Tag: #travelingwithlci

Versilia: a star shines again in Forte dei Marmi – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay

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Summer in Versilia is always a certainty and theByron Hotelrecently renovated, a stone’s throw from the beaches of Marble Fort And Stonesantacelebrates this year the reconfirmation of the recognition of the Michelin red guide after a brief hiatus. With excellent experiences at George of the Four Seasons George V of Paris and to Dorchester of London, in Alain Ducasse’s brigade, the Chef Marco Bernardooriginally from Benevento, has managed to conquer with his contemporary, sophisticated cuisine, but also rich in references to the Campania and Tuscan traditions. So, together with seafood appetizers, make way for Neapolitan taralli and Versilian focaccias to dip in oil.

Ziti alla genovese with cod.

The flavour of the sea finds full exaltation thanks to the fish agingan ancient technique rediscovered a few years ago and perfect for larger fish which after a few days of dry-aging in the cold room they acquire a more marked and complex aroma, which the chef combines for example with escarole kimchi, oxidized lemon and pimenton. In addition to fish, declined according to the seasonality of the raw materials, as in the case of the scampi with asparagus zabaglione and burnt lemon, there is no lack of forays into the hinterland, such as the Chianina carpaccio with wild garlic or the Massa lamb.

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Ammaccata: the ancient Cilentana pizza by Cristian Santomauro – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay

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As passionate about leavened products as he is about the stories of the elderly, he still tells me today that he loves to stop at the bar with someone older to chat and above all to hear about the lives, moments and anecdotes of the town. In this spirit of sharing and brotherhood with the locals, he began to make his first bruises to support, during the street festivals, the fundraisers intended for the creation of new murals that would embellish the city. White art goes hand in hand with pictorial art. Grandma Teresa continues to be his greatest supporter, but also his harshest judge; she tells him that it is good, but it is not like the one “of the past”.

What did Grandma Teresa mean? What was the old ammaccata like? Why wasn’t the one she was making so good? This was the real starting point for the young pizza chef. Questions he absolutely had to find an answer to. His research focused heavily on the stories of many local women, women with big hands and sharp brains. Aunts, neighbors, and commoners from other neighboring towns helped him put together the pieces of a puzzle that then gave life to the true traditional recipe. Obviously, since it’s a dish that’s very tied to tradition, each person asked gave their own version, but what they all had in common was the fact that to make the ammaccata, durum wheat and soft wheat flours were first mixed together in a bowl, with very little salt; and I have to say, it’s one of the least flavorful doughs I’ve ever tasted. To this mixture was then added the mother yeast and everything was left to rise for a whole day so that a mass was formed from which the “padellucce” were obtained which were later used to make bread or, indeed, the ammaccate. It was a choral work, done by several women, who in the meantime had the opportunity to exchange advice and curiosities.

Ancient grains.

Cristian’s place could only be called: Ammaccata

Cristian was interested in reliving that ritual and spreading that ancient knowledge as much as possible, putting back in its place that sense of belonging that had been lost along the way. That’s why he has never stopped promoting ancient, traditional grains, especially from Cilento, for fifteen years now. It’s worth remembering that Velia, in Cilento, was the first Greek colony and that the entire area has culinary traditions and, not only that, very ancient ones that they can be proud of. Like a young man who dreams of making music and of treading the most important stages, but starts strumming on the side of a road, so Cristian, starting from micro events, street parties and very small festivals, often putting his own money into it, begins to let people taste the ancient Cilentana pizza, promoting its goodness and making those who had perhaps forgotten it discover an ancient recipe.

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