This is not a panettone, is a leavened inspired by the autumn season created by Gian Piero Vivalda in the bakery and pastry shop of his restaurant Ancient Royal Crown, two Michelin stars a Cervere (CN). The panettone has gone out of fashion all year, but not the idea of making leavened that reflects the seasonality of the ingredients. To fill that time interval between the production of the Easter dove and that of the panettone (basically from Easter to September), chef Vivalda has created an afternoon dessert, a soft leavened reminiscent of Venetian, dotted with red fruits and summer candied fruits (black cherries, apricots, pineapples, figs and mandarin) baptizing it precisely Real Cloud, entered production in May 2019. The dough is similar to that of the panettone, with double leavening, one before 12/14 hours and a second one of 8 hours, with a baking in the oven and the characteristic resting phase at the head in down, but lightened with eggs and butter, and with greater acidity conferred by the lemon paste and mandarin paste.
After the success of the summer Nuvola Reale, from September 21st the came Real Autumn Cloud, with the smell of coffee. Even to the taste, of course, but above all to the smell of coffee: «It is not enough to tickle only a part of the senses. A combination of emotions is needed. The taste is central, but does not open without the scentExplains chef Vivalda. "If the shape is reminiscent of Venetian, the freshness of its dough is enhanced and is adorned with the aroma of Kafa coffee, the pride of Lavazza, the suavity of Piedmontese centrifugal butter and the purity of vanilla in Madagascar berries". In the dough also dark chocolate and candied pink grapefruit. «We could not find better ingredients than chocolate and coffee, the latter cold infused for 12 hours in addition to a small portion in powder, mixed directly into the dough. The addition of candied pink grapefruit with its slight acidity and bitterness, then made the Nuvola Reale d'Autunno balanced and balanced, completes the pastry chef Luca Zucchini, head of AtelieReale.
To prepare it here is the recipe to produce 6 Real Autumn Clouds of the size of 500 grams (cooked weight). A way to practice while waiting for the time to devote to Christmas panettone.
First evening dough
700 grams of strong flour (for large leavened products)
220 grams of granulated sugar
150 grams of live mother yeast (ready for use) or 100 grams of fresh egg yolks
100 grams of butter 82% m.g. soft
350 grams of water
Second dough (the next morning)
200 grams of strong flour (for large leavened products)
100 grams of water
200 grams of granulated sugar
25 grams of acacia honey
3 grams of "bourbon" vanilla pulp in madagascar berries
300 grams of fresh egg yolks
12 grams of sea salt
2 grams of ground coffee powder
500 grams of candied pink grapefruit cut into julienne strips
200 grams of dark chocolate 56%
250 grams of butter 82% m.g. soft
Put water, sugar and ready yeast in the kneading machine or planetary mixer (this is meant after three refreshments of about 3-4 hours each, so that the yeast triples its volume in each of these cycles) and let everything work for 2 or 3 minutes. At this point add the large leavened flour and knead. After about 15 minutes (time can be modulated according to the type of mixer that is used), and in any case with a full mixture of gluten, add the fresh egg yolks and the soft butter.
Let the dough work until the composition is very smooth and does not come off easily from the mixing bowl. Put the dough back in a rather bulky tub. The next objective to be achieved is the tripling of the volume of the same mixture (therefore 1 + 2, or 3 volumes). It should therefore be placed in a stove or in a leavening room (if the latter is available) at a temperature of 26-28 ° C for a time that can be estimated between 10 and 12 hours.
You will have obtained the first dough, tripled compared to the previous evening. Pour it into the kneader and gradually add the large leavened flour and the water. Let the dough work until it is smooth (not shiny) for an estimated time of 10-12 minutes. Add the sugar and honey and return the mixture to a smooth consistency. At this point, pour in the egg yolks, and with the last 100 grams of these, add the salt and let the dough work until it becomes smooth again. Then add the butter together with the coffee powder and the vanilla pulp from Madagascar. When the butter is harmoniously incorporated into the mass, you will add the candied pink grapefruit and dark chocolate and let the dough work again for 3-4 minutes so that the filling is evenly distributed. It is necessary at this point to let the dough rest at room temperature for 30 minutes and then proceed with the size.
The fractions will be about 560 grams each, formed by the balls in "pirlatura" and again let them rest for about 20 minutes. Then proceed to the second pirlatura and at the end arrange them in the appropriate paper molds ("pirottini") as it is also used for panettone. Then a leavening time of about 6-7 hours follows at a temperature of 28 ° C, which will see at least the voluminous doubling of the initial mass of the pieces.
Finally, cook at 170 ° C for about 35 minutes, emphasizing that at the core the end of cooking temperature should be 93 ° C. Once cooked, the Royal Clouds will be placed upside down for a minimum of 12 hours. It is at this point that you will proceed with the placement of the individuals in suitable pouches closed with special laces. For an ideal final result of the product it is important to keep it in a cool place for no more than three weeks.