Tag: wrong

Because the right napkin is not wrong – Italian Cuisine

History and bon ton of the napkin, from the slice of bread… to the most modern mise en place

Until the late medieval era, the napkin did not exist and we cleaned our mouths with a tablecloth (when there was). As a substitute, a slice of bread was called "bread from the mouth" which was used to wipe one's lips and then eat it.
Leonardo da Vinci he was the first to be interested in the design of "mini tablecloths", tired of the dirt that prevailed during Renaissance banquets. So it was that he designed the first napkin, to be placed on the guest's plate, but it did not have the desired success … the guests, not accustomed to that object, used it in the most disparate ways.

Only later did small pieces of cloth appear: first placed on the right shoulder, to wipe his mouth with his left hand, then placed in the hollow of the right elbow and only later did they begin to be placed on the table.

Where do you put the napkin at the table today?

We often ask ourselves this as an existential doubt while the table is being prepared for the guests who are about to arrive.
However, the answer to this question is not unique, it all depends on the type of mise en place that you want to present.

First of all, we must always keep in mind that etiquette is not a series of imposed rules, but rather the result of purely logical reasoning that led the company to establish the most advanced way to use the tools available, to share the table in the civilized way possible.

Elisa Motterle, etiquette and bon ton consultant, always confirms this thought during his online courses: «There is absolutely no right or wrong in bon ton. Functionality and common sense are the only true rules of etiquette .
He also suggests: «Better to concentrate on what absolutely must be avoided: how to place the napkin under the plate or under the cutlery, as it is totally illogical. Unfolding the napkin is the first thing we have to do once we have ordered at the restaurant, and it would be better to do it without moving the whole mise en place! .

There are some cases in which it is allowed to place the napkin on the plate: «For example, Elisa explains, «in banqueting, during weddings or events, where seating spaces must be maximized .

It is also necessary to evaluate a fundamental thing of a hygienic order: past (fortunately) the fashion of napkins folded in a very creative way and placed on the plate, now it is preferable to fold them in the simplest way (in the shape of a rectangle). In this way the napkin is touched as little as possible by other hands.

"The theme was already present in the Renaissance", always says the etiquette expert Elisa Motterle, "when the napkins with artistic shapes, which were real sculptures of folded fabrics, remained on the table as decoration, and then the waiters passed to leave small pieces of cloth to the seated diners to wipe their mouths .
After these premises we come to the differences between the mise en place most used today.

English mise en place: napkin on the left

The most used mise en place is the one called "English", recognizable for placing the cutlery with the prongs facing upwards, the glasses in order grouped at the top right, the knife and spoon to the right of the plate and the fork to the left.
The napkin in this case would then go to left for a balance of the space of the mise en place, which otherwise would be disproportionate to the right, but above all for a reason of a logical-functional nature: by grabbing a flap of the napkin with the right hand, with a single simple gesture it can be easily unfolded and rest on your legs.

La mise en place in the French style: the napkin on the right

At the French court it was customary to place the cutlery with the prongs downwards towards the table, for several reasons: to prevent the prongs from getting trapped in the lace of the sleeves and to emphasize one's wealth.
By placing the prongs down, in fact, one did not care about the risk of ruining the tablecloths, thus emphasizing one's social status. Subsequently, the engraving of the noble coat of arms also began to be placed behind the cutlery to adapt to this type of equipment.
The French mise en place is therefore easily recognizable, even if little used today, by the positioning of the cutlery downwards and the glasses arranged in a row above the plate. In this way there is no longer the need to optimize the space and the napkin can be put on right. This type of French table setting was also widely used in Italy in the Savoy era, while today it is mostly found in France during formal events.
There is therefore no standard rule for the position of the napkin, you can put it wherever you want, as long as common sense and functionality are taken into consideration, which are the only true rules of bon ton!

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Fillet is a precious meat: let's not ruin it with the wrong cooking! – Italian Cuisine

A unique and precious cut of meat, not to be spoiled with the wrong cooking! From cutting to cooking, here's how to cook fillet

Fillet: this word defines the absolutely most tender and prized cut of beef, so unique that, unlike what happens for all the other parts, it is called the same way in all regions of Italy. The fillet occupies the vault of the lumbosacral region of the animal. It runs parallel to the rib, under the lumbar vertebrae and near the kidneys. It has more or less the shape of a thin cone, whose base is in direct contact with the rump. It is a set of muscles subjected to very little effort and this explains why they give such a tender flesh. Unfortunately it has very small dimensions: it represents, in fact, just 2.5 percent of all the meat that can be obtained from a bovine and can weigh, at most, around four kilos. Once the fat that covers it and the waste parts has been cleaned, the useful portion reaches, more or less, the weight of three kilos. This explains the high cost of this delicious meat.

The cutting of the meat

The fillet, therefore, is a single piece but, given its elongated shape which is shrinking, it is usually divided into three parts: the head, that is the largest part, the heart, or the middle part, and the tail, the thinnest, which is located under the ribs. Of the three, the head is the least fine, being somewhat intersected by tendons and connective tissue; it can be used for steaks, or cleaned and finely chopped with a knife: it is used to prepare steak tartare or also, sliced, for a carpaccio. From the central part, the heart, of regular shape, you can get the Chateaubriand, large slices weighing about 400 grams each, which are cooked briefly, like steaks, for 2 people. From the tail, which becomes gradually thinner, it is possible to cut (as indeed from the heart) round-shaped slices, the tournedos, or even more tiny fillets called filets mignon (it takes two or three for a portion). Also from the third part you can cut slices for carpaccio and pieces to be minced by hand, with the knife, for tartare of raw meat.

The preparation

One of the reasons that make fillet a meat so requested and appreciated is that the preparations that use it require a few minutes of cooking and very few elaborations and additions of herbs and flavors. Its cooking base, in fact, is almost always sufficient to complete the processing. The tenderloin is so tender and tasty that it can be eaten even raw or simply seared. The longer you cook it, the less tender and juicy it becomes

The pan

The important thing, however, is to remember that the first impact with the pan is crucial for the final result. The pan, in fact, preferably made of iron, must be very hot as well as the fat (butter or oil). At the time of browning, in fact, the crust is formed which prevents the moods from dispersing (the red meat contains little humidity), holding them inside to give the preparation juiciness and flavor. However, there is always a certain loss of humidity, so much so that the thickness of a well-cooked steak is less than that of the same still raw.

Cooking

A fillet steak weighing 150/200 g requires a cooking time ranging from 2 to 5 or 6 minutes per side (the French say 1 to 4 minutes), depending on whether you want it cooked or cooked. Of course, times increase if the piece is larger.

How to understand if the fillet is cooked to the right point?

There are various ways to find out where the meat has come to cooking: one of these, empirical, but still effective, is to prick it with a skewer: if it is still in the blood, a drop will come out, but as the cooking proceeds, the color of the liquid that comes out becomes more and more clear. It should be noted that this test must be done in moderation, so that the pricks do not let the meat juices come out

The temperature

Very bad (blue, rare): to cook a fillet steak (3 cm thick) you need 2 'per side. By pricking it with a skewer, dark red blood comes out. Temperature measured in the center, 45 ° C.
To the blood (saignant, medium-rare): to cook the same slice of fillet at this point, you need 3 ′ 30 ”per side; tip with a skewer, it emits bright red blood. Center temperature, 50 ° C.
Medium or half (au point, medium): this degree of cooking requires 4 ′ 30 ”per side. Pricking the center of the fillet with a skewer, a pink juice comes out. Center temperature, about 60 ° C.
Well done (bien cuit, well done): to reach this degree of cooking it takes 5 ′ 30 ”per side. By pricking the center of the slice, the juice that comes out is clear pink. The temperature in the center is around 70 ° C.

"Parare" and "harness" the fillet

Parrying, in culinary jargon, means cleaning the meat of skins, ligaments and fatty parts. The cord that runs along the piece must be removed from the fillet, cutting the skin that holds it together and then pulling it towards yourself with a sharp and sharp knife. Then also cut the remaining skin.
The tournedos, whose weight is around 150 g, are 2 to 3 cm high: because they cook on a regular basis, it is advisable to tie them with one or two rounds of white kitchen twine so that they do not widen or deform during cooking . Bardarlo (wrap them) with a few slices of lard or bacon is also used to hold the juices of the meat during cooking, which will thus remain even softer and tastier. The permanence of the meat on the grill or in a pan must be very short.

Boiled egg and 5 other simple dishes that are always wrong – Italian Cuisine

It's a classic: the simpler a thing is, the easier it is to underestimate it. There are dishes that seem devoid of any possible catch. An example? See them in the oven: whisk in the pan, turn on the gas and ready! But no, there are 7 errors lurking … And what about tomato sauce? Six key passages must be respected … Easy, yes, but not discounted.

Here are six more dishes very good, fast and very accessible that can be a real specialty like a complete failure. And indeed, normally they are the litmus paper to understand if one (or one) in the kitchen really guesses.

The first rule is that of quality of the ingredients that, precisely because they are few and precisely because the workforce is limited, they become the real protagonists.

Garlic, oil and hot pepper
They are the dish of the improvised dinners par excellence and in this must of midnight spaghetti with friends there are basically two possible pitfalls: burning garlic and not getting the right humidity. Garlic should be put 'in shirt', ie the clove with the skin crushed at the bottom of the pan. Chili pepper, if dry, it is better to add it later. Humidity means that the spaghetti does not result too drowned in oil nor too dry. There hotness instead it is subjective and there is no rule. Finally, even if it seems superfluous to specify it, the spaghetti must be al dente, rigorously, even more than in other sauces or situations. Extra: you can enrich the spaghetti with col toasted breadcrumbs, which will give them an exquisite crunchy texture. In any case, it is highly recommendable scuffing spaghetti in the pan where the garlic has been passed with oil and chilli, so that they are well seasoned.

The boiled egg
It has the reputation of being the simplest recipe in the world: it is that of the boiled egg. And yet how many times you have happened to ruin it: olive yolk, crushing of the aforementioned, impossibility of peeling the egg or even too raw egg. In the meantime, freshness is essential and to verify it, simply immerse the egg in a basin filled with cold water: if it goes to the bottom lying down horizontally it is cool, if it is positioned vertically and part of the tip floats it means that it has so muchinner tubeand therefore it is less fresh. Finally, if it floats on the surface of the water it is certainly dated and it is better to avoid it. At this point, after filling the pan with plenty of water, a trick is to add a tablespoon of vinegar, which serves to ensure that the shell does not break with simmering. If you like, you can also add a pinch of salt. The egg must be immersed in cold water (there are also those who immerse it directly in boiling water, but this is not what we recommend), making sure it is completely covered by water. Remove it after 8-10 minutes from the moment of boiling (if it cooks 3 minutes it is the cocque, if it cooks 6 minutes it is barzotto). Attention: do not exceed the scheduled time! If cooking or immersion in boiling water proceeds indefinitely, the yolk turns green and is more difficult to peel. By the way: how to skin it without going crazy or ruining and taking away the outer part of the album? Tap the shell and then leave it to soak in the cold beautiful water, so that the water penetrates and the film is then easy to detach. And anyway remember: the fresher the egg, the harder it is to peel!

Fried egg
It all starts by doing melt a knob of butter (which is not all the same!) in a small non-stick pan, preferably in stone. When the butter becomes liquid, immediately break the egg, trying to move the yolk to the center as much as possible with the help of a spatula. The correct cooking must observe this protocol: it must be crunchy underneath, but not burnt, while the yolk must remain soft so as not to lose its taste and nutritional properties. To guarantee the result, you can do this: keep the red aside and add it to the pan only after the white is almost completely fried. Better a sprinkling of salt only on red and as soon as you remove from the pan even a handful of Parmesan can stand it. If instead times in red a little more compact and white super-well cooked, you can turn and quickly turn the fried egg with a spatula in the pan.

The cutlet
Small, large, available in a thousand variations: the cutlet is a must in the imagination of many adults and almost all children. The birthright belongs to the Milanese cuisine, even if the Austrians consider it a variant of their Wiener Schnitzel. The preparation provides for cream the eggs in a large bowl with a little salt added. Optional add grated cheese and a pinch of pepper. Beat the slices lightly and immediately pass them in the cream of eggs and then in the breadcrumbs that must be very fine (there are also those, first and foremost, le infarina). At this point, two options: oil (a lot) or butter (unparalleled). The pan must be wide and very hot, the cutlets must be added a few at a time. If you have used chicken meat, the secret is to remove the just golden breasts, to prevent them from hardening, it being understood that they must be well cooked.

Pasta with fresh tomatoes
This is also a recipe that is considered easy, fast and affordable for everyone. Yes, but bear in mind that tomatoes are right blanched for 30 seconds in lightly salted water and then drain them with a slotted spoon, peel them, cut them in half, remove the seeds and cut the pulp into cubes. Excellent a touch of oregano (even dry) or basil leaves (strictly fresh) and garlic should not be dried in the pan for more than 4-5 minutes, otherwise there is the risk of it burning. The linguine, this is the ideal pasta, should be strictly drained al dente and pour into the pan where there are garlic and tomatoes for at least a minute. Note: this sauce, especially if the tomatoes are organic or really genuine, is delicious even when we prepare it completely raw, with the whole chopped tomatoes quickly along with the other ingredients.

Beef steak
This is the last classic of good and easy dishes but it can be full of pitfalls and it is not so unusual to fall right on a steak. First of all it is fundamental to choose the right cut, the origin and ideal maturation, on which tenderness and taste obviously depend. Color red meat is important: it must be intense and the presence of clear and compact fat is a sign of quality. The smell is another important clue and the first mistake to avoid is to salt the meat when it is still raw, because the salt risks to make our steak dry, hard and stringy. Furthermore, it is fundamental that it be a room temperature before cooking, because if it is cold in the fridge – especially if it is thick – it will remain hot on the outside and cold inside. As a pot, the grill, the griddle or the grill are fine, the important thing is that they are hot and possibly of iron or cast iron. There cooking does not occur half on one side and half on the other. The steak is cooked well on one side and when the edges are already well roasted it turns: the residence time on the B side will be less. Finally, it is good not to eat the freshly cooked steak, but wait just as long as the juices can be redistributed between the fibers.

Emanuela Di Pasqua,
April 2017
updated by Carola Traverso Saibante
October 2019

photo credits: Wikipedia

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