Tag: issue

discover the November 2018 issue – Italian Cuisine


96961I often asked myself which territory I belong to: in Genoa, by birth, roots, family, or in Milan for work, children, home, habits. A half-life, with some doubt of not belonging to anyone. But what happened in Genoa this summer has removed long-suppressed emotions. Other reasons have forced me to return to my hometown for an unusually long time, used as I am on my way and back in the day. So I plunged back into those smells, that light, those streets, those habits, those offices, those voices that used to be, I took the same buses thirty years ago, I saw people I had forgotten and places that I had deleted from memory e I met a book, (meet is the right verb) that has opened my heart to the most tormenting nostalgia.

167190I got lost in Genoa by Maurizio Maggiani (published by Feltrinelli), has a subtitle as a guide, but it is not, at least in the classic sense of the term. It's, an intense love story by the writer La Spezia against the Ligurian capital known as a child and frequented throughout life. It is a lesson of feelings for me that, to live the second part of life, I tried to forget the first, a guide to the soul of the city, to its deepest guts, its difficulties and its beauties, a declaration of unconditional love that is not made for tourists, the result of a knowledge that I envied and that I would have for both my cities.

Yes, because if now I understand the essence of this intense affection, I also know that, unlike Maggiani, I can not make it absolute because my roots are in Milan. And this is where I will taste Genoese meat ravioli, typical once of Santo Stefano and Carnevale. The ingredients of this recipe are not easy to find, but the result is superb. For a simpler version, you can try the recipe of my sister-in-law Angela, a Genoese doc and a lover of good food. However, one or the other are excellent for enjoying a corner of my land in my other land. A bit like Giano Bifronte.


Pasta and mushrooms

Fruits for vegetables

Autumn in a quiche

Cakes without flour

Because Oyster Rockefeller Sounds Rich

There’s much debate over how many of America’s greatest
recipes got their name, but that’s not an issue with Oyster Rockefeller. Thanks
to the rich, money-colored butter sauce, this decadent creation’s name pretty
much wrote itself.

Besides the obvious, superficial reasons, associating your
new shellfish appetizer with the most affluent family of the day was a stroke
of social media genius. Hey, just because Twitter wouldn’t be invented for
another 107 years doesn’t mean people didn’t “retweet” things.

When Jules Alciatore invented the dish in 1899, he wasn’t
trying to create a classic, new American shellfish appetizer; he was simply
trying to replace snails in his diet. That’s right, what would become America’s
greatest seafood appetizer (sorry, crab cakes) was just a delicious work-around
for a serious shortage of French snails in New Orleans.

To say the customers of Antoine’s were happy with this local
substitution would be a huge understatement. They went crazy for it. The dish
quickly gained national attention, with the most famous celebrities,
politicians, and foreign dignitaries of the day stumbling over each to get a
plate or three.

The original secret recipe really is a secret; so all
versions, including mine, are just guesses. There is agreement among foodies
who study such matters that spinach was not part of the formula, but the much
spicier and more flavorful watercress was used.

Neither were mushrooms, bacon, ham, cheese, garlic, or any other
later day add-ons. Not that those ingredient aren’t good baked on top of
oysters, but that just wasn’t how Mr. Alciatore rolled. So if you are looking
for a special occasion appetizer that tastes, looks, and makes you feel (and
sound) rich, then I hope you give this oyster Rockefeller recipe a try. Enjoy!

Makes enough for about 3 dozen oysters Rockefeller:
1 stick butter (1/2 cup) room temp
2 tbsp minced green onions, white and light green parts
2 tbsp diced celery
2 tbsp fresh chopped tarragon
2 tbsp fresh chopped Italian parsley
1 cup chopped watercress leaves
salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste
2 tbsp Pernod liquor
1/4 cup bread crumbs
3 dozen oysters on the half shell

Bonus How to Open Oyster Video!

My friend Tamar, from Starving Off the Land, does a much better job of showing how to open oysters, but that’s only because she raises them and gets a lot more practice! That, and she’s better at it. Also, a special thanks to Sky Sabin Productions for their fine work on this.

For some additional shucking info, and tons of oyster recipe links, you can also check out this article on Allrecipes.com. Enjoy!

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goodtoknow Recipes magazine

New issue ON SALE THURSDAY 4th OCTOBER! Only £2.40. The UK’s best value recipes magazine.

Helping you to plan cheap, quick, easy and healthy meals for the family.

Inside the NEW brilliant November issue… On sale 4 October 2012 – 31st October 2012

  • Halloween party treats
  • 9 page baking special
  • What’s For Dinner… in 30 mins
  • Family favourites for less
  • 10 ways with puff pastry
  • Cook with your kids!
  • 14 weekend wonders
  • Rachel Allen’s chocolate heaven
  • Cake Corner – your recipes. PLUS Victoria Threader’s cupcake of the month

goodtoknow Recipes is on sale the first Thursday of every month, priced just £2.40. Available at all major retailers and all good newsagents. Subscribe today from just £10.20

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