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Porchetta di Ariccia: among the 5 unmissable dishes in the world according to the New York Times – Italian Cuisine

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It has very ancient origins and is a typical product of Central Italy. It is made with the meat of female pigs that is massaged with salt, pepper, rosemary and garlic and then stitched. It can be enjoyed alone or accompanied with bread, bread sticks, pizzas




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Many contend for the authorship of porchetta, one of the most popular street foods, which the New York Times has even included among the five typical dishes not to be missed in the world. Beyond the controversies, the village of Ariccia sui Castelli Romani can boast a millenary tradition, apparently dating back to Latins, for the production of this roast of pig spread throughout the center of Italy (Tuscany, Lazio, Umbria and Marche above all, but also Romagna and Abruzzo).

To be enjoyed in fraschette
And it is in the Ariccino territory preparing the Porchetta Igp, to be enjoyed all year round in the typical "fraschette"(ancient taverns) of the Castles, and in September in the historic Sagra, with costumed procession and throwing of stuffed sandwiches from a wagon in front of the Town Hall. To Ariccia many historical porchettari follow the ancient art of craftsmanship. THE pigs, only of female sex because they are leaner and tastier, they are boned and cleaned; then, again by hand, salted, massaged and spiced with a mixture of black pepper, rosemary and garlic. We then move on to tying and sewing around a steel pole and cooking in the oven, until the rind becomes crisp: the wood-fired ovens of the past have been supplanted by those in steel, electric or gas. Finally the cooling down, because the roast loses its moisture and keeps better. There pork, whole or in the smallest logs (7-13 kg), it must have a nice crunchy brown crust, softer in the girth.

The rind? Yes please
The meat, between white and pink, is fragrant and tender, with a taste savory and spicy, with a delightful texture contrast to the well roasted rind. Cut with a knife, the porchetta is tasted in all its fragrance al natural, cold or hot, together with homemade bread from Genzano, with a soft and light crumb, or from Lariano, of semi-integral soft wheat and cooked in a wood oven. Or in a sandwich enriched to taste with salad, grilled peppers or aubergines, cheese (provola, pecorino). It can also be used as an ingredient in cooking, to flavor pasta, pizza and savory pies. OR eat hot as a main course.

January 2022
Marina Cella

Posted on 21/01/2022

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Chef Giuseppe Bruno, Italian heritage in New York – Italian Cuisine


Giuseppe Bruno invented a whole world for himself. Indeed, two have been invented: Sistina and Caravaggio. Both located on the Upper East Side, many illustrious guests

A heritage.
A heritage of taste, art, humanity.
Italian cuisine that mixes with New York, with million-dollar Matisse, with a cellar of 200 thousand bottles of wine that, who knows, maybe they are worth even more.

Giuseppe Bruno he invented a whole world.
Indeed, he invented two: Sistine And Caravaggio.
Originally from Battipaglia, province of Salerno. Emigrated in the early 1980s, to the American office together with his brothers. Ambassador of the good, but also of the beautiful.

Two restaurants that almost deserve the quotes: they are, in fact, two museums in all respects. Both located inUpper East Side, a handful of steps from each other and moreover just a handful of steps from another museum, perhaps the most famous in the world, that Metropolitan with which they somehow merge, in a fascinating, interesting whole and exquisite.

Entering means entering another dimension.
If you are looking for the atmosphere of the myth of Manhattan, it is here.
If you are looking for authentic Italian cuisine, it is always here.

Prices are certainly not a caress, but you are in the chicest neighborhood of the Big Apple and, above all, you are seated where they usually sit. Michelle and Barack Obama, Hillary and Bill Clinton, Melania and Donald Trump, also passing through Hollywood and its surroundings Martin Scorsese, Robert De Niro, George Clooney, up to the monsters of high finance such as Larry Fink (CEO of the BlackRock fund), John Mack (former CEO of Morgan Stanley) e Fabrizio Freda (CEO of Estée Lauder). In one word, then? The summit.

It's the same Henri Matisse, in fact, it is … just one of many. Donald Baechler he decorated an entire wall by Caravaggio with his own hand. Frank Stella he traced his precious geometries. Ellsworth Kelly showed off its minimalism. And finally Sandro Chia, very Italian, has impressed his neo expressionism.

In short, defining Giuseppe Bruno as the Executive Chef of Sistina and Caravaggio is obviously an understatement. Bruno is a genius who in forty years has never stopped working, collecting and dreaming. In a big way, for himself and even more so for his guests.

Landmark. For the many young people who observe it. For all of us who are looking for Italy in America.

Side note, complete with a recipe.
As I write, I eat steamed seafood salad garnished with sun-dried tomato, lemon and fennel vinaigrette sauce.
Triumph of lobsters, shrimps, baby squids, scallops, mussels and clams.
Of course, with a touch of raw extra virgin olive oil, "I don't mention names because I don't like advertising, but that oil costs me more than an excellent bottle of wine!" Shouts Giuseppe amused from somewhere.
Delicious, light and healthy.

Cin. And life served.

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Photo by Luigi Gallo Artist

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Fusilli, turnips and taleggio (New York style): the recipe – Italian Cuisine

Fusilli, turnips and taleggio (New York style): the recipe


From Rome he flew to New York to cook Italian to Americans. Francesco Panella at Antica Pesa in Brooklyn cooks recipes just like this (to try at home)

The Antica Pesa in Rome is one of the historic restaurants in the capital, since 1922 in the heart of Trastevere, so called in the name of the customs of the Papal States which in the seventeenth century was right in via Garibaldi. Here there was a place of refreshment that provided bread and wine to those who passed through the duty, which had become Antica Pesa in the late nineteenth century when it became a real tavern.

In 1922 the Panella family took over the restaurant, transformed it into a neighborhood tavern, and in the post-war period into an established restaurant throughout the city. The Panellas are now in their fourth generation, that of Simone, in the kitchen, and Francesco, who brought Antica Pesa to New York. In fact, in 2012 they opened in Brooklyn before and in 2019 Feroce, a concept restaurant open from morning to night inside the Moxy NYC Chelsea hotel.

In Rome and New York, the menu follows the great Roman tradition: tripe alla romana, spaghetti cacio e pepe, saltimbocca and the whole repertoire, with some classic dishes and someone revisited in a contemporary key in the presentations and in some combinations. We proudly eat Italian and an Italian cuisine today, as with this recipe from Fusilli, turnips and taleggio. The inspiration for this recipe comes from the ingredients that are very common in Northern Italy in the winter season, such as beets. Once cooked, the beets develop a sweeter flavor and this flavor mixed with the earthy aftertaste is lightened by the intense flavor of the combination with Taleggio. This is how they do it in America, but we will like it too, guaranteed.

Fusilli, turnips and taleggi: the recipe

Ingredients for 4 people

4 beets
vegetable broth
salt and pepper
extra virgin olive oil
200 g of taleggio
500 ml of cream
400 g of fusilli

Method

For the sauce, boil the beets with the skin. Once cooked, peel the beetroot and mix with a little vegetable broth, salt, pepper and olive oil. Blend everything.
For the Taleggio fondue, boil the cream and add the Taleggio cheese cut into very small pieces. Stir until the cream becomes smooth and homogeneous.
Boil the fusilli for 8 minutes and drain them al dente, mix them with the beetroot sauce and add the cheese fondue.

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