Tag: night

One night fishing for sardines in the Adriatic – Italian Cuisine


A fishing trip in the Upper Adriatic, off the coast of Chioggia, on the "Audace" and "Profeta" fishing boats to discover the phases of the "short chain" of fish


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What does it mean "short supply chain"fish? It means going out to sea, fishing, selecting, refrigerating and sending the catch to the sales counters in less than 24 hours. But how is such a quick process possible? To find out we participated in a fishing trip in the'Upper Adriatic, to the Largo di Chioggia, on fishing boats "Audace" and "Profeta".
These are two of the 18 boats highly specialized with whom Pam Panorama, historical brand of large retailers, has a pre-emption agreement for the sale. And thanks to this agreement, the fish arrives in supermarkets the day after being caught.

To pursue the Bold and the Prophet we leave from the port of Chioggia before dawn. The tools and nets have been checked and ice has been loaded on board which will be used to keep the catch very fresh until the moment of disembarkation. The fishing boats sail fast, up to 12 knots, towards the open sea. You are looking for a large bank of sardines or anchovies, not only with the help of the most modern equipment such as sonar and echo sounders, but also on sight, with the experience of the captain and his crew, people who know how to go to sea. Where there are the richest banks, the water ripples, boils and has reddish reflections. And even before the fishing boats arrive the dolphins, who certainly do not miss the easy meal.

The reef is located after several hours of navigation in the open sea. It is time, for the twin fishing boats, to drop the net, with a very precise technique that requires great harmony. Audace and Prophet are arranged side by side. Each one holds one end of the thick steel cable to which a complex network is attached: first with large meshes, then increasingly narrower, up to the "sack of death" from which nothing escapes anymore.

Audace and Prophet navigate perfectly synchronous and parallel, and bring down the net that gradually "embraces" thehuge shoal of blue fish. They do this for 30 to 40 minutes, pulling the net. The effort is enormous. As the fish becomes harnessed, its weight causes the two boats to tilt dangerously inwards. When the net is full they finally slow down, stand side by side and, still together, begin to hoist the caught on board. It is a huge "ball" weighing 3500 tons.

The fruit of the catch is calculated in this way, by hand, with that approximation that turns out to be very close to the exact number thanks, once again, to experience. Approximately 500 cases, each case of the weight of 7 kg. The Prophet and the Bold repeat the descent 3-4 times, always with the same procedure in perfect coordination, reserved for this type of fishing. The seagulls fly, screech, swoop in, demanding at least a small part of the booty. By the end of the morning, Audace and Prophet will have almost collected 15 tons of sardines and anchovies.

As soon as the catch is hoisted on board the sailors select it based on the cut and to quality, they place it in the crates and cover it entirely with ice. Once back in the port of Chioggia, around 3.30 pm, the raw material will be further selected, until its quick departure towards the fish counters of the Pam-Panorama points of sale. The journey takes place aboard refrigerated trucks to ensure absolute freshness. And the next day the fish will be on sale.

Over 600 points of sale in Italy
Thanks to the features of absolute quality and freshness the fishmonger department has been the flagship of all over the world since the 1970s 600 points of sale in the Pam Panorama network, present in Piedmont, Lombardy, Liguria, Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio, Abruzzo, Puglia and Campania.

Towards new routes
The fish cconstitutes 5% of the 2.7 billion of annual turnover. The 46% is fished, then there is the breeding one. The routes of Pam are mainly in the upper Adriatic, and recently we have gone into the Tyrrhenian Sea, along the coasts of Tuscany and Lazio. Territoriality is an important factor, and for this reason the labels show it, indicating in detail the fishing area.
The techniques vary according to the species: such as sardines and anchovies, even mantis shrimp, mullet, baby octopus and cuttlefish, sole, scallops, shrimp and more require specialized and highly professional crafts and methods.
On the strength of these numbers, the company, which has continued to grow in the last two years, aims to expand further, with the opening of large superstores in Veneto, Piedmont and Emilia Romagna. And, why not, with the opening of new routes in the Mediterranean.

By Barbara Galli,
November 2021

Posted on 11/10/2021


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Night before reopening: Carlo Cracco's emotions – Italian Cuisine

Night before reopening: Carlo Cracco's emotions

Today the first service at the restaurant in the Galleria, one of the symbols of a Milan in search of redemption and Italian haute cuisine. Thoughts and words of a great chef, more concentrated than ever. «I am afraid, not afraid. Only our work will save us "

Carlo Cracco, today the restaurant on the first floor of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele reopens. It is important for you, your brigade and a Milan that is slowly recovering. Do you remember when it opened two years ago? A century seems to have passed.

«We were coming from a positive period, the two years in the gallery were beautiful, we felt launched at full speed. And even after the first warning, during Fashion Week, it seemed absurd to think about what happened next. In two days the world has changed. I turned off the stove on March 13, until the last day we had resisted: even if we only had lunch, and for very few. More to imagine, to delude ourselves, to think that it would have been short. It was also a way to keep the team, spirit and ideas on "

We bet that in his forty-year career it never happened that for two months in a row he didn't work in a restaurant kitchen.

"Exact. This is also why I immediately accepted the proposal to feed the workers of the Fair who built the hospital. We started with 50 meals, quickly arrived at 400. Then ours exploded online with requests, questions, new products… We started working on pastry and then on delivery: Sunday Lunch was born from the success of the Easter Lunch .

Do we explain to a person who is not a cook what you missed most?

«The moment of service, the check at the pass, the dish that comes out. It's my adrenaline and, I think, everyone who works in the kitchen

Trivial, obvious question. Why reopen today?

"Because I understood that there were people who wanted to taste our dishes, go back to the restaurant. This is the only thing that leads me to optimism for the coming months. But above all, I decided that we had to start again and not wait for the events. I think it's a question of courage, it's not unconsciousness or superficiality. It is the logic of reacting, of doing. My. In these three months, perhaps there was less talk in the newspapers and on the sites. It was better for me to do more and leave the visions alone: ​​in our category there is always a unitary spirit that would make the difference. Not only in dramatic situations

Are you excited?

"Surely. True since May 4 we reopened the takeaway bistro, but it's a different story. I feel fear, not fear. I am surrounded by people who live this work with dedication and passion like me. The brigade is loaded, aware that the projects stopped by the lockdown will resume as soon as possible. We shared this surreal situation, thinking about the work to be done: the only solution to not go crazy or get depressed. Without rhetoric, I tried to take the very few good things into the disaster we experienced. "

For example, if they told her he would end up in the media for his delivery …

"It's true. Before, I was a cook tied to a work system that I learned as a kid. Now I understand that in catering there are no more marginal aspects. I had fun thinking about the Easter cake with the kids – Pan Mugnaga – and preparing Sunday Lunch. Will remain? Well done, yes. It is an additional service in the relationship with the customer. And e-commerce is also a push for chefs to develop. Here too, the boom of these months has made me understand its potential. Nothing is taken for granted

Apart from the application of security protocols, what has changed in Cracco in Galleria?

«We have reduced the paper, but this is not the focus. Among other things, we also did it to Carlo and Camilla in the Sawmill. In any place in the world, if the cuisine was good before a closure, it remains good, if the craftsmen do not change and therefore they are peaceful. But we will try to convey even more availability, show us more flexible, be closer to customers. In this phase, the dining room of a restaurant will become the absolute protagonist, it will make a difference compared to the past

Cracco, with the usual frankness, what do you expect from today onwards?

«To see the faces of the faithful, then a very gradual return of the public. We have a clientele for half of Italy and I hope to see it all again. But it will take at least a year before everything starts again, and maybe it will only start again when we can finally hug each other again, hug each other, laugh without fear of hurting the neighbor, participate in parties and events. I am thinking of the Salone del Mobile, the Fashion Weeks. Without getting them back, in Milan it will be really difficult. Not just for me, of course

Will we make it, chef?

«I know that the first thing to do is to exorcise fear, to recreate people trust. Restaurants are factories of smiles, they must return to being as soon as possible .

Three breakfasts to prepare the night before – Italian Cuisine

It is always difficult to get out of bed to go to work, but if waiting for you there is one greedy breakfast everything changes. If you are tired of the usual biscuits with milk or yogurt with cereals or rusks with jam, then prepare something different from the usual, something that does not require great cooking skills, but only a little organization. We want to offer you three recipes that you simply have to assemble in the evening before going to bed because they have to rest one night in the refrigerator. In the morning, in a few moves, they will be ready to be enjoyed together with fruit, tea or coffee.


Who said that pancakes can be prepared for breakfast only on weekends?
You can do them every day as long as the dough rests for a long time in the refrigerator, let's also say a whole night.
The recipe that we propose is not different from all the others, in fact it is just the classic one of the American pancakes, but we invite you to leave the mixture in the fridge to firm up and take flavor for at least 9 hours. In the morning it will be enough cook the pancakes on a non-stick pan lightly greased with butter.
Remember to turn them as soon as they are formed of bubbles on the surface and cook them only for a few seconds on the other side. Use a spatula to remove them from the pan and place them one on top of the other once they are ready.
You can accompany them in the classic way with a lot Maple syrup, or with honey, jams to taste, hazelnut cream and fresh and dried fruit.
Pancakes always make the whole family happy. They are the perfect breakfast to start the day with a smile!

Pumpkin pancakes with maple syrup and blueberries on a plate.


This "Pappetta" of oats you can also prepare it in the morning with oat flakes and milk by heating everything in a saucepan for a few minutes, but if you prepare the mixture the night before in the morning you will only have to put the cup in the microwave and then decorate it with whatever you want, spices, fruit, peanut butter or jam.
If you love cold breakfasts you won't even need to heat the oatmeal but you can enjoy it just out of the fridge by simply mixing it a little with the spoon. In this case, however, we are talking about overnight oatmeal, this is called the cold version of porridge.
To prepare hot porridge instead you need three to four tablespoons of rolled oats per person and half a glass of water or milk. You decide what the consistency of the mixture should be and then pour the liquid a little at a time into a cup. Let the mixture rest in the refrigerator and in the morning heat in the microwave or in a small saucepan. Porridge can be sweetened with honey or cane sugar and perfumed with cinnamon and ginger. On this basis you can then add cocoa, chocolate drops, fruit of any kind e dried fruit creams.

Chia pudding

This is delicious light and low-calorie pudding it is prepared in a minute and should not even be heated in the morning.
Just mix it in a glass jar 30 gr of chia seeds and 200 ml of vegetable milk.
Let it all rest for a night in the refrigerator, covering the jar well, and the chia seeds will release a sort of gel inside the liquid, turning it into a pudding.
You can add honey or sugar if you prefer, but if you use a sweet milk like coconut almond milk there will be no need.
You can also prepare chia pudding in a tasty version with a teaspoon of cocoa inside and out chocolate chips.

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