Tag: eaten

The 70 euro ice cream cone is eaten in Ruvo di Puglia – Italian Cuisine

For those who travel in search of luxury food (from the beginning of June you can go back to doing it), the Mokambo ice cream shop is an essential stop. Here you can taste the King's Scepter, a 70 euro cone made only with Iranian saffron ice cream

Feeling real at the table is possible. Gualtiero Marchesi taught it to us with his Rice, gold and saffron. But a gold leaf alone, without exceptional raw materials, is nothing. Franco, Giuliana and Vincenzo Paparella know that well in their ice cream shop Mokambo, to Ruvo di Puglia, in the province of Bari, they created the King's Scepter, a 70 euro cone made with saffron ice cream, cream and edible gold. And it is not the latter, the most expensive ingredient.

Mokambo ice cream shop: from the Bourbons to the fourth generation of Paparella

The history of Gelateria Mokambo begins in 1910, when Luigi Marseglia, first apprentice, then head of pastry of the Caffè Gambrinus of Naples, moved to Ruvo di Puglia, to follow his Apulian bride. "He is the madman who infected us with this disease," says Franco Paparella. " Here he opens his Caffè Gambrinus, one of the symbolic bars of the last century in the city, and takes under his wing Vincenzo Paparella senior. Just him, on November 8, 1967, in Corso Carafa 56, opened the Bar Mokambo, where the recipes of the white art of Marseglia live. Franco and Antonio, Vincenzo's two sons, work in the restaurant. At his death, the brothers split: Antonio remains in the Bar Mokambo and Franco embarks on an adventure in the world of catering. In the nineties the bar closes, but the shared nostalgia for that exceptional ice cream does not subside. Galeotto was Facebook. A user publishes a post in which she remembers that place and its delights. The message falls under the eyes of the brothers Giuliana and Vincenzo Paparella, Antonio's sons, who began to fantasize about reopening the family ice cream shop. But the key was to convince Uncle Franco, passionate about women and engines, but above all a skilled ice cream master, to get back on track. They make it and reopen at the end of summer 2016, "a winning business choice!", Jokes Giuliana. Vincenzo takes care of marketing, his sister "steals" the profession from the long-time master and takes care of the service and production, while still today Uncle Franco – as anyone who enters the world of Mokambo calls him – shies away from photographers and does not like limelight. But he makes an ice cream that marks the taste buds on fire.

Eight "other times" ice creams and ingredients

In the wells there are eight flavors (listed by Giuliana strictly in chromatic order): Crema del Re 1840 (the recipe of 1840 handed down by Luigi Marseglia and awarded by King Ferdinando II of Bourbon), Crunchy almond nougat (with local fruits, «Ruvo it has always been a territory suited for the cultivation of almonds ", explains Giuliana), Pistachio di Bronte DOP, Hazelnut of the Langhe PGI, Gianduia PGI, Pure Chocolate (obtained from twenty different cocoa beans, selected around the world; it is proposed the single origin taste or created with a blend of beans), Truffle (i.e. the spiced variant of chocolate). Some flavors revolve throughout the year: there is the superior Coffee, the Granita di Limoni di Sorrento PGI (available from May to September), the Gelato di Gelsi rossi, the one with quince, and Nonna Lena, made with dried figs , almond flakes and 100 percent pure chocolate nuggets). Each cone is garnished with cream («rigorously fresh, of animal origin), almond grains, Pistachio di Bronte DOP, home made Meringues and cocoa beans in combination with those used for the chocolate flavor available in the cockpit in that moment.

From the Recipes of Marseille to the Book of Ciocca passing to Iranian Saffron

In the early years of the century, Luigi Marseilles himself collaborated with the sending of some of his recipes to the drafting of the volume The modern confectioner and confectioner, written by Giovanni Ciocca, probably one of the most famous pastry chefs of the 20th century. Some of these recipes included the use of exclusive ingredients such as saffron, in fact, in that period common only in the kitchens of the most important families. The diffusion of this ingredient "to the general public" dates back to 1860 thanks to the introduction by the cavalier Giuseppe Alberti of the Strega liqueur. It is in fact this spice that gives the characteristic chicken color to the Benevento liqueur.

King's Scepter.
King's Scepter.

Because this is the best saffron

Saffron is evaluated on the basis of 3 parameters: the coloring power, given by the crocina, the odorous one, given by the safranal, and the bittering one, given by the picrocrocina. The comparative values ​​of saffron grown in Italy and that used at the Mokambo ice cream parlor are clear. The Iranian saffron chosen by the Paparella team contains 233 nm of crocin, therefore it has a more intense color than what is known as cat 1. in ISO3632, which has 190 nm. The amount of safranel in saffron of 1 cat. in ISO3632 it is 70 nm; the Iranian one used by Mokambo reaches 100 nm. So it has a more intense scent. The saffron picrocrocina of 1 cat. in ISO3632 it is between 20 and 50 nm, while the Iranian one reaches 35 nm. "The main difference between made in Italy saffron and what we use is the bitter note, very marked, that metallic flavor of the spice", explains Giuliana Paparella. «The first taste of our saffron ice cream is slightly metallic, but then immediately begins to release citrus and floral notes. If the Italian saffron costs a third compared to the Iranian saffron there is a reason ". The price of the Italian spice stands at around 20 euros per gram, compared to 60-70 euros for that coming from Iran.

A precious friendship

The arrival of the current Iranian saffron in the hands of Uncle Franco and Giuliana is thanks to Giuseppe Ladisa and Yuki D'Innocenzo, two glocal adventurers from Bari, who in their spare time hunt for gourmet and not. During a Sunday in the Murgian hills, Yuki finds the Mokambo ice cream shop on TripAdvisor. "At the time, it only had 15 reviews," recalls the girl of Italian-Japanese origins. «I have read them all, carefully, and I have said to Giuseppe" Why don't we make a jump to Ruvo? ". Fighting skepticism, the two head towards the town of the North Bari area and fall in love with ice cream, the sympathy of the Paparella bros and the sagacity of Uncle Franco. They come back many more times. During one of their tastings, they say they are about to leave for Iran. Giuliana does not miss the opportunity and asks these two customers, now friends, to bring her some "real" saffron. During the trip Yuki and Giuseppe inquire about the production area and keep in touch with the ice cream shop. Having found the right product («because in Iran the level of counterfeiting is very high, explains Yuki), they buy it and deliver it to the ice cream makers, who obtain a truly unique taste. "In Iran they make saffron ice cream with pieces of pistachio or rose water. But they bring in a lot of guar gum, which makes it kind of like a chewing gum, "says Giuliana, who has done much better.

The ingredients

To do it King's Scepter they serve freshly milked milk (from the Altamura area, more precisely from the Santa Maria dell’Assunta farm in the Alta Murgia National Park), eggs, sugar and, of course, saffron. To taste it, you have to book the taste three days in advance, necessary to organize the processing. The infusion of saffron alone is around four hours. "We use the upper part, more noble than the highest pistil (each crocus has three, ed.), The sargol", explains Giuliana. In addition, saffron must be used at a not too high temperature. After a 15-minute freezing in the historic Carpigiani SED L20c of 1972, the saffron ice cream is ready to be mounted on the cone. After filling the bottom of the waffle with cream and three Pistachios from Bronte DOP, add the ice cream and a layer of fresh cream. It would not be a real royal scepter without a little precious metal: in fact, the composition closes with a sheet of edible gold and some flakes of caramelized sugar. The King's Scepter it costs 70 euros per cone. It can be purchased only on order and for a minimum of two cones. An entire bowlishalf a kilo costs between 450 and 500 euros. As with all other flavors, you can also receive it at home. The tasting is elegant, velvety. On contact with the palate, the citrus scents free the imagination: we are in the A thousand and one nights and the Orient can almost be touched, even from a small town in Puglia.

Text Stefania Leo

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what was eaten in Renaissance Rome – Italian Cuisine

A guided tour in the heart of Trastevere to live an authentic gastronomic experience, immersed in the Roman Renaissance

Rome, in addition to having had its period of greatness in ancient times, during the Renaissance, was a destination for architects and artists who changed the history of art forever.

Precisely in their works there are precious ideas for reconstructing the eating habits of that period. For this tour we will be guided by the places and history of two great protagonists of this period, but of two different moments: Raffaello Sanzio (1483 – 1520) and (Francesco Borromini 1599 – 1667).

Admire the frescoes of Raphael in Villa Farnesina

Our journey begins at Villa Farnesina, the first suburban home in the 16th century.

In 1505 Agostino Chigi, a rich Sienese banker and well-known patron and art dealer, bought a large plot of land on the banks of the Tiber in Rome. At that time the Trastevere area was considered extra urban and Agostino chose it precisely to build a residence far from the bustling city center. Villa Chigi, so called before its current name due to the transfer of ownership to Cardinal Alessandro Farnese at the end of the 16th century, was the first "suburban villa" in Rome and immediately became a Renaissance architectural model. Several elements converged in it which were then copied to many other homes of the time, such as his luxuriant garden, which went all the way to the banks of the Tiber, and to his own extraordinary frescoes, created by the greatest artists of the time such as Raffaello, Peruzzi and Sodoma.

The most famous part of the villa is the loggia entrance, designed by Raffaello Sanzio as a pergola to ideally connect the interiors with the garden and the river seamlessly, creating a sort of optical illusion.
Raphael thought in detail all the frescoes in the loggia and concentrated on the realization of the imposing cycle of the stories of Cupid and Psyche, then identifying Giovanni da Udine as his most suitable pupil to paint the ornamental botanical festoons that divide the various pictorial scenes.
This decorative motif, made in 1517, in addition to being a representation of the outdoor garden, it wanted to be a mirror of all the varieties that can be used and appreciated at that time, including those from America, discovered just twenty years earlier.

Raphael's frescoes in the loggia of Villa Farnesina, 1517.
Raphael's frescoes in the loggia of Villa Farnesina, 1517.

Several documents attest that this can be considered the oldest document of the introduction of the plants brought back by Colombo to Europe.
An exceptional testimony to the biodiversity of fruits and vegetables known in Europe afterwards the discovery of the New World, a figurative inventory of over 170 plant species.
An enormous variety of spontaneous and cultivated plants, from the most common such as elderberry or the inflorescence of fennel to flowers such as roses, lilies, irises and anemones, or vegetables such as artichokes, cabbage, carrots and turnips.
Among the vegetables we also note the species imported from America such as the yellow pumpkin, the zucchini and some corn on the cob corn.
Having said that, there are also some great absentees that we would expect to see represented: the potato, which at the time had not yet been imported since Columbus never met it in his travels, but was discovered by the Spanish Pizarro in the second half of the sixteenth century . As well as tomatoes, which were not represented because they were introduced to Europe in the second half of the sixteenth century, and which were not immediately lucky as they were considered fruits of a poisonous plant (for its large amount of solanine) and used for several centuries only as ornamental plant.

Discover the ancient Trastevere ovens

In those days Trastevere was not the romantic neighborhood and a bit radical today, but a popular suburban suburb known above all for the artisan shops and for the numerous ovens that produced bread throughout Rome.
Raffaello Sanzio, while working on the frescoes of Villa Farnesina, fell in love with Margherita Luti, daughter of a baker, who had a shop right in the house just beyond the Porta Settimiana, at the crossroads with Via Santa Dorotea. Raphael's infatuation with the beautiful young woman from Trastevere finds testimony in his famous painting dated 1518 The fornarina, which also portrays the same subject of another of his famous works The veiled.
Still today you can see the window from which the fornarina appeared to appear, in the house with a typical Roman garden inside, where until a short time ago there was the historic Osteria Romolo.

If you want to try some of the most authentic gastronomic experiences in Trastevere, the advice is to go to some of the most traditional ovens: for historic sweets Innocenti biscuit factory, while for the classic Roman pizza al fIno La Renella. To try a truly unique experience go to the church of Santa Barbara: next to it, a little hidden, there is the filettaro, a tiny centenary tavern: it seems that its battered and fried cod fillets are unmatched.

Where to try a Renaissance menu

Heading from the house of the fornarina towards via Garibaldi, which leads to the Gianicolo, on the corner (coincidentally) with via dei Panieri, we find the Il Ferro e il Fuoco restaurant with a modern look, which however hides a truly unique menu, inspired by the ancients Renaissance recipes.
Chef Emidio Gennaro Ferro together with Elena Prandelli, manager of the hotel that houses the restaurant and a great lover of history and gastronomy, have created a very interesting gastronomic journey through the careful study of the dishes of the time between the late fifteenth and mid-seventeenth centuries.

Starting with the aperitif based on rose water, a very popular drink at the time, obtained by filtering rose petals and adding Malvasia, one of the most common wines in Italy during the Renaissance.

The first course of the tasting menu includes a small one pie with white meat sauce and truffle sauce.
It should be noted that at the end of the fifteenth century, thanks to the tastes of the de 'Medici, one of the most popular dishes in the noble courts was the shortcrust pastry with pigeon ragout. In fact, the pigeon was considered the animal closest to heaven, therefore to God, and therefore reserved only for the nobility and the upper classes. Fish, on the contrary, was considered the most impure food, precisely because it lived in water, a world in opposition to the celestial world.
The people ate legumes, vegetables and, when possible, meat from domestic chickens and pigs.

The second course of the tasting menu is a dish of gnocchi with fresh cheese, butter and sage. The dough is made only with water, flour and fresh cheese, strictly without potatoes, since at the time they had already been imported from America, but used only as an ornamental plant. Only in the late seventeenth century they began to appreciate the qualities of the tuber and to consume them also in the kitchen.

The cockerel with bitter oranges, rose water, spinach and crushed celeriac, is a recipe faithful to the original found in Book of Arte Coquinaria by the master Martino da Como, the most famous cook of the second half of the fifteenth century.
An emblematic dish, mirror of the flavors of the time, which they found in thebitter-sweet the most common taste. This was due to the methods of preserving the food: with salt, sugar (in the form of syrup or honey) or agresto (a sour dressing obtained by cooking the must of unripe grapes and by adding vinegar and spices).

Finally, the menu offers a Blancmange based on almonds, sugar and pomegranate. Almonds at the time, often in the form of almond milk, were widely used in the kitchen.

To conclude, a truly original digestive: theHypoclas. The faithful reproduction of a liqueur created at the court of Isabella de 'Medici Orsini, at the Castle of Bracciano, on which several legends of amorous murders hover. The curious antidote was based on malvasia and various spices including nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, ginger … and a curious secret ingredient with properties unknown to us: deer anal glands (fortunately not available today).

Sleep in an ancient monastery designed by Borromini

The choice of this restaurant to bring such an original gastronomic experience to life is also given by the context in which it is located: a former seventeenth-century convent, which has recently become an elegant hotel, the hotel YOU Woman Camilla Savelli.

In 1642 Donna Camilla Virginia Savelli, noble Roman woman with a strong religious vocation, but forced to marry a Farnese, commissioned to Francesco Borromini the construction of a convent in the heart of Trastevere. The famous Italian Baroque architect then designed a small church, Santa Maria dei sette dolori, still frequented by the faithful of the neighborhood, and a monastery that was to house the new order founded by Donna Savelli, the Augustinians of the seven pains.
The convent has always remained operational over the centuries, until about ten years ago, when the imposing structure was converted into an elegant hotel, where you can sleep in the ancient nun cells, now refined rooms equipped with all comforts.

Santa Maria dei Sette Dolori, designed by Francesco Borromini.
Santa Maria dei Sette Dolori, designed by Francesco Borromini.

The location of the former monastery enjoys an extraordinary view over all of Rome and hides a delightful garden inside, the ancient vegetable garden of the nuns: a true oasis of peace.
Choosing to sleep here, as well as an experience with impeccable service, is like living a thousand stories together: from the life of Donna Camilla Savelli to the charity work of the nuns in the village of Trastevere, up to to the ancient Roman cave 1st century AD, found under the convent and used by the nuns during the Second World War to hide and save some Jewish families.
Over the centuries, and during the last restoration, the most characteristic elements left by Borromini have been perfectly preserved, such as the wonderful entrance gallery with checkerboard floor, the staircase and the fountain in front of the entrance to the refectory, today called Sala Borromini.
Here the nuns ate modest meals marked by the prayers of the mother superior and, as for them, the invitation here is to listen to history, fully enjoying the flavors and atmosphere of the Italian seventeenth century.

The great pleasure of fish in winter (even more if eaten by the sea) – Italian Cuisine

The great pleasure of fish in winter (even more if eaten by the sea)

Against the clichés: soon the time comes when you can taste the best fish products of the year. And it's even more enjoyable to do it in restaurants along the coasts that remain open. In front of a unique sea, silent and for few

Even if the mixed grids and the monumental fried foods evoke the summer tables or the combined oysters-champagne (moreover, wrong on a Chablis or a very Italian Lugana) it reminds of the moonlit dinner, in reality – beyond the biological stops, which vary from region to region – it is in the coldest months of the year that most fish, crustaceans and molluscs reach the top of their form. Especially in our seas and therefore it is the advisable time to taste many species, with the certainty that they are not imported or of inferior quality. The advice to eat is derived from this and not from other reasons seafood and oysters first of all in the months with the «R, then from September to February. Even though the French have created channeling systems to keep the temperature where mussels are born low, natural cold makes the difference anyway.

The best species

The intelligent 'Eataly wheel' – the seasonality calendar, developed by Oscar Farinetti's structure – lists a large group of varieties that give the best from mid-December to March. Here they are: tuna alletato (the one on the maximum 15 kg), soace (the solids), mackerel, whiting (similar to hake), dormouse, bream, sardine, distaff, squid, anchovy, zanchetta, picarel is argentine. The last two best represent the concept of "poor fish" which, when fresh and well treated, offers tasty dishes with a low "food cost". This is why it makes absolutely sense to book a lunch in the best local fish restaurants open in the winter months (such as those in the our selection). Moreover, the seaside resorts in the winter months can be as suggestive as and more than in the holiday season. But there are many – like us, if we are allowed – who love to eat a large plate of fish, in front of a beautiful stained glass window, looking at the view.

Tavern at the Androna – Grado

In summer as in winter, the Tavernetta in the center of the lagoon town enhances the best of the Adriatic fish product. Beyond the great classics like the Padellata, it makes sense to ask for the proposals of the day, where the raw always occupy a prominent place. Large cellar of Friulian wines.

Guido – Miramare of Rimini

A few days of closure between December and the Befana, but then the seemingly simple cuisine of the Raschi family will return to this seaside resort. Fellinian atmosphere, high impact fish dishes such as grilled and marinated Spigola. But even desserts are worth the trip.

La Buca – Cesenatico

The Bartolini – father and son – are one of the great Italian fish families. Among their premises, the best known is this refined starry which is located on the canal port of Cesenatico. It is not a detail: the raw material actually travels a few meters and reaches the brigade. It is the encyclopedia of Adriatic fish cuisine.

Uliassi – Senigallia

From a three-star Michelin pizzeria: finding a table in the den of Mauro and Katia Uliassi is not easy even in the middle of winter. But try it from here to Christmas, preferably for lunch, given the terrific sea view. The kitchen? Spatial, ingenious with dishes like Gambero rosso and mandarino

Al Mare – Fano

Splendid location – it is in front of the Saxon beach – for the modern restaurant where Antonio Scarantino expresses his talent in revisiting the local cuisine, starting from the Fano brodetto. However, the classic style with the sequence of raw meats, grilled fish and Spaghettone with grilled sardines are not missing.

Vecchia Marina – Roseto degli Abruzzi

For guides (and not only) it is the best tavern in Abruzzo on the fish front. The cult are the abundant, very fresh appetizer, with many small masterpieces of taste; "Vecchia Marina" Tagliolini handmade with ancient wheat flour and dressed in white with cuttlefish, clams and scampi; the fried fish of the day. Tel. 085.8931170.

Lampare al Fortino – Trani

Incredible location for this place, overlooking the ancient heart of Trani, open up to the Befana and then from February onwards. For the record, the interior rooms in the former fort are also beautiful. Kitchen of great raw material, with an offer of crudités at the top. But there is no lack of creative dishes of good quality.

Torre del Saracino – Vico Equense

Gennaro Esposito is one of the masters of New Italian Cuisine. Always looking at the Mediterranean with great attention (and personal passion) for fish and shellfish. In the 1300 tower, "open" to the sea, you can taste – up to the Epiphany and from 12 February – masterpieces such as the fried mullet, not fried.

George – Naples

The splendid view of the gulf is likely to distract the senses from the dishes of Domenico Candela, chef of the gourmet restaurant inside the historic Grand Hotel Parker’s. Cuisine, with lots of fish in paper, where the recipes from Campania are revisited with technique and imagination. The local, newly-awarded Michelin star, closes only in January.

Pascucci at the Porticciolo – Fiumicino

Beloved by the Romans, a stone's throw from the international airport, it is the safe and refined landing place of Gianfranco Pascucci, self-taught cook with an immense passion for the sea. And you can see: the kitchen, based solely on "caught" products and recipes that aim to exalt them, either natural or with unusual combinations.

Osteria del Mare – Castiglione della Pescaia

Five years ago it was a 'serious' restaurant and was called Votapentole. Now it is a very lively tavern, managed by the same team and with the same quality of the raw material. But the cuisine is more direct, tasty and often served directly in the pan: raw red prawn parmigiana, mullet gnocchi, sardine caprese and zucchini …

La Pineta – Marina di Bibbona

From the outside it looks like a shack by the sea. Instead it is one of the most renowned fish restaurants, created by the late Luciano Zazzeri on the sand of Marina di Bibbona. Today it is Andrea and Daniele who continue the work of their father, proposing above all the classics: Tuscan, Italian, of the real sea.

Bistrot – Forte dei Marmi

Certainty of Versilia, never so perfect thanks to the touch of the new chef Andrea Mattei. Fish cuisine in all its forms, from raw to steamed, to charcoal, among historical dishes and new proposals that look to the world and to vegetables. Precious cellar with the best champagne.

Polpo Mario – Sestri Levante

An institution of the capital of the Levant, in the alley closed between the "two seas". The octopus is just one of the protagonists, interpreted in several recipes, but the kitchen offers a good Ligurian repertoire and the seafood classics, starting from an excellent mixed fry. Vermentino and Pigato reign in the valid cellar.

Il Vescovado – Noli

The sign is not accidental: it is located inside the former Episcopal Palace of the western town. A ‘bomboniera’ with a view of the sea where chef Giuseppe Ricchebuono proposes a journey through Liguria of food, proposing fish recipes at their best. From December, the place is always open.

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