Tag: chefs

50 Best and Michelin Guide: why do chefs care so much about appearing? – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay

50 Best and Michelin Guide: why do chefs care so much about appearing?

Let’s start with a concept: The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024 it is a ranking, not the bible of catering. We won’t bore you with the methodology that leads to the final result: to simplify, it’s a mega-survey among professionals – with notable and declared lobbying actions (ergo, there’s no point in denying it this time it didn’t work for Italy) – while the Michelin guide it is the evaluation of a group of people (the legendary inspectors) who go around the premises anonymously, getting it right or wrong. So, in light of the half disappointment (three quarters, if you think about it) that arose from the night in Las Vegas, the question is: will we have real damage from the almost general worsening of our best restaurants? Yes and no. In the meantime, let’s remember how it went for our heroes: Lido 84 in 12to position (he was seventh in 2023), Reale at number 19 (he was 16th), Piazza Duomo in 39th place (he was 42nd, hurray) and Uliassi only in 50th (he was 34th). In the list from 51st to 100th there are Atelier Moessmer at 52nd and Le Calandre at 51st while Mudec greeted us which in 2023 was 85th.

The “very good lounge”

The damage is of a promotional nature for the Italian food system and for the establishments that need – and almost all of them do – international customers. Because beyond the legitimate pride of being among the best chefs in the world, it is about being part of the “very good salon” that brings a group of serial gourmets from one part of the globe to the other, even in frankly uncomfortable places. Example no. 1 is represented by Lido 84 by the talented Camanini brothers: great cuisine, full of ideas; very nice restaurant with splendid terrace overlooking the lake; Italian hospitality. But only the presence, at the top, in the The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024 it allowed him – we have proof of this – to seat Mexican, Japanese and American customers in Gardone Riviera, even and above all out of season when there is desert around. The good Davide Scabin who was part of it for a few years with Combal Zero always remembers that «the moment I entered or returned, I received hundreds of emails to book from all over the world. When I lost positions they automatically dropped.” And the Fifty beauty. Which for Italians – including gourmets – doesn’t mean much (find someone who will mention Reale’s placing, but everyone knows it has three stars), but for those who want to broaden their horizons a lot.

Michelin arrives later but…

And here we are with the fact that seen through our eyes, the fall of the gods is more a question of personality than reality. In the sense that the Italian clientele (small, objectively) of our top venues only looks at the Michelin guide: hence the terror, especially of the chef-patrons, in losing a Star and the infinite joy in winning the first one or rising in rating. Now, it is also true that the maximum ratings often coincide or rather Nostra Signora Rossa usually comes later to certify the excellence, as was the case with Noma. Disfrutar, new restaurant n.1 (almost obvious) for the The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024 has the Three Michelin Stars, Extebarri – second in the ranking – only one, but it is the temple of grilled cuisine, therefore perfect for those who love trends, but not for the Little Red Book. Table Bruno Verjus, surprise of the year, boasts two, but be careful, it is located in Paris and even in this case it does not have the perfect standards for the Guide. For the record, our best ones – apart from the aforementioned Lido 84 – have had the Three Stars for some time.

Bottura’s role

Pulling the strings, if you want to “be in the world” it is essential to be part of the 100 chosen beyond the real value. Without any malice, three-quarters of the South American or Asian restaurants in the ranking are inferior to dozens and dozens of European and Italian restaurants first and foremost. While from one country to another, Michelin can be more proactive (in France, obviously) or more severe (Italy, but up to a certain point); but it becomes complicated to criticize her for assumptions. On the topic The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024, we will have the counter-proof of every reasoning (theoretical, lobbying and concrete) in a year under the Mole: Turin will host the 2025 edition. The great maneuvers have already started, with the objective – not easy, we say it now passing as pessimists – to raise the group’s prices. Because, it is fair to point out, now the real phenomenon – namely Massimo Bottura – is in the Hall of Fame and has been co-opted to better organize next year’s event. We could say it’s a shame you’re not still playing.

Buon Ricordi turns 60, 100 chefs celebrate it in Vietri – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay

Buon Ricordi turns 60, 100 chefs celebrate it in Vietri

The entire Italian culinary tradition met in Vietri sul Mare (Salerno, Amalfi Coast) to celebrate the 60th birthday ofUnion of Restaurants of Good Memory. “100 chefs for one evening” is the title of the memorable event which began in the heart of the city of ceramics – on Corso Umberto I – with a long table made of delicacies from every region ofItalyand ended on the Rosa dei Venti seafront with a gala dinner washed down with excellent Franciacorta, in which the trait d’union was the team spirit and true friendship of the chefs of Buon Ricordi, proud to be the standard-bearers of the more authentic quality Italian cuisine.

Vietri and its ceramics: the cradle of Good Memory

The location was not chosen by chance: the oldest restaurateurs’ association in Italy is linked to Vietri sul Mare by the fact that – since 1964 – they are produced there, in the historic Ceramica Solimene the famous dishes which depict the symbolic dish of each restaurant, given as a gift as a “BuonRicordo”, of an unforgettable culinary experience. “For us restaurateurs at Buon Ricordi it is a dream that has come true. Celebrating 60 years of activity in the place from which everything started in 1964 with the famous hand-decorated plates from Ceramica Solimene it has finally become reality”, underlined the president Cesare Carbone and the general secretary Luciano Spigaroli.

The Good Memory dinner, good twice

Venetian-style creamed cod with pearl white corn polenta and cereal bread crouton, “Matte” Trofie with Genoese pesto with DOP basil and 60-month DOP Parmigiano Reggiano, Darna of seared fish with citrus fruits from the two Coasts, Lemon delight (edited of the Academy of Masters of Mother Yeast and Italian Panettone); paired with Franciacorta Brut and Franciacorta Satèn Brut, whose perlage enhanced every single dish. This is the menu for the sea view dinner, the proceeds of which went to charity, in favor of two local associations: L’Abbraccio OdV and OPEN-Pediatric Oncology and Neuroblastoma Onlus. Furthermore, the chefs provided their work for free. As per the Good Memory tradition, all the guests received a I remember the 60th anniversary dish from the evening lovingly painted by the artisans of Ceramica Solimene of Vietri sul Mare, made in a special dated and numbered edition.

The entire event enjoyed the patronage of the Campania Region, the Province of Salerno, the Municipality of Vietri sul Mare, the Amalfi Coast Tourist District and was created with the contribution of the Chamber of Commerce and the CNA of Salerno and the support of the Restaurateurs Association and of the Pro Loco of Vietri.

What is the Union of Restaurants of Good Memory?

L’Union of Restaurants of Good Memory it was the first association of restaurateurs born in Italy and is still the most widespread and well-known today. 60 years of age, 112 brands, of which 11 abroad: since 1964 the URBR has safeguarded and valorised the many Italian gastronomic traditions and cultures, uniting countryside and city restaurants and trattorias under the aegis of local cuisine, from North to South. To characterize each restaurantand to create a trait d’union between them, is today as in the past the symbolic plate hand-painted by the artisans of Solimene Artistic Ceramics of Vietri sul Mare where the restaurant’s specialty is depicted, which is given to guests in memory of a pleasant gastronomic experience to remember. Taken together, the associated restaurants represent, with the extraordinary variety of their cuisines, the very rich mosaic of Italian gastronomy.

Look at the photos of the event

How to recognize a good pizza according to the great pizza chefs – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay

How to recognize a good pizza according to the great pizza chefs

On January 17th we have one more reason to eat it: it’s the Pizza Day. But how do you recognize a good pizza? The most popular Italian dish in the world is also the most inflated, and every time it is a different experience. If it’s true that everyone has their own tastesthat for example a true Neapolitan will hardly appreciate a thin or pan pizza like a Roman, and that those who prefer the crunchy one will never admit (or perhaps) to having appreciated a pizza with a soft crust and filling, there are objective parameters to understand if that What are we eating? Is it a well-made pizza or not?

How to recognize a good pizza

The great pizza chefs we consulted have no doubts: appearance can say a lot, because it’s not just the flavor that counts. And above all, the flavor of the first slice doesn’t matter, nor just the taste experience you experience in the moment.

In the gallery below you will discover the details, with advice from six champions of pizza in Italy: the first in the world for the 50 Top Pizza rankingthat is Francesco Martucci; Diego Vitagliano; Giuseppe Staritawhich carries on the tradition of the historic Starita pizzeria in Materdei which has now become synonymous with the best Neapolitan pizza even overseas; Salvatore Lionellowhich is leading the way with its “differently Neapolitan” pizza that has just arrived in Milan. But not only. We also asked for advice Renato Boscowhich with its “contemporary”, “chunch” and gourmet pizza is among the ambassadors of the nouvelle vague of the pizza world, and Gino Sorbilloanother true Neapolitan who deserves the credit of having made the art of pizza known to the general public. Here’s what they told us.

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