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Ćetenija, the Bosnian cake that women prepare in groups – Italian Cuisine


Ćetenija is a Bosnian dessert with a special charm because the preparation is like a folkloristic ritual in which the protagonists are the women of the villages

One of the oldest Bosnian sweets is ćetenija, so simple for the ingredients that it requires as complex for the preparation, it contains in itself the popular folklore and a typical ritual of cold winter evenings. It is in this period, in fact, that the families, and the women in particular, they sit in a circle around a table and, modeling by hand with extraordinary teamwork, what is a mixture based on sugar, flour and waterthey spend their time pleasantly together, often listening to traditional music.

Recipe and preparation of the sweet cake

To cook ćetenija we start with the toasting the flour, which should be baked in the oven at a low temperature for about two hours, until it is golden. In the meantime we proceed to the preparation of the dough based on sugar, water and a little lemon. The ingredients are heated together until the mixture is caramelized, elastic and dark brown. At this point it is removed from the stove and, with oiled hands, comes shaped until it has the shape of a ring. It is at this point that, traditionally, the social component of the preparation of the dessert takes over. The caramelized circle is in fact placed on a wooden surface on which the flour has been previously distributed and the women who sit in a circle, usually five or six, begin to pull and shape, one at a time, the dough until it is thin. The work of ćetenija requires little effort and time on the part of women, but the participatory aspect makes it all enjoyable and enjoyable. The dessert is considered ready when these sweet filaments similar to cotton they are completed and laid one on top of the other, and then left to cool, outside or near a window. Needless to say that in the final stages the sugar threads are cut into small pieces and served to all those present, in small portions, for the umpteenth moment of conviviality and sharing.

The ćetenija ritual, yesterday and today

The process of preparation of ćetenija, as we have seen, has one strong social component. During the various steps, the guests sip Bosnian coffee and sing national traditional songs. Everything takes place in a cheerful atmosphere, between talk and laughter. In short, this dessert brings people together and helps to perpetuate a strong sense of identity in families. Once upon a time the ritual also represented a precious opportunity for the young people of the village to know each other and converse or to attract the beloved person to himself.
Nowadays ćetenija is prepared as much in homes as it is outdoors, in the street, often within neighborhood initiatives with lots of public performances.
Although ćetenija is still a beloved dessert in Bosnia, in the rest of the world it is almost unknown. This is because, despite its undeniable charm, the Bosnian authorities do not do much to promote the country's cultural heritage.

Photo: cetenija zenicablog
Photo: Bosnian sweet cetenjia; Medžlis islamske zajednice Srebrenik

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Lorighittas, the handmade Sardinian pasta made by women – Italian Cuisine

Lorighittas, the handmade Sardinian pasta made by women


Le lorighittas, a particular type of fresh Sardinian pasta from the province of Oristano, has been prepared and intertwined by the local women for over 100 years

On the slopes of Mount Arci, in the Sardinia western, rises the country of Morgongiori in the province of Oristano, about 800 inhabitants, known at the regional level for its carpets and handmade tapestries. This village, in reality, also holds a secret that is handed down from generation to generation, or the recipe and the technique of preparation of the lorighittas, a special format pasta, hand-woven, which can be considered a real gem of Sardinian gastronomic tradition.

The lorighittas, between tradition and folk tales

The first written testimony concerning the lorighittas dates back to XVI century, in a report on regional economic activities drawn up for the king of Spain, which at the time had control over most of southern Italy, including Sardinia, Naples and Sicily. In this document was in fact mentioned a particular Sardinian paste, twisted and shaped like a ring. The tradition of lorighittas was long linked to the celebration of the All Saints Day, 1 November. It was indeed customary that the women of the village gathered in the kitchens, in the previous days, and spend time together, kneading semolina flour and water and intertwining the dough on wooden tables. The lorighittas were then placed on wicker baskets, with an ornamental order that reminded the lace doilies, and left to dry. It was during this time of waiting that we proceeded with the preparation of the sauce, or a tomato sauce enriched with free-range cockerel meat, sometimes replaced with pork or wild boar in the wealthiest families.

So, like today, the preparation is done exclusively by hand and requires dexterity, meticulousness and a lot of time. Just think that only for the preparation of the dough, a process that includes the gradual addition of salt water to make the lorighittas softer, it takes at least 30 minutes.
Furthermore, the fact that from tradition the young women have always been involved in this local artisan pasta of the country, which then handed down the recipe to subsequent generations, it is probably due to the Sardinian pastoral culture according to which it was the duty of the women to take care of the food preparations while the men were busy in the fields.
Sull 'origin of the name, lorigas, there are many popular theories and stories. It is said, for example, that the pasta was so called because it recalls the growths of the neck of goats or pigs, or the literary translation "iron rings" because the shape is similar to that of the intertwined hoop earrings worn by women or of the iron rings that once were attached to the walls of the local houses to tie horses and oxen when the men returned from the fields.

The lorighittas today

While in the houses of Morgongiori women carry on the tradition, production is carried on, always with artisan and manual procedure, even from some laboratories. Moreover, since 2006, the municipal council, thanks to a program financed by the EU, has launched a project, Asso Lori, which deals with the enhancement, revitalization and protection of this unique pasta in the world, thus supporting local producers. Although pasta is still little known outside of Sardinia, consumer demand increases more and more.
Today lorighittas are a strong dish of many Sardinian restaurants and there are many chefs who propose original recipes with products of land and sea.
In addition, the city of Morgongiori continues to dedicate the first Sunday of August to the lorighittas in a city festival called Sagra delle lorighittas, so as to show off its precious culinary heritage.

Photo: Lorighittas pasta sardegna_fugzu_Flikr.jpg; Lorighittas @Instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/Br-A0XxF5Je.

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