Tag: Eugenio

The perfect consommé (based on capon) for Eugenio Boer – Italian Cuisine

The perfect consommé (based on capon) for Eugenio Boer

From one of the best exponents of neo-classicism, the recipe for preparing a great broth that enhances stuffed pasta and is also pleasant in the cup. The secret? Proper clarification

Not everything does broth, rather. One who agrees with us is definitely one Eugenio Boer, chef-patron of the Bu: r restaurant in Milan who has always had a passion for broth comme il faut even in previous experiences. “I was lucky: my grandmother did it carefully even when it wasn't Sunday and it made me happy. Never experienced the sensation of broth as something banal or hospital-like. I have always experienced it as a dish, enriched with pasta or rice. And I carried within the memory of the gesture , says the chef born in Rapallo, but with a Dutch surname. From good family habits to the profession, which he began at a very young age around Europe. With clear ideas when the gelling and deconstruction of the 2000s they seemed to relegate the classic broths – France and the East aside, with their centuries-old traditions – to culinary antiques. Instead, for five years, there has been a return to the topic.

Beware of impurities

«As we go more and more towards a light and natural cuisine, I think there is ample room for broths, as long as they are well prepared, continues the chef. “That's why I want the clear broths, crystalline aesthetically perfect and with a clean taste: makes the difference compared to a normal or poorly prepared preparation. Even during the service in the dining room, all the broths are served at the last to have the right temperature according to the accompaniment ". Boer puts theory into practice, starting with clarified broth, the consommé as the French call it: decidedly tasty and concentrated in aromas and nuances. He gave us the recipe: it is not complicated, but it requires attention ("you must always remove impurities during cooking") and the right time. But it's worth it, thinking about the advantage of stocking up on broth to freeze – ice bags are fine – for later use.

The Morozzo Capon

A broth that goes very well with stuffed pasta. We mention two, above average. The first, historical, behind the name (coincidentally) of Capon of Morozzo hides a miscellany of cappelletti in broth, which brings together the whole bird (for the record, the first Slow Food Presidium) and its ideal preparations under sheets of pasta. There are four fillings: the breast at low temperature, the thigh with the skin dried in cooking oil, the wings stewed with mushrooms and the Tuscan giblets with red wine, capers and anchovies. While the bones end up in a flavored broth (with anise, cognac and flavorings), clarified with the meat and beaded with extra virgin, which is poured from a teapot. Pure enjoyment.

An author's reinterpretation

Instead, the Boiled in its own broth: five cappelletti, each with a different filling of a specific cut of the boiled meat (biancostat, tongue, head, cotechino and hen) and covered with green pasta obtained with a cold extract of parsley. The cappelletti – dipped in capon broth – are seasoned with parsley oil, capers and anchovies, aimed at recalling the classic green sauce. Boer added a red ravioli made with tomato flour and peppers, with Cremona mustard inside. A greedy reinterpretation of the Italian tradition, which requires a high level hand like that of Boer. But the his broth is also the perfect companion to meat tortellini: this is proved by the success of the dish that is part of the (successful) delivery managed by the chef with his partner Carlotta Perilli. It must be said that in every city there are excellent pasta factories as in homes there is no shortage of Italians (or Italians) who know how to prepare stuffed pasta. The problem is the broth: so study the recipe.


For the broth
1 Morozzo capon, 3 carrots, 3 celery sticks, 3 onions, 8 Sawarak black peppercorns, 2 cloves, 5 juniper berries.

For clarification
500 g minced beef, 4 egg whites, 5 black Sawarak peppercorns, 2 cloves, 5 juniper berries, 4 cl of dried marsala, 4 cl of brandy, 100 g of carrot cut into mirepoix, 100 g of celery cut into mirepoix, 100 g of copper onion cut into mirepoix.

The recipe told by Boer

«After having washed all the vegetables well, cut the onions in half and roast them in a non-stick pan until they are toasted only on one side. Then the other vegetables provided for the broth are coarsely cut and the breasts of the capon are taken and set aside. The vegetables and the capon are placed cold in a large pot, covered with about 5 liters of water and ignited over a moderate flame. When it comes to a boil, the impurities are removed with a skimmer and the heat is reduced. After four hours of cooking, filter everything and cool it (preferably in a blast chiller) to eliminate any fat. In the meantime, the clarification is being prepared by combining all the ingredients required plus the minced capon breasts with a knife in a meatloaf. Once this is done, put the cooled broth and the mixture into a saucepan: light it over moderate heat, making sure to always mix so that the meatloaf does not stick to the bottom of the pot. When the broth is about to come to a boil and the mixture has hardened on the surface (it must never break) with a ladle make a hole in the center so that it can simmer, slowly venting and taking an intense amber color. Turn off the heat, waiting for the solid mixture to settle on the bottom and filter gently, always without breaking the meatloaf. Remember to adjust each liter of clarified broth with 8 g of salt and that when it is heated – after defrosting it – it must never come to a boil .

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The important thing is to marinate (well): Eugenio Roncoroni's advice – Italian Cuisine

The important thing is to marinate (well): Eugenio Roncoroni's advice

The pleasure of giving an extra touch to meat or fish, before cooking. The chef of Al Mercato Steaks & Burgers is a great lover of marinades, with a vision that is not only Italian. Here are five exclusive recipes to try immediately

The international vision has never lacked a Eugenio Roncoroni, a Milanese chef who became famous for creating in Milan, together with his friend Beniamino Nespor, who unfortunately passed away, the concept of the author's hamburger, in a restaurant in via Sant’Eufemia 16, opened in 2011: Al Mercato, which was a gourmet space and a burger bar. The first experiment in Italy of imported street food, bordering on the Michelin Star. Just a decade later, the 38-year-old chef is at the helm of a concept articulated on two locations because At the Steaks & Burgers Market has kept the historic headquarters – totally renovated and in old American style – and opened a second one in Corso Venezia 18, where Tartufi & Friends was up until a few months ago. «Thanks to a passionate entrepreneur like Marcello Rezza, I decided to introduce the real overseas BBQ to show that there is not only the Argentine or Italian grill, he explains.

The "dry massage"

As the sign says, alongside the old love, there are therefore steaks. Which are love anyway, considering the very close Roncoroni's link with the States: Californian mother, sister-in-law (and colleague) from North Carolina, four years lived in San Francisco. Having said that the inspiration to classic American steakhouses has not deprived Roncoroni of the innate pleasure of merging multiple gastronomic cultures (ranging from the foie gras torchon to the cinnamon rose cake passing through the vegetables cooked with kamado, the Japanese charcoal grill), the heart of the offer are the burgers and steaaks. In the second case, the chef's hand is exalted starting from the marinades. One in particular is innovative for Italian clubs: the dry-rub, literally "dry massage " It is a way of flavoring meat if you do not want to grease it excessively or leave it to soak in a liquid. The name derives from the actual massage that allows you to apply this blend, which has a more or less codified recipe, but leaves ample room for personal interpretation.

Beware of experiments

They couldn't help but ask for it secret recipe to Roncoroni, who gave us others four author marinades, not just for meat. With some general advice: «The first time, follow the recipe carefully, especially when there are delicate meats that should never be overwhelmed. Next, you can start the experiments by adding the amount of one element you particularly like or taking away another that doesn't excite you. The correct marinades must be prepared at least 12 hours before, the ideal is in the evening before use so they rest peacefully in the refrigerator. Only those on vegetables can stay at room temperature . The game is fun, it tests the cook's ability to treat the product and enhance its characteristics. "Kitchen purists say that good meat and fish should not be touched in the slightest, for me they can always be improved", underlines Roncoroni. Okay: but the important thing is to marinate (well). Here are the recipes, designed for four people.

Dry marinade – Dry Rub for grilled beef


200 g of sweet paprika, 50 g of black pepper powder, 10 g of cumin powder, 20 g of brown sugar, 50 g of butter, a bunch of aromatic herbs, 4 cloves of poached garlic.


Mix the spices, massage the meat for about 10 minutes and let it rest for about 12 hours in the fridge. Heat in a pan (cast iron if possible) and melt the butter with the garlic and the aromatic bunch. When the butter turns nutty, cook the meat (ideal 200g sirloin steaks) once per side until the desired cooking is achieved. Toss with butter and let the meat rest for about 5 minutes, covered with a sheet of aluminum foil.

Liquid Marinade – Jerk Pork Belly


250 ml of apple cider vinegar, one star anise, two heads of garlic, 50 ml of lime juice, one stick of cinnamon, 100 g of sugar, 150 ml of coconut oil, 20 g of black pepper powder, one white onion.


Mix the ingredients in a bowl and marinate the meat for about 12 hours. The ideal cut is pork belly (to be cut into four strips of about 100 g each, with a thickness of 1.5 cm), but the procedure is also suitable for chicken. Bake at 100 degrees in the marinade for about 3 hours. Let it rest for an hour and cook over high heat, removing any excess marinade from the strips, possibly on a grill or over a direct flame. A pan over high heat can be fine though.

Fermentation Marinade – Kentucky Fried Quail


250 ml of whole yogurt, 10 ml of lemon juice, 100 ml of fresh cream, 20 g of ground pepper, 5 g of salt, 5 g of powdered "masala" curry, 200 g of rice flour, 1, 5 liters of sunflower oil.


With a whisk vigorously mix the yogurt with the cream, pepper, salt, lemon juice and "masala". Marinate the quail legs for 24 hours. Remove the excess marinade and dip the quail into the flour so that it adheres well. Fry at 160 degrees until golden brown and, if necessary, finish cooking in the oven at 200 degrees for 5 minutes.

Semi-liquid marinade – Mediterranean-style octopus


2 bay leaves, 250 ml of white wine, 5 g of fresh thyme, 20 ml of extra virgin olive oil, 5 g of coarse salt, 5 g of black olive pate, 10 ml of lemon juice.


Simmer the octopus (about 1 kg) for almost 3 hours at 70 ° with the white wine and water to cover. Dip in the marinade made by combining all the ingredients, except the lemon juice, and refrigerate for about 12 hours. Cook the octopus over high heat until the outer crust is formed and add the lemon only when cooked.

Liquid Marinade – Bangkok Style Prawns


150 ml of coconut milk, 5 ml of fish sauce, 10 g of sugar, a stick of lemongrass, a fresh chilli, a bunch of coriander, two limes, a red onion, 100 ml of sweet chili sauce , 50 g of roasted peanuts.


Clean sixteen prawns from the central shell (leaving the head and tail), cook the coconut milk for about 15 minutes with the sugar and lemongrass over high heat, combine the other ingredients with the julienned onion and marinate them in the fridge for about 2 hours pouring the hot liquid over the prawns and then covering with cling film. Serve with fresh cilantro, peanuts and lime juice.

Eugenio Boer's (mythical) Risotto Nino Bergese – Italian Cuisine

Eugenio Boer's (mythical) Risotto Nino Bergese

One of the great dishes of the 'cook of the kings' played by the chef of [bu:r], always fond of classics. A recipe set in time, a perfect example of a technique devoted to gluttony.

Eugenio Boer he is a citizen of the world who has made contamination a distinctive signature of his cooking philosophy. But for the reopening of its premises, the [bu:r] of via Mercalli 22 in Milan, decided to switch to a 100% Italian menu, made entirely with local products, given the aim of paying homage to some of the great traditional recipes and, at the same time, giving help to small producers. Logical choice for a chef native of Liguria, but Sicilian by adoption, who has traveled the peninsula far and wide, working, among other things, also in Trentino-Alto Adige with Norbert Niederkofler at St. Hubertus and in Tuscany with Gaetano Found at Arnolfo. The one that will debut from [bu:r] immediately after the lockdown it will therefore be a menu that will range from North to South with strong notes of Liguria and intense flavors characteristic of the land of the sun.

Twice steak

The setting of the card [bu:r] will remain practically unchanged, with three tasting menus, of which a slightly longer one including a mix of meat and fish, all renewed and in line with the change of season, and the choice à la carte. But the most significant novelty will be represented by the strong reference to the Italian tradition and in this the Risotto Nino Bergese: Interpretation of Boer on one of the classics of the legendary chef from Saluzzo who after being at the service of large families, in 1969 he won the double Michelin star (when in Italy it was the top, since there were no tristellate) with his local La Santa in Genoa. He repeated the recognition, in 1975, at the head of the San Domenico di Imola. "An incredible dish, which has lost none of its charm after half a century," says Boer. «He manages to express a great delicacy starting from a great school technique. I studied it in the whole recipe and updated it to the minimum ". Very well, we add.

Ingredients (for four people)

240 g of Carnaroli rice
80 g of butter
80 g of parmesan cheese 18 months
2 l of vegetable broth (celery, carrot, roasted onion, roasted tomato)
40 ml of untreated lemon juice

Bruno background
1 kg of veal bones
1 celery stick
1 celeriac
2 copper onions
3 carrots
1 garní bouquet (1 leek leaf 1 thyme sprig 1 rosemary sprig 3 sage leaves 1 bay leaf)
20 g of tomato paste
70 ml of red wine
70 ml of red port


Toast the bones in the oven at 190 degrees until the color becomes golden. Meanwhile prepare a mirepoix with all the vegetables, brown it with very little seed oil, add the tomato paste, continue to brown, add the red wine and the port, add the toasted bones – previously put in the oven – and add water until cover more than double the saucepan.

Slowly reduce on the fire with fresh thyme, filter everything, degrease and bring to the consistency of a sauce.

Toast the risotto dry and blend with dry white wine, cook it with the vegetable broth and stir in butter and Parmesan cheese keeping it in the wave, put the lemon juice and finish the stirring.

Arrange the meat sauce on a risotto and put the risotto on board.

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