelo Pezzella Pizzeria With Kitchen), Valentino Tafuri (3 birthmarks), Marco Rufini (Casale Rufini), Giuseppe Pignalosa (Le Parule), Angelo Tantucci (Whim), Francesco Di Ceglie (Il Monfortino), Giancarlo Casa (La Gatta Mangiona), Carmine Donzetti (Pizza & Fritti).

Saturday 13, from 11.00 to 24.00:
Martino Bellincampi (Batter), Mario Panatta and Sara Longo (Pizza Chef), Davide Fiorentini (‘O Fiore Mio), Angelo Greco and Giuseppe Furfaro (Trianon) Rosario Ferraro (The Antica Pizzeria da Michele), Matteo Aloe (Berberè) Sami El Sabawy, Salvatore Santucci (Ammaccàmm) Lello Ravagnan (Grigoris) Errico Porzio (Pizzeria Porzio), Giuseppe Maglione (Daniele Gourmet), Fabio and Michele Tramontano (At the meeting of friends).

Sunday 14, from 11.00 am to 10.00 pm:
Marco and Antonio Pellone (Ciro Pellone Pizzeria), Filomena Palmieri (Pizzeria Da Filomena), Denis Lovatel (From Ezio), Ciccio Vitiello (Casa Vitiello), Vincenzo Esposito(Carmnella) Alessandro Coppari (Half meter), Mirko Rizzo and Jacopo Mercuro (180g Pizzeria Romana), Ciro Salvo (50 Kalo), Pier Daniele Seu (Seu Pizza Illuminati), Ivano Veccia (Qvinto) Roberto Orrù (Sa Scolla), Isabella De Cham, (Isabella De Cham Pizza Fritta).

a new address in Rome and Alessandra's recipe – Italian Cuisine


In the Trastevere area a room dedicated to the Roman tripe is born. At the command is Alessandra Ruggeri, who gives us her special recipe of tripe with beans

"But what are you from Milan?" Alessandra Ruggeri answers this question with a laugh, adding: «No, semo those of Rome . The name is in fact partially misleading, because it recalls the success of the Milanese restaurant. However it describes well part of the offer of this new address of Trastevere: focus on Tripe, to which a paragraph of the menu is dedicated, as well as on the other cornerstones of the fifth Roman quarter, as the pajata and the vaccinara tail, and on other traditional dishes. Not without, however, indulging in some "poetic license", coming out of the Roman kitchen to offer innovative dishes such as ravioli stuffed with tripe or goduriosa tripe with beans that perhaps winks more to Tuscany.

Alessandra Ruggeri admits she started eating tripe as an adult. "I don't know the reason, but at my house it was Sunday and when you woke up in the morning the smell in the house was nauseous, not even because once the tripe didn't sell it as clean as it does now. Then over time I became passionate about it, also because in addition to being one of the poorest cuts in cattle, tripe is also one of the leanest, perfect for those on a diet … only to eat it super seasoned or fried .

Not only childhood and tripe on Sundays: Alessandra also talks about her "previous lives", from participating in Miss Italia to work in sales (an experience that comes in handy when she presents her dishes and wines in the room) In the middle a passion for cooking always cultivated in the background, until he decided to change his life, at the dawn of fifty years. She graduates as a cook thanks to Tu Chef's professional course, takes her first steps between dining room and kitchen in her family's restaurant (Osteria Palmira, on the Gianicolense) and decides at some point to open her own banner, dedicated to much reviled tripe. Here Alessandra is one and three: she starts the preparations in the kitchen, manages the room and also takes care of the interesting cellar.

And so here is the chapter dedicated to tripe, which ranges from fried tripe to Roman tripe with pecorino cheese, from tripe egg to tripe-filled ravioli, to its tripe with beans and tripe meatballs. The cornerstones of Roman cuisine are all there, from carbonara to spaghetti cacio e pepe or amatriciana, a recipe by which Alessandra says they did a very long study, also because the family of the companion comes from Amatrice. And, again, the rigatoni with pajata, the vaccinara tail, the breaded and fried lamb cutlet, the sweetbreads with artichokes and so on. Even desserts speak Roman, such as ricotta and sour cherries tart, and the legendary tiramisu, another test for Roman trattorias, is never missing, where it never fails.

Tripe with beans – Alessandra Ruggeri's recipe

Ingredients

Tripe 1 kg, cannellini beans 200 g (prelessates), bacon q.b., smells (celery, carrot and onion), tomato sauce 80 g, extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp, sage and mint, salt and pepper, chilli, white wine q.b.

Method

Fry the smells in a pan with extra virgin olive oil and then add the bacon and make it a little crunchy. When it is ready add the tripe and let it stew a little. Add the sage, salt, a pinch of pepper and pepper. Sprinkle with wine, let it evaporate and then add the tomato puree, mint and two ladles of water. Cook it and then add the cannellini beans (but if you also want the borlotti, they are fine). Let them flavor, if necessary add salt and pepper. Serve the tripe with the warm beans.