Tag: butter

Sour butter and rancid fat. When the kitchen defies common sense – Italian Cuisine


The chefs play with ancestral tastes and forgotten products, challenging our foreclosures and looking for new flavors. Good to eat, but not to think about? Change your mind with a (sexy) recipe

Acid, rancid, bitter, burnt … are not exactly words that make you hungry, on the contrary. And yet they are increasingly common on restaurant menus today. The chefs are looking for new flavors and with often ancestral procedures they recall forgotten preparations such as fermentations. But it's true, they also try to amaze us and capture our attention, challenging us to order dishes that sound like disturbing. But that I'm not at all.

"Rancid"It is said of a fat altered by contact with oxygen and evokes tastes such as that of old oil, of forgotten dried fruit who knows where and when the butter has now turned yellow, acid and with a bitter aftertaste: a disgust. We reject the idea of ​​rancid like that of bitter or acid, from the bottom because our body recognizes it instinctively as a danger. Rancid means spoiled, but rancidity is also a necessary process for obtaining spicy cheeses or blue cheeses, it is part of ancient products that are found in every tradition, in the north and south of the world (storage before the refrigerator generated foods such as smen Moroccan or Slovenian fermented cottage cheese). In the absence of a necessity, the rancidity masterfully governed has become a way to develop new tastes, and the chefs juggle us with increasing pleasure.

Moroccan smen.

Strong ricotta and rancid fat, from chef

Large pots of fermented ricotta are stored in the Hiša Franko cellar, Ana Roš and Valter Kramar's restaurant in Kaporid, Slovenia. It is eaten for breakfast on bread and is often found in the dishes on its menu, combined with the flavors of the forest, smoked eel or beetroot. Its iconic dish, not surprisingly, is Potato cooked in hay with fermented ricotta, a gourmet version of a grandmother's recipe.

Pasta, garlic, rancid fat and chili pepper is one of the (excellent) dishes that are eaten at Bros, a Michelin star restaurant in Lecce by chefs Isabella Potì and Floriano Pellegrino. In this recipe, spaghetti is cooked and then creamed in fat obtained by boiling the waste of Salento ham fat, and then seasoned with garlic and sweet and spicy pepper powder. But just from Bros one of the signature dishes is the Ricotta forte and ricci, in which they use a typical ancient Apulian product with an intense, spicy and slightly bitter taste.

The fat of the Iberian ham

Rancid is the flavor that the Spaniards pursue in the extreme seasonings of raw ham, which year after year sees the fat transform to a golden color and an aromatic flavor with notes of wild herbs, mushrooms, truffles … cheese. Joselito Iberian ham, undoubtedly the most famous in the world, is also aged for ten years, served at room temperature, dark and deliberately unctuous, and the flavor is unforgettable.

Marchesi's sour butter

Sour butter, on the other hand, is nothing new. The father of the kitchen Gualtiero Marchesi used sour butter to whisk the risotto, necessary to impart acidity and therefore balance to the dish. In France, sour butter has a more elegant name, beurre blanc, and sees the addition of sour cream. To make it Italian, Marchesi eliminated the crème fraîche and studied a different procedure: lightly fry the butter with chopped onion and white wine, let it simmer slowly and then filter. Add more butter, mix and put back in the refrigerator until ready for use.

The recipe for sour spaghetti

At the pastry-restaurant Venom of Brescia, the chef Maurizio Amato uses the same technique to prepare acid spaghetti, with butter and beetroot. To amaze, and to break our prejudice towards words, flavors and memories, and to conquer: the name of the recipe is Visceral Love and these Spaghettoni sour butter and beetroot offers them for Valentine's Day.

Recipe

Ingredients for 2 people

1 golden onion
50 g of white wine vinegar
110 g of white wine (Pinot bianco)
120 g of butter
2 red turnips
120 g of Felicetti Spaghettone

Method

Blend the turnips, sift to obtain the juice. In a saucepan over low heat, put the onion cut into thin slices. Add vinegar and wine until the onion takes on a transparent appearance and the alcohol has evaporated. Remove from the heat and gradually melt the cold butter. Sift all the mixture. Cool and refrigerate. Cook the pasta in salted water, drain and stir in the cold sour butter and beetroot juice.

because sometimes it is more suitable than butter – Italian Cuisine


For those who are attentive to the line. For those who cannot or do not want to take on animal fats. For those who prefer sharper flavors and lighter desserts. Oil desserts are an excellent alternative

A commonplace perhaps, or a legacy of when, for different cultures or simply different habits, there seemed to be no alternative, we often tend to think (or be told) that a cake is all the more good the more it contains butter. A generous portion of butter and rain compliments our sweet, sometimes a little improvised. But we are also sometimes intolerant, vegan, or simply – sometimes, basically never on weekends – on a diet. When one or more of these three reasons align, we experience the joy of discovering that in truth for our own desserts we can also use theoil, and that in some cases it is even more suitable than butter.

Why replace butter with oil

In addition to personal food preferences, such as a vegan diet, and any intolerances, the reasons there are three main ways to replace butter with oil: taste, composition and texture. The oil in the kitchen, especially for those accustomed to the flavors of the Mediterranean diet, has the taste of simplicity and, compared to butter, gives the sweets the softness of donuts for children's breakfast: it is perfect for all desserts – or cakes – from belief, which, in addition to being good, have the far more difficult task of filling the room with perfumes, memories and magic.

The different softness comes from a different one composition of the two fats, in fact replacing the butter with oil in a recipe, the weights of the two cannot be considered equivalent: 100 grams of butter correspond, for example, to 83 grams of olive oil. It is obviously possible, and sometimes useful on the basis of the dominant flavors that we want to contribute to the final result, to replace the butter also with seed oils, more delicate, or with oils extracted from dried fruit, for example that of almonds, more flavored.
Similar considerations to those made for the composition also apply to the consistency, one – the butter – solid, the other – the oil – liquid, take on a different role in the preparations and must therefore be managed with a pinch of pastry skill, to be refined with practice and for which we leave you 3 useful tips for preparation.

oil desserts

Prepare sweets with oil

About softness
Already at the most soft (and high) view of normal, its consistency is even more pleasant and surprising at the first bite. As light as the silk yarn from which it takes its name, the very important secret of this Aromatic Chiffon Cake lies in not making the dough deflate. In the various phases of preparation it will be enough to mix from the bottom upwards whatever ingredient is gradually added; the cooling will be done upside down and is much simpler than it may seem. Still very good the day after.

Belief cakes
The external crust is very thin but crunchy, the inside is slightly damp but above all, this soft zucchini, cocoa and pistachio cake it is the simplest recipe in the world. Everything in the blender: zucchini with fillets, pistachios, oil, almond milk, honey, sugar and a pinch of salt before; sifted flour, yeast, sugar and cocoa immediately after. When everything is well blended pour it into a donut mold and bake at 175 degrees for 50-55 minutes. Serve cold and just be careful not to eat it all at once.
If you liked this recipe, you should also try this one Orange cake.

Cookies
Liquid ingredients: oil, water and eggs; dry ingredients: flour, yeast and cane sugar. Emulsify the first and add them to the second, knead and bring to a thickness of 3-4mm before cutting out the biscuits of the shape you prefer and bake at 180 degrees for about 15 minutes. A little secret, as soon as they are taken out of the oven they will still seem soft: do not stretch the cooking time for this, 5 minutes of cooling will be enough to bring them to the perfect consistency.
The complete recipe is here: put a chocolate on the fire, and imagine that it is snowing outside!

Recipe Sole with butter, truffle, sprouts and red apple – Italian Cuisine

Recipe Sole with butter, truffle, sprouts and red apple


  • 20 g black truffle
  • 4 pcs sole
  • 1 pc red apple
  • butter
  • flour
  • White wine
  • lemon
  • vegetable broth
  • salt
  • 160 g Brussels sprouts

For the recipe of sole in butter, truffle, sprouts and red apple, peel the sole and clean it: cut the pinnette with the scissors on the sides and remove the entrails. Cook them in a large pan with a knob of butter, two at a time, for 4 minutes on each side, turning them often and sprinkling them with butter. Once the first two are cooked, remove them from the pan, change the butter, cook the others in the same way and also remove from the pan. Pour the butter on the sole and keep it warm.
Sprinkle the pan with the flour with the cooking liquid, sprinkle with white wine, add 1 ladle of broth, salt and the juice of 1/2 lemon. Cook for 5-6 minutes from the boil, obtaining a sauce. Add the finely chopped truffle.
Peel the sprouts and cut them in half; boil them in boiling salted water for 5 minutes and drain them. Sauté in a pan with a piece of butter and a red apple cut into pieces, with the peel. Serve the sole with the sauce, accompanied with the side of cabbage and apple.

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