Tag: curiosity

Discovering the oil of the Marche between history, myth and curiosity – Italian Cuisine


Each cultivar produces golden extra virgin olive oils with an emerald reflection with different organoleptic characteristics: fruity, harmonious on the palate, light.


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193217 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/11/statua-leopardi.jpg "width =" 96 "height =" 132That "hedge that the gaze excludes from so much horizon" described by the famous poet from Recanati, Giacomo Leopardi (on the left the photo of his statue in the square of the same name), in his composition "The Infinite" is also the expanse of olive trees that still today embraces the sacredness of Loreto and then plunges into the Adriatic sea where "shipwreck is sweet to me ".

L'olive tree from the Marche region it is also the constituent of the landscape that the writer Guido Piovene designates a synthesis of all the landscapes of the world. But, although many are persuaded that the Romans brought it between Monte Catria and Monte Vettore, it is doubtful that Ancona, a Syracusan colony, dates back to the 4th century BC. and certainly the Etruscans had penetrated, allies or even relatives of the Picenes, well before that beyond the Apennines.

The mythology of the olive tree from the Marche region

The olive tree in the Marche manifests itself in all its character agricultural and mythological value. In fact, it is said that Athena gave it to men as a pact of peace, as medicine, light and nourishment. And perhaps these hills are the territory where the plant took on its sacredness for the Mediterranean, so much so that it was then adopted by Christians and Jews as a symbol of the divine. There is no abbey – and in the Marches there are many of haunting beauty, such as Fonte Avellana in Chiaravalle di Fiastra – where the monks have not marked the territory with the olive tree or have taught the farmers to respect and exploit it. In the Marche region, in fact, the olive tree is the most widespread, so much so that they are beyond 27 thousand companies who cultivate it, covering 7 thousand hectares in the strip that goes from the hill to the sea.

The only DOP of the Marche

The Marches have valleys that run perpendicular to the coast and each has its own cultivar, thus making the territorial differences gastronomic diversity. Just think of the Ascoli style olives, a casket of drupe that hides a treasure of spices, cheese and noble meats, or alle bruschetta and desserts from Macerata based on extra virgin olive oil. But, even if these are the provinces with the highest cultivation density, it is up to Pesaro-Urbino the primacy of denominations. It is in fact a Cartoceto, enchanting village, the only PDO from the Marche region precious, unique testimony of how the extra virgin olive oil of the Marche benefits from the cultivation of the olive tree in medium altitude with the temperature variations that increase the formation of perfumes.

The other cultivars

From Vallefoglia to Lucrezia, going down to Bellocchi up to Fano, the Augustan Fanum Fortunae is a drapery of hills and olive trees. Central-Italic cultivars such as Leccino and the Crusher join in blend with the Ray to give a golden gold with emerald reflections, marked hints of green apple, armellina, mowing with a very slight influence of artichoke. But it is a fruity between light and medium, which stands out raw, especially when it meets the warmth of soups or the Fano-style brodetto, praise to the fish. And, like all extra virgin olive oils from the Marche region, not having a strong acidity, it is particularly harmonious on the palate.

The Marche PGI

And if Cartoceto enhances its olive groves after obtaining the DOP mark, the whole region has bet on the gold of the table, oil, writing 3 years ago the disciplinary of the Marches PGI. In fact, on the territory they are produced on average 38 thousand quintals of extra virgin olive oil, a rarity for three valid reasons: the oil is extracted from 10 cultivars, although there are 34 in the Region, so much so that the production of monovarietal oils; the northern position allows for an endemic olive tree cultivation and this would explain the very low acidity, given that the olives undergo strong thermal excursions and are born in various territories; there is an oil mill for each village, of which 175 are in operation. And to testify to its rarity and exceptional quality is the same story: in Ferrara at customs the oil from the Marche was twice as good as the others, in Venice even a separate register was kept.

From left: the beating of the olives in the Gabrielloni olive grove; ripe olives

The primates of the Marche

The records of the Marche are many and different, but we report at least three: the most important industry of production of olive growing machines in the world; this is where the scientific research of two universities – the Ancona Polytechnic for what concerns cultivation and production and the University of Camerino for the nutritional-pharmacological study – acted as a quality accelerator; was born in the Marche region on oil tourism, since every itinerary that climbs the hills meets extra virgin olive oil as a viaticum.

Harvesting in the Gabrielloni olive grove and washing of the olives

193218 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/11/donne-frantoio.jpg "width =" 116 "height =" 172Marche oil is "woman"

Then there is another peculiarity: the oil in the Marche is a woman. The reason? It was up to the "vergara”(Ie the wife of the sharecropper, the one who administered, the custodian of empirical agricultural science and gastronomy) to hoard. And still today it is women who manage the oil mills, since extra virgin olive oil is considered a value of the countryside. Like the sisters (in the photo on the left) Elisabetta, Sonia and Gabriella Gabrielloni who manage the family oil mill in Recanati.

A cultivar for each village

There are villages like Mogliano and Falerone that have their own cultivar (il Piantone), territories such as the Valle del Tronto that are recognized in the tender and hard olive Ascolana, cities that are characterized as Fermo with an olive, the Sargano, areas like those that from Macerata go to Camerino who live in Mignola, di Raggia, valleys such as the beautiful Esina which is the Rosciola deposit. All these cultivars are the sensory scan of the IGP specification.

Two extraction techniques

There is also another peculiarity in the Marche: here they coexist two oil extraction techniques. In fact, there are those who work with fiscoli (special baskets where the olive paste obtained from the grinding is collected and then stacked and pressed), arguing that in this way there is more roundness of the oil and those who rely on oil mills that look like spaceships, where the extraction takes place by mechanical and centrifugal kneading to avoid oxidative processes and have more fragrant oil.

Oil, the sap of a wise land

A journey into the extra virgin olive oil of these lands is for those who love cooking a master of the senses: it is here that you learn that the spicy of a Rosciola, the sweet of an Ascolana, the fruity of an Orbetana enrich the dish, complete it. , they inform him of themselves. The oil of the Marche it is never a condiment, it is always an ingredient. With the smiles of girls who have returned to the earth because they are fascinated by oil, the expertise of three sisters of the Gabrielloni Frantoio who perpetuate an ancient family tradition, the experience of those who graze – between the end of September and mid-November – the drupes still by hand or with "combs" that respect the plants, it turns out that the extra virgin is there lymph of health: for the antioxidant polyphenols, for the vitamins, for the good fats it contains. And it is the fruit of a wise land: the Marche.

November 2021, curated by Monica Pilotto, text by Carlo Cambi, photos by Francesca Moscheni

Posted on 11/26/2021


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5 recipes and lots of curiosity about lupins – Italian Cuisine

5 recipes and lots of curiosity about lupins

Perhaps not everyone knows that lupins are not just simply one snacks to munch on in front of the TV, but also a ingredient very versatile in the kitchen.

What are lupins?

Lupins are a variety of legumes very widespread in Mediterranean, but little known on our tables.
It is difficult to find them fresh and generally they are found already cooked and preserved in brine ready to eat, or dry like all other legumes, to be soaked in water before cooking.

How to cook dry lupins

Like all the legumes, the lupins must be kept in bath cold salted water, but for a very long time, at least 7 days, until they soften.
This procedure is to eliminate them bitter aftertaste and above all a toxic substance called lupotossina.
During the soaking period it is important to remember change the water once a day.
Once soft they go cooked in boiling water.

How to prepare lupins in brine

The same lupins you find in the supermarket immersed in brine can also be prepared at home, certainly with a little patience. After having followed the long process of soaking and cooking dried vegetables, then after about 7 days, cook one kg of lupins in two liters of boiling water with 120 g of salt for 5 minutes. Still hot, pour them into jars and cover them with the brine and keep them for a few months.

Recipes with lupins

As we said, with lupins you can prepare many delicious and rich dishes, using dry ones, pickled ones and even flour. Lupins are particularly indicated in vegan diets because they are excellent meat substitutes.
Here 5 recipes really very simple that you should try.

Lupine Burger

Peel 500 g of pickled lupins and blend them with 250 g of boiled potatoes, half an onion, aromatic herbs and a tablespoon of chia seeds.
Then add a pinch of salt and gradually the cornmeal as needed to work the mixture.
Form burgers with the help of a pastry cutter and then bake them with more corn flour.
Bake them in the oven or on a non-stick pan with a little oil.

Legume soup with lupins

After cooking the dried vegetables as explained above, you can drain them and use them to enrich soups and vegetable soups. If they are still a little bitter, cook them in boiling water once more before mixing them with other ingredients.

Hummus of lupins

A delicious alternative to the classic chickpea hummus.
You have two options: you can prepare the sauce only with lupins, or with chickpeas and lupins.
In any case, it is sufficient to blend the legumes in brine (without the peel) adding also a spoon of tahina, a pinch of salt and some lemon juice.

Lupine mayonnaise

To prepare this delicious cream, which looks like mayonnaise, but is much lighter, just blend 120 g of peeled and washed lupins in brine. Still whipping, add 70 g of soy milk, 70 g of seed oil, a tablespoon of mustard and one of apple vinegar. Serve like a classic mayonnaise.

Lupine plumcake

A nice dessert could not be missing from this list of recipes and this is a perfect plumcake for breakfast and as a snack for the whole family.
We will use the lupine flour found in organic food stores and in many supermarkets.
First, whisk 3 egg yolks with 100 g of brown sugar and whisk the egg whites separately.
Add to the yolks 250 g of ricotta and 80 ml of seed oil until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
Finally sift together 100 g of 00 flour, 50 of lupine flour and 50 of spelled flour and a sachet of yeast.
Slowly add the egg whites alternating with the flour mix, stirring gently.
Pour everything into a plum cake mold covered with parchment paper and bake in a static oven at 180 ° for about 35 minutes.

If you are curious to learn more about lupins, browse the tutorial!

discovering food with curiosity – Italian Cuisine


With this method the babies are free to taste what most attracts them and parents let them do, but always with a good dose of common sense!

«An appropriate complementary diet and a transition to a balanced and nutritious family diet are important for the growth, development and health of the child up to three years: this is how Unicef ​​defines theautosvezzamento, a more free approach than the traditional onefood introduction in babies, after the six months of the newborn's life, without tables or excessive indications from the doctor. Recommended byWorld Health Organization, especially following 6 months of exclusive breastfeeding breastfeeding, autosvezzamento requires that the breast milk remains an important food for the baby for a long time. It is therefore a very personal choice on the part of the mum and in general of the family, and recommended especially to those who, already by habit, have a positive and varied approach to food. But let's find out something more.

Traditional weaning

In the scheme of weaning traditional, it usually starts around the fourth or fifth month, with thetasting of fruit, homogenized or grated, and one food at a time is introduced calmly, for fear that they develop allergies. Pediatricians usually provide parents with a precise pattern of quantities, ingredients and timing and proceed slowly.

Autosvezzamento is a natural passage

Autosvezzamento is seen as a natural transition to nutrition: there is not a precise moment in which to begin, it does not require fatigue and impositions on the part of the parents towards the baby, but only an accompaniment to the knowledge of food. It starts in fact basically after 6 months, but especially when the baby can sit alone, to coordinate the movement between hand and mouth – and then to use the food – and begins to show interest in what parents eat, which will always involve him during their meals.

The self-weaning child uses himself

It may seem difficult because it has no rules, but in self-weaning the child is left behind choice of foods that more intrigues him and so begins to manipulate them and to have experience in a natural way. The main concern of the parents is that the baby does not eat enough: in these cases, however, the mother will provide for the need by giving the breast on request. Warning! Obviously theoffer of ingredients it must be done with common senseIn fact, the whole family will adapt to self-weaning, giving a lot of space on the table fruits and vegetables, eliminating excessive seasonings and the salt, limiting i too fatty dishes. After all there is nothing new in self-delving, but it is almost a return to the origins: the children in the large families of farmers were not offered a dish different from that of other members, but they ate with the whole family what wax.


Autosvezzamento: how should parents behave?

Parents will have to meet the needs of the child, offering food within his reach, both in quality and in the size of the morsels, leaving that taste with your hands or helping him with the spoon if he shows he wants it. So discovering the food will become a 'all-round experience for the whole family and a rediscovery for adults too. Of course, before choosing or not a diet is important deal with your pediatrician or with the reference clinic: self-weaning is in fact mainly recommended for babies with parents who are not allergic and breast-fed.

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