Tag: taste

South Tyrol to taste! – Salt and pepper – Italian Cuisine


Quality mark

South Tyrol? A wunderkammer natural unrollingto among the tumultuous courses of the Adige and the Isarco, between the Dolomites and the Natural Parks where nature has unleashed all its imagination to create an inimitable terroir. It is here that unique natural products are born, such as speck, apples, cheeses, marked "Alto Adige" and awarded from the European Union of the IGP mark (Protected Geographical Indication). Ready to become protagonists of robust snacks, tasty snacks, refined preparations.

176479A real specktacle!

That the speck has a glorious past is beyond doubt: along the Adige and Isarco's "he" valley, in fact, it has been spoken since 1200, when the Corporation of Butchers gave precise instructions on its preparation. Which included precise and unchanging operations of salting and smoking so that the speck is still produced according to the traditional rule "little salt, little smoke and lots of air". And so, if you really want to label it in a definition, Speck is a slightly smoked and seasoned raw ham. The choice of the raw material is obviously the basis of the quality of Speck Alto Adige PGI because only carefully selected pork thighs are used to produce it. The actual processing involves eight very precise steps: from boning to smoking (which is done by preparing a fire of wood that is not very resinous, so as not to give Speck a too strong flavor), to exposure to the brisk air of the South Tyrolean valleys to maturing that lasts on average 6/7 months. And the Bauernspeck? Is it peasant speck, as the literal translation wants, obtained from selected pigs and reared in small herds left in the semi-wild state in the masi of the innermost valleys. In addition to the thigh, in this case, other cuts (coppa, shoulder, carré, pancetta) are also used in order to exploit all the parts of the animal, as tradition dictates.


The bumps, the hills, the fields are an endless expanse of trees full of trees golden bright yellow, granny smith intense green and very red red delicious. We are just over 46 ° north latitude, on what can be called the "parallel of apples" and that of South Tyrol is the largest orchard in Europe, which extends over a hundred kilometers long the Adige, from the Val Venosta to the Bassa Atesina with an area of ​​about 18,500 hectares. 300 days of sunshine a year, abundant spring rains, a usually mild summer and autumn give the area the ideal conditions for growing apples up to 1,000 meters above sea level. The unique climate, combined with controlled agricultural practices, natural and ecological make grow thirteen varieties marked IGP mature: from the famous Fuji, Gala, Golden Delicious and Granny Smith to the most niche apples like the Braeburn, the Winesap and the Idared. Every year, according to data, about 1 million tons of apples are harvested, equal to 10% of the entire harvest in the European Union. And as far as organic food is concerned, South Tyrol is also one of the Union's largest suppliers: around a quarter of organic apples in Europe come from here.

Perfectly informs

It can be said that all the cheeses South Tyrolean quality standards are exceptionally high: artisanal production, non genetically modified and controlled feed and fodder, the natural breeding techniques and strict controls on milking and processing milk are the secrets of this success. Among the protagonists of the tableau de fromage South Tyrolean figure, no doubt, it Stelvio PDO, the only South Tyrolean cheese to have received the European Union Protected Designation of Origin. A historic product of the province (it has been talked about for at least a century), it is a cheese made from fresh cow's milk from 300 alpine farms, almost all located at over 1,000 meters above sea level. The maturing of the forms takes place on fir wood boards and lasts 62 days, during which the cheese is constantly massaged with salt water. To this brine are added autochthonous microorganisms that further strengthen the character of the cheese. Only in this way the Stelvio PDO can have its typical crust and its unique taste. That's not all, of course: the Stelvio is produced without the use of genetically modified organisms, a condition that also applies to the rennet needed for protein coagulation.

Enrico Saravalle
June 2019


The garden of taste by Emanuele Donalisio – Italian Cuisine


He shows less than his years and does motocross with a bit of unconsciousness, but when he enters the kitchen Emanuele Donalisio appropriates its 33 springs and a wisdom you would not expect. His curriculum, however, explains everything: from Turin, he started working with the "big" at 16 when, still a student at the hotel management Pinerolo, was chosen as a collaborator by the Maison Flipot steakhouse, and then moved, by newly-appointed, to Michel Roux, in London. Leave the stars, set sail on cruise ships, continuing to develop essential experiences.

"On board, get acquainted with all the kitchens and ingredients in the world: from the Baltic to the Caribbean," he assures. But it's just a coincidence, he says, if five years later, he found himself managing a restaurant in Ventimiglia, right there, in a city that acts as a link between his Piedmont and the sea in which he sailed, between Italy and the France of haute cuisine, among the Mediterranean products and the exotic cultivations in which the province is specialized. "My greengrocer is fundamental: I owe him the nasturtium that I brought you," he says as he answers incoming calls from various market stalls. "Ventimiglia means red prawns, much fish, but also mangoes, avocados and papayas better than in the countries of origin".

And the meat? "I am Piedmontese, I love cooking it, but I also pair it with fish, a bit like in the American Surf & Turf kitchen". From the medallion of beef with lobster, to the mullet with fois gras, to the tongue with the prawns, originality marries quality. "Based on the availability of the day, I invent new dishes, just give me carte blanche!"

Having joined the Jre family in 2016, at the first attempt, Emanuele Donalisio is under the lens of the prestigious Michelin who awarded him a plate and two forks. He also spoke about him New York Times, thanks to the unexpected visit of Pulitzer prize journalist Eric Lipton.

As a member of the JREs he was chosen for two consecutive years as a chef for the Vinitaly welcome lunch. For the occasion, he delighted guests with a soup of baby octopus in Rossese di Dolceacqua, infusion of pepper and crispy polenta.

176461The garden of taste, in Ventimiglia (Piazza XX Settembre 6, tel. 0184 355244), is open for lunch and dinner from Wednesday to Sunday. Emanuele Donalisio offers three tasting menus to customers who are there (only 18): Signature Jre, dedicated to the association and more sophisticated; The neighbor's vegetable garden, all vegetarian, with the many excellences of the imperiese and LiberaMente, the largest, with 12 courses suggested by the market and the chef's imagination.


Fish, nasturtium and melon sashimi

for 6 people

a bream of about 1.2 kg – 50 g of untreated nasturtium flowers – nasturtium seeds – 100 g of untreated nasturtium leaves – 1 netted melon – 1 lemon – 1 lime – 100 ml Curaçao – 100 g of sugar muscovado – 50 ml of dressing with sweet-and-sour Trebbiano vinegar – xanthan – extra virgin olive oil – Maldon salt – pepper

Prepare the fishand Cut 4 fillets from the fish and cut them so as to obtain a total of 12 rectangular pieces, remove them from any thorns, trim them and season them with oil, lemon and lime, then place them in the fridge covered.

Melon and sauces prepared Cut the melon, remove the seeds and, using a digger, remove 20-25 balls. Sprinkle with Curaçao and leave to marinate. Collect the melon pulp left in the mixer, add half of the nasturtium leaves and flower petals. Operate the appliance until a homogeneous sauce is obtained, add a pinch of salt and a tip of xanthan if it is necessary to thicken, a tablespoon of water if it is necessary to lengthen it; put aside. Prepare another sauce by blending the remaining leaves and petals (except for a few leaves and flower for garnish), a pinch of salt, a drizzle of oil, a tablespoon of muscovado sugar and half a tablespoon of sweet and sour Trebbiano vinegar.

Complete the dish Take back the portions of sea bream and make many vertical incisions at a distance of about 3 mm from one another without ever reaching the bottom. Arrange them on a steel tray and, with the aid of a torch, gently flame the surface. Place two portions of sea bream on each plate and grate on each 1 or 2 fresh nasturtium seeds.
Sprinkle the nasturtium leaves kept aside with the remaining bitter-sweet Trebbiano vinegar dressing, add salt and place them around the fish. Complete with the flowers, the melon balls, drained, and the two sauces.

THE VARNISHING Place the fish on the cutting board with the tail towards you and the abdomen down; cut the back deeply along the bone and remove the fillet. Put it on the cutting board, penetrate between the skin and the pulp with the knife and separate them.

by Daniela Falsitta,
photo by Michele Tabozzi
video by Diego Stadiotti

on Sale & Pepe in July 2019

EatPrato: the weekend of taste – Italian Cuisine

EatPrato: the weekend of taste

The three days dedicated to taste, pastry and traditional products to young emerging chefs are back. In Prato from 31 May to 2 June, the weekend becomes an open-air kitchen.

From May 31st to June 2nd the biggest urban kitchen will be in Prato! Three days for gourmet party enthusiasts that mix wisdom, creativity and a pinch of daring.
The city of the sweet heart is not in fact a slogan: there are more than 60 master pastry chefs and chocolatiers in Prato, and twice a year these professionals join chefs and local producers for a great kermesse dedicated to cooking: Eat Prato.

The food court at Giardino Buonamici

Giardino Buonamici, in the square of the same name, is the headquarters of tastings, show cooking, pastry shows, wine tasting, masterclasses, mixology show drinks, workshops and live demonstrations. Without forgetting the music, the meetings, the books. 1000 square meters in the heart of the city a stone's throw from the medieval walls, the cathedral, one of the most fascinating Renaissance fresco cycles. A Food Court where you can share an experience and stories and from there discover the foodie city that combines good taste with good humor.

The edition dedicated to Leonardo

"Genius and Madness, beyond tradition". This is the claim that will accompany the fourth edition of eatPRATO, which is not just a tribute to Leonardo this year. The city that has in its territory the oldest DOC in the world (DOCG since 1990), the Carmignano, knows that among the subjects that have fascinated the Renaissance genius there was also wine, so much so that it even dedicated some studies to its production, especially after having received a vineyard from Ludovico il Moro. And then there is Leonardo Cuoco! Ca va sans dire, brilliant even in the kitchen! So much to write recipes far ahead for his time. We would call it avant-garde cuisine today.

The night of Prato's taste: bars and restaurants in the historic center present original gastronomic proposals to be savored. An itinerary through the streets of the center between art, taste, design, videographic on the Piazza del Comune when at sunset the Festival starts on the terrace of Palazzo Pretorio, lights up at dusk with a show of graphic animations, "I Sentieri del Gusto "Made of lights and sounds to cover the façade of the Pretorio with videomapping and continues in the square with an aperitif at the Caffè delle Logge branching then along the streets around where it will be possible to make small tastings in many different spaces, sip a glass of wine, eat one “Schiaccino”, delight in piazza delle Carceri with a sweet rose of city sweet par excellence signed by the best Prato pastry chefs.

The "Outside" salon
The OUTSIDE Buonamici Garden continues also in the following days with the Walks of Taste, itineraries on an urban scale and on the territory that will reveal a surprising Prato told and discovered through tourist itineraries in the most unusual places of the city and surroundings, through stories and theatrical, real and own performances made of anecdotes, stories, characters. Mini-tours organized to introduce the people of Prato to excellence and to bring the public to the discovery of particular and almost hidden places, where tastings are intertwined with performances, flavors with words. Do not miss the event on Sunday June 2 in the event just outside the historic center, at CHI-NA al Macrolotto, WINEZILLA Jr, a cross-section of natural wines and gourmet cuisine told and guided by Sandro Sangiorgi, a well-known fine wine writer food and wine that will take the public from oenology to literature and vice versa.

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