In Poland or in the Marches there are no special occasions to eat galantine, the most enviable cooked salami there is. Try the version of the Ophis Osteria in Offida!
In Umbria you only eat at Christmas. In the Marche or Abruzzo, however, there is no need for a special occasion to prepare or eat the galantine: it's always the right time. For this reason, every time you come here, especially inland, you might taste it. But its story begins elsewhere than in the places where it is set: in fact, the first time I ate galantine I was in Poland, in Krakow, in the summer of 2006.
What is galantine
The ancient origin of galantine is already evident from the name, which derives from the medieval Latin "jelly", probably referring to the fact that in the cooking of its meats it also produces and prepares the jellyin fact. In fact, it is a second dish based on White meat, especially of hen: in the past it was created to recover, use and enhance the old hen, the one that makes good broth, then combined with other ingredients that vary from recipe to recipe. To never miss are the olives, better if keep listening (intended as cultivars and not stuffed fried), proof of the fact that it is a dish mainly Piceno; then there are those who add almonds and walnuts, those of pistachios and truffle (which certainly is not lacking in the Piceno). But in reality there are really many versions of galantine, from Poland (where it is called galantyna) in Abruzzo, where they prepare it in different ways, always combining more meats together, such as chicken as documented in De Re Coquinaria of Apicius; or the capon as Pellegrino Artusi writes in Science in the kitchen and the art of eating well. "I will describe a capon in galantine made in my house and served at a dinner of ten people, but it could have been enough for twenty because, peeled, it turned out to be 1,500 kg." But there are also those who use or add turkey, duck, guinea fowl, beef, pig is baked ham, especially in the traditional version, which was done with what was there. In any case, galantine is consumed cold, cut into slices. For this reason, there are also several schools on vegetables: there are those who cut them into fine strips in order to have all the ingredients present in each slice, as well as a nice chromatic impact; who instead cubes, as in the recipe we offer you today.
Where to find it
To try the galantine, the authentic one, boned in your pocket, traditionally sewn and prepared as it once was, you must be able to be invited to a home del Piceno or the province of Teramo. Alternatively, you can often find it well done in small ones delicatessens of the village, where you can buy even a slice. But if you want to try the platonic idea of galantine, there is only one choice: theOsteria Ophis, from the Latin name of the country where it is located, Offida. Here the chef patron Daniele Citeroni Maurizi performed a miracle: from exactly twenty years his place is a flywheel that takes people to this wonderful country in the Piceno hinterland, making him try the highest version of some local dishes, such as pizza Who who, the mixed fried Ascoli or the Chicken 'ncip' ngciap with peppers, an onomatopoeic name that recalls the repeated sound of the knife that cuts the chicken into pieces. And then, among these, the galantine certainly stands out, which he accompanies with a delicious gardener and a series of mayonnaises prepared by him. The following recipe (which is his personal version) is taken from his book Piceno cuisine, a well-made, technical and spontaneous tribute, with all the dishes to which he is particularly attached.
Galantine is a dish that is anything but simple or quick, for this reason it was prepared only on important occasions. So, if you decide to try your hand, make sure you have time and above all patience, besides considering that the first attempt could be a failure. Daniele's advice is to separate the preparation of the galantine from that of the accompanying jelly, that is, to avoid boiling everything together to better enhance the flavor of this dish in all its parts.
1 boneless hen
carcass of 1 hen plus some veal bones
1 fresh egg
2 boiled eggs
500 g minced chicken, turkey and veal
150 g diced carrots
150 g diced celery
50 g brunoise onion
50 g tender stoned olives
20 g peeled and toasted almonds
20 g toasted walnuts
50 g Parmesan cheese
salt and pepper to taste
Immerse the chicken carcass, the veal bones and some vegetables for the filling in a nice saucepan full of cold water and bring to the boil, reducing everything by 80%. Attention to salt and pepper: do not put in abundance from the beginning, since you must consider that then the broth will have to be reduced. This way you got the jelly.
Start working the old queen of the courtyard by opening it well on a sheet of parchment paper, then add a pinch of salt and pepper. In the meantime, prepare the filling by mixing and seasoning the minced white meat with vegetables, dried fruit, olives, parmesan, salt, pepper and a fresh egg, which will serve as a binder (even if in reality the white meat already contains albumin, a natural binder).
Subsequently the filling should be positioned "salami" along the two thighs, while in the center we insert the eggs split in half (a slice of black truffle is not bad). Wrap everything in parchment paper and tied with a string.
Slow cooking in the oven will make the meat tender and juicy: 140 ° -150 ° for an hour and a half at 90% humidity. If you are not equipped with an oven for steaming, I recommend placing a pot of water on the bottom of the oven, in order to guarantee the right humidity.
Once cooked, let the galantine rest. As soon as it is lukewarm, remove it from the parchment paper and let it cool well in the refrigerator overnight. The next day you will have what he calls "the most enviable typical cooked salami of modern tables".
Needless to say, the recommended accompaniment is with a Pecorino di Offida (I prefer Poderi San Lazzaro, San Filippo and Clara Marcelli), grape variety with which this country and its dishes have a deep and inseparable bond.