Tag: Bottura

Massimo Bottura and Vania Ghedini win GOLD in Venice – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay

Trio of golds in Venice: under the creative direction of Massimo Bottura, it is Vania Ghedini the new Head Chef of GOLDthe starred restaurant ofHotel Cipriani, A Belmond Hotel.

After the last experience with chef Riccardo Canella completed last October, he moves on to chef Vania Ghedini the mission to relaunch ORO, proposing new menus that enhance the typical products of the lagoon and beyond. An important challenge for the gourmet restaurant, which earned its first Michelin star with the executive chef Davide Bisetto in 2015, following the opening in April 2014 after a careful renovation by architect Adam Tihany. ORO is part of the iconic Hotel Cipriani, A Belmond Hotelon the island of Giudecca in Venice, opened in 1958 by the founder of the legendary Harry’s BarGiuseppe Cipriani, and still today a dream destination for the international jet set (ed: George Clooney and Amal Alamuddin chose to get married here in 2014).

«My cuisine will be in continuity with the culinary practices of the great masters who transmitted to me the value of this art and the importance of culture and knowledge. We will start from these foundations, from the places where I have lived in recent years, from Venice and the heritage of its lagoon, and we will create authentic and distinctive dishes. These are the values ​​on which we will build the precious ORO experience… now! – chef Vania Ghedini

For the mission of value, chef returns to Italy Vania Ghediniborn in 1987 and originally from Ferrara, grew up professionally for several years in the kitchens of Alajmo brothers – since 2016 first at Le Calandre and Il Calandrino, then at the Gran Caffè Quadri in Piazza San Marco and as executive chef of AMO at the Fondaco dei Tedeschi near the Rialto Bridge in Venice, finally for more than 5 years at the restaurant Sesame of Marrakesh, bringing him to eighth place for the 50 Top Italy in the World 2023.

We are betting a lot on this original collaboration with chef Ghedini at ORO under the creative direction of an explosive character like the great Massimo Bottura. In fact, the management of the food & beverage sector of the structure is in the hands of the visionary three-starred and multi-award winning chef, also known throughout the world for his parallel charitable activities such as Food for Soul and Il Tortellante, early supporter of the candidacy project of Italian cuisine as a UNESCO heritage site.

Interview with Massimo Bottura: «In my future there will always be a future – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay

Interview with Massimo Bottura: «In my future there will always be a future»

The fire burns in the heart of Massimo Bottura, who is technically no longer the No. 1 chef in the world – since he entered the Hall of Fame of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants -, but remains at the top of the ratings of world gourmets and celebrities who want to eat his dishes, old and new. But fire is also what animates the “not barbecue” of the Gatto Verde, the latest jewel of the Francescana Family – as Bottura likes to define the group of establishments – which the 61-year-old from Modena and his American wife Lara Gilmore, fundamental in his incredible climb to the top success, they created starting from a country restaurant in Campazzo. A “family” that never forgets social issues thanks to the famous Refettori of Food for Soul, the non-profit association to fight food waste in the interest of inclusion.

Modena: the heart of the Bottura world

The heart of the Family is in Modena, starting from the Osteria Francescana in via Stella 22, undoubtedly the Michelin three-starred restaurant in Italy most frequented by foreigners. Every year a new menu comes out in the name of pure creativity, increasingly Italian beyond the names of the dishes and with a stellar pairing, where the hand of director Beppe Palmieri stands out. Just outside the center there is Franceschetta (a top-quality bistro) while in the first countryside outside Modena there is Casa Maria Luigia, a place that has recently been exalted by New York Times and around which the couple’s new book was born Slow Food, Fast Cars. You can’t blame him: a charming residence, with a few rooms and the collections that fascinate Massimo and Lara: works of modern art, vinyls (thousands of them, almost all jazz), sensational Italian sports cars, not just Ferraris and Maseratis which Bottura is brand ambassador. It is here that the Gatto Verde is located, together with the small restaurant that serves the nine-course menu with the iconic dishes of the Osteria Francescana, and the Acetaia Maria Luigia, restored in 2022, which houses 1400 barrels of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar, even from the last century.

Bottura’s other projects

As a true Modenese, Massimo also revived the myth of the Cavallino, the restaurant in Maranello – right in front of the factory – which hosted Enzo Ferrari’s daily lunch for decades. And again the close collaboration with Gucci has brought the dishes and chefs chosen by Bottura to the refined Osterias in Florence, Beverly Hills, Tokyo and Seoul: the first three already boast a Michelin Star. Finally, there is the Torno Subito-Italian Restaurant format that the Emilian chef follows carefully: the first is located in Dubai (another Michelin star), those in Singapore and Miami are on the way. We are therefore at seven “macarons”, with more easily on the way. He is never still, after all one of his favorite thoughts brings together planning and concreteness, «The secret of success is getting up in the morning and going to bed at night doing what we have decided to do in the middle he explains with a convinced smile.

The Green Cat and Jessica Rosval

The Green Gatto is currently in pole position: a charming place, a French bistro atmosphere, but with a wood-fired oven and embers to provide (and create) heat. But it is the cuisine that makes the difference, entrusted to the Canadian expert Jessica Rosval who serves precise, fun and delicious dishes: baked tortellino, au gratin in a wood-fired oven with 36-month Parmigiano Reggiano cream such as fassona short ribs, marigold flowers, apricot and Yorkshire Pudding. «We thought about taking food out of the fire to bring it onto the fire, in order to create something unique. And with her North American culture, Jessica has been able to reinterpret territoriality: it is no coincidence that she has been in the Family and in Modena for a decade underlines Bottura, chef of the world and in the world. She told us her visions of her, never banal and which look far into the future. «In my future there will always be a future she repeats. And she doesn’t bluff.

How to eat at the Osteria Francescana di Bottura – Italian Cuisine

Together with fifteen chefs of the past, they are the authors of the new revolutionary menu of the most beloved chef of the moment. How and what to eat at the three Michelin stars

There are at least three excellent reasons for wanting to go toOsteria Francescana in Modena from Massimo Bottura. Which are the same ones I've been going there for since I met him about twenty years ago. One: he is one of the greatest contemporary chefs, capable, to say the least, of making tortellini on the little finger as his grandmother used to do, as well as crunchy foie gras. Two: the challenges amuse him. Give him a banana peel and a leftover bacon and he returns with a carbonara he never tasted before (he did it at the Rio de Janeiro Olympics. Three: when no chef had thought of it yet, he invented the Refettorio, the event that involves cooking and art to offer a beautiful and good table to those in need. And then of course there is him, who while he gives you some very good things to eat, makes you reflect on how you can see in Covid time given for think and create, not just a disaster.

(ph Nicole Marnati)

New menu at the Osteria Francescana

So now there is yours at the Franciscan new menu of which we talk a lot: seventeen courses born from the interpretation of as many recipes by the chefs who have made the history of Italian gastronomy from the 1960s to today. Title: "With a little help from my friends". The friends who gave him "a little help", a little / big help, are the beloved Beatles who inspired him with the psychedelic cover of "Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band ", in addition to having lent him the title of the menu, and the boys of his brigade, a formidable mix of ethnic groups, with which he immersed himself in those mythical recipes and four months later he emerged with his interpretation of the cuisine Contemporary. But be careful, because “interpreting” here does not simply mean rethinking with a contemporary mentality but daring to have total poetic license.

Let me explain. The "Onion Dark"(Fourth course of the menu) dated 1990, by Salvatore Tassa– an onion emptied, baked and filled with a puree of its pulp – has become a sheet of dough mixed with onion, rolled and toasted in the oven: "To honor the onion", says Bottura, "poor food that has fed generations". Because a food can also be an ideological manifesto.

The brown background of the Risotto by Nino Bergese (course n.9), former chef of the Royal House who landed in Genoa in the 1960s – that is, kilos of fine meat reduced to a few ladles and then thrown away – becomes a light broth of toasted rice. Because today luxury is no longer waste.

A sumptuous dish like the "Sirloin of San Domenico"From 1975 (course n.7), larded with smoked bacon and cooked with butter at the maître d'Hotel, also from Bergese undergoes an even more drastic treatment: the veal becomes a slice of aubergine, the pancetta pulverized vegetables, the butter a herb sauce. It used to be a dish for rich carnivores, now it's a vegetarian delicacy. Sometimes the leap is conceptual.

In 2005 Fulvio Pierangelini invents the Scallops stuffed with mortadella “But for me stuffing means ravioli and ravioli means container of ideas”, says Bottura. And here (course n.6) some ravioli mixed with mortadella, steamed like Chinese dumplings, placed on a circle of green apple, served with a smoked fennel chowder. And so, for thirteen other dishes.

But don't expect scenographic presentations: here the technique is at the service of sublimation of the raw material, not the cook's ego. The courses, in their naked elegance, leave you astonished only when they arrive on the palate.

In the end, you will have had a challenging experience, even mental, suitable for those who want to see at what point is the continuous evolution of a chef who never ceases to amaze us. Three, four hours at the table, 290 euros, plus 190 if you choose the pairing with wines. But if you would like to get to know it in a more relaxed way, you can always choose to eat à la carte with the entire Botturian repertoire in the Franciscan style. Or book in one of his other personifications. For which I refer you to the next chapter.

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