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His Majesty the Persian, king of freshwater fish – Italian Cuisine


When it comes from our lakes, it is one of the best fish products ever. Fried or sautéed in butter, to be enjoyed simply, in risotto or in refined recipes like Cesare Battisti's. Strongly recommended to those who only eat sea fish …

It is a countdown for those who love the perch, the good one that is fished in the major northern lakes: on May 20th ends the (very right) biological rest that began on April 15th. And the cooks like Cesare Battistthe – patron of the Milanese Ratanà – are ready to interpret it at its best. Because we are talking about a great fish product, not yet known by everyone, but that drives lovers crazy. «And you can immediately start enjoying it – explains Battisti – because it makes no sense to fish it near the catch, as the females are full of eggs. But in a few days we will already find excellent ones . Every cook has his own preferences about the perch of the four great lakes, Battisti prefers the Garda one because it does not give problems of quantity ("I need 50 to 80 kg per week, in season") and lives in cleaner waters – according to the latest analysis – than the Lario, Ionian and Verbania ones. "It is a fish out of the ordinary, it cannot be bred and it is a predator so it feeds only on fishes: hence a unique consistency of the meat, a surprising sweetness and a flavor that conquers," explains the chef.

Now it is also in fishmongers

Battisti has great merit: he was the first to propose freshwater fish under the Madonnina, in a modern way, practically with at least one recipe in the Ratanà card. And in ten years it has become one of the masters of a kitchen, often underestimated for its geographical limitation, not easy but which gives great emotion. "One thing that pleases me is the possibility, once unthinkable, of finding trout and perch even in the fish ponds of the city. Obviously I buy directly from the fishermen, but at least it is possible for an enthusiast not to be forced to go to the lakes to recover the raw material . Among the dishes that Battisti prefers, there is the Zfreshwater fish uppa which he proposes to readers of La Cucina Italiana. «I have a historical passion for all the versions with sea fish and therefore I have reasoned on how to interpret it with lacustrine raw material. The important thing is that it is very fresh, so as to maintain light fragrances, and it is cooked excessively: the result is formidable, it surprises those who have never tasted it

Battisti's advice

We take advantage of Battisti for some advice on how to prepare the perch. "The classic butter and sage requires cooking at very low temperatures, making the first foam without burning it because the fillets must be soft and not crunchy. Obviously never save on butter that must be natural, in the short term. Sage leaves should be put only at the end, when the butter will become nutty, raising the temperature in pans a little. " Also widespread is the fried version, passed in flour and egg – they become practically pancakes. or by adding bread (also panko, lately) and always in the egg. At Ratanà a special recipe is prepared where the perch is accompanied by a sauce made from the comic strip (head, thorn and skin of the fish itself) and pulled with saffron. Alongside a mashed potato with grated cedar, to remember the Garda. But for Battisti, the "death" of the perch is with the big rice: a popular recipe on Lake Como, often not prepared as it should be. "The best rice for me is Carnaroli but Vialone Nano is also fine, it is cooked with half a clove of garlic in shirt and large butter – he explains – when you jump, you add the fresh chopped sage. For 60 g of rice, we put four fish fillets. The important thing is that the rice is shelled, rubbed with butter and once the dish is finished, no seasoning remains on the bottom. A not easy recipe that gives great satisfaction to those who taste it but also to those who prepare it

Fresh water fish soup
Ingredients for four people

1 kg and ½ kg of assorted lake fish (birds, perch, whitefish, trout, with three or four freshwater prawns if desired)
2 anchovies
1 onion
1 clove of garlic
1 bunch of basil
3 ripe tomatoes – if you are not in season 1 tablespoon of concentrate

Preparation
Clean and bone the fish, leaving the fillets aside.
With bones, skin and head, prepare a comic (small stock) of fish and, when it is reduced,
add the tomato.
Meanwhile, next, take a casserole and with a little extra virgin olive oil e
1 clove of garlic, brown the anchovy fillets until they are dissolved.
Add the chopped onion, sprinkle with 1 glass of white wine and place it
inside all the fish fillets and the comic strip.
Add salt and pepper to taste, cover and cook for about 10-12min.
After that, taking care not to break the fillets, drain them and place them on a plate
bottom. If necessary, reduce the broth a little more and then sprinkle the fillets with the liquid
boiling. Perfume with a basil leaf and accompany with bread crusts.

And here instead the great classic, the recipe for risotto with perch from La Cucina Italiana

What wine to combine with fish soup? – Italian Cuisine


As a poor dish, which the sailors prepared with less valuable fish or with those that had broken into the nets, the fish soup it has become a refined delicacy. Virtually every region that faces the sea has its own recipe, which often varies from province to province and even from municipality to municipality. Among the best known, there are the cacciucco livornese, served on toasted bread, the Ancona brodetto, which includes 13 types of fish for 13 diners in memory of the last dinner, those of the Abruzzo coast, the Sicilian fish soup, enriched with black olives and capers, and the quatàra of Porto Cesareo, which takes its name from the copper cauldron in which is cooked. Usually fish soups they have a tomato sauce, but the variations in white are not missing.
The choice of wine to pair with fish soup can change depending on the preparation, but the regional combination is always a winning option. Thus, the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is perfect with the Ancona brodetto and the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo are suitable for the soups of Chieti and Vasto. Not only white and pink wines are to be chosen, but also some light reds, to be brought to the table fresh.

Here are our 10 choices:

whites
Verdicchio dei Castelli of Jesi Classic Reserve Vigna the Song of Figure 2016 – Andrea Felici
Verdicchio is the wine that classically accompanies the Marche soups. This cru, produced by Andrea Felici in the Apiro area, is among the best in the denomination. Try it at least once.
43 euros

Offida Pecorino Merlettaie 2018 – Ciù Ciù
Pecorino, a native vine, widespread between the Marche and Abruzzo, gives whites of character and the right body to accompany the fish soups of Central Italy. That of Ciù Ciù is certified organic.
11 euros

Grechetto Fiorfiore 2017 – Roccafiore Winery
This warm and soft white comes from Umbria, characterized by intense aromas of tropical fruit, citrus fruits and herbs. The aging in wood gives it a creamy and enveloping taste, refreshed by a savory note on the finish.
17 euros

Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Monteoro 2018 – Sella & Mosca
A Vermentino that smells of sun and sea, with a fruity flavor and intriguing nuances of Mediterranean herbs. What can you imagine better to accompany a fish soup in white?
16 euros

Greco di Tufo Quattroventi 2017 – Petilia
With the maceration of the grapes on the skins, Petilia produced this year a wine full of determination and character. It smells of orange blossoms, hawthorn and has a fresh and savory taste, with an almond finish.
18 euros

Rosati
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Gianni Masciarelli 2018 – Masciarelli
It is a really pleasant Cerasuolo with fresh notes of cherry and currant and a smooth taste, which blends well with the slightly spicy taste of certain fish soups.
7.50 euros

Susumaniello Rosato The Rails 2018 – The Pastini
A pink wine with a captivating and delicate taste, born in Valle d’Itria, the Apulian area that gives the most delicate whites and rosés. Produced with the rare native grape variety Susumaniello, it smells of rose and strawberry.
8.50 euros

Idea Rosa di Primitivo 2018 – Varvaglione
Juicy, elegant, intriguing and just presented on the market. The novelty of the Varvaglione house is a rose wine with a strong Apulian character, which will win you over for its freshness and ease of drinking.
12 euros

Rossi
Lake Caldaro Classico Superiore Leuchtenberg 2018 – Caldaro Winery
Can a mountain red accompany a seafood dish? When it comes to a slave of Lake Caldaro, there is no doubt. Fragrant and spicy, it should be served at 12-14 ° C.
11 euros

Pinot Nero Sciaranera 2016 – Duca di Salaparuta
Pinot Noir, here in a simple and everyday version, can be a fascinating companion to fish soups with a stronger flavor. Also in this case, play with the temperatures and serve it cool, at 14 ° C.
13.50 euros

fish eggs and recipes to taste them – Italian Cuisine


Those of sturgeon are the most famous and valuable, but there are other types of fish eggs that can be used in many dishes, from appetizers to desserts

In technical terms, the fish eggs they are the female gametes of sea fish, fresh water, crustaceans and sea urchins. We discover the most widespread in the kitchen and how to use them in many recipes.

Caviar

The most famous fish eggs in the world (and also the most expensive) are those of sturgeon. The caviar, the product that comes from the processing of these eggs, very often is consumed alone, perhaps on a tart with just a little butter, to enhance the taste. It is also used in combination with the salmon, with the hard boiled eggs and in shirt, in a first course like the carbonara alla French or in a dessert like this panna cotta with Greek yogurt and even there are those who used it to dress one Pizza.

Salmon roe

The salmon eggs are red, with a very strong taste and a delicious aroma of blue fish. They contain a large quantity of Omega 3 and therefore do very well for our body. They can be consumed on canapes for a colorful and delicious appetizer, or they can be used to garnish a risotto, a soup, to give taste and delicacy to one velvety, or prepared in these crepes Russian style with yogurt.

Lompo eggs

It's "poor relatives”Of caviar, aesthetically very similar, but with a decidedly less characteristic taste. They are typical of Danish cuisine and can be eaten both raw and cooked along with other fishery products. They can be used, for example, to stuff people ravioli, with spaghetti, tagliolini. They are perfect for preparing quick snacks, canapés and bruschettas, and their sour-sweet flavor is perfect for unusual combinations (with oranges for example) and tasty flavor contrasts to bring to the table: above the boiled eggs halved or sliced, with i shrimps or together with other fish or other seafood.

The other fish eggs

There are also other fish eggs, perhaps less famous, but still very good. Let's start with the herring eggs, very widespread in Japan, with a characteristic yellow color, they are enclosed in the placenta. Very good are the spaghetti with herring eggs to prepare with the tomatoes and the risotto with lime. Very similar in flavor and shape are the cod eggs, which are also very common in Japan, where they are cooked on the grill or grilled. In Sweden, on the other hand, they are dried and form one spreadable pasta, to eat on bread.

The bottarga

There bottarga is derived from the drying and subsequent salting of mullet eggs (the common mullet) or di tuna. It can be used in the kitchen in many ways: cut into thin slices and spread on toasted bread, grated on plates, in tasty appetizers of fish, in the famous recipe with i spaghetti, in combination with other fish such as mullet, sea bream, sea bass and prawns, or in a very tasty chicken with lemon to try absolutely.

Carp fish eggs

The carp fish eggs they are yellow and of medium size, they are found united in the placenta or shelled according to the level of maturation. They are widespread in Greece, where they are called tarama and are used to prepare the famous one taramosalata: a dish consisting of tarama with lemon juice, bread crumbs, onion and olive oil, very tasty. In Italy these eggs are instead used mainly with the fresh pasta or in fish soup.

Sea urchin eggs

The eggs of sea ​​urchin they are yellow-orange or reddish. They are a very precious food, they are eaten especially raw, in many first dishes and in sophisticated recipes, like this one with the burrata and the egg yolk.