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A recent study foresees the end of the black truffle market – Italian Cuisine


A recently published study foresees the end of the European black truffle industry by 2071. Cause? Climate change

In the last year, fans of black truffle they will certainly have enjoyed theexceptional decline in prices registered in Italy of this fine ingredient. An analysis of Coldiretti has indeed highlighted that in 2018, due to bad weather, the harvest was exceptionally abundant, giving consumers a consequent drop in costs with relative travel to purchases. For truffle lovers, therefore, the results of a research carried out by the Scottish University of Stirling arrive as a bolt from the blue. the production of black truffles in Europe is about to disappear completely by 2100 due to climate change.

Last decades of production of the black truffle

This report, entitled A risk assessment of the European black truffle sector under predicted climate changes, published at the end of 2018 in the journal "Science of the Total Environment", is the result of a study conducted by a team of researchers, based on the observation of 36 years of production of the black truffle in Italy, Spain and France. The team then compared the data collected with those concerning the weather conditions of this period, and with those planned for the next years. What emerged is that climate change in progress, the gradual increase in temperatures and the dry climate will be a significant obstacle to black truffles, causing decrease between 78 and 100% of European truffle production between 2071 and 2100. This process could even be accelerated by any other factors that may arise, such as droughts, heat waves, forest fires, parasites.
In short, really dramatic forecasts that will lead to a price increase of the black truffle; the value of the world market, which is currently hundreds of millions of euros, could in fact grow to 5 billion euros over the next two decades.

Black truffle.

Goodbye to the delicious and precious black truffle

This underground fungus, which needs specific climatic factors, a favorable moist soil and that is cultivated mostly in nature, will become an increasingly rare and precious good, until the inevitable disappearance. Beyond thesocio-economic impact of the expected decline, it is also the world of catering to make the expenses. This delicious ingredient is in fact loved by chefs all over the world and rooted in the history and culinary traditions of different countries. In Italy, if we talk about black truffles, we can not help but think of some traditional recipes Which tagliolini with black truffles, risotto with truffles or fried eggs with truffles.

In short, as the chief researcher Paul Thomas and his team explained, if we want to save this ingredient from our tables, all we have to do is to safeguard the environment, while it is up to the experts to proceed with the necessary conservation and protection initiatives of this species, considering, for example, the expansion of truffle plantations in new territories with a more favorable future climate.

Photo: Tuber_macrosporum_Tartufo nero_Wikipedia_Nicolò Oppicelli.jpg

Mercello Trentini: travel, study, experiences and a great deal of freedom – Italian Cuisine


It's not often that you meet a chef with rasta pigtails on his head and Bermuda shorts under his uniform. But the Turin Marcello Trentini, often known as Magorabin (from the name of his local), could not be that way. You understand it when its loose talk brings you over the years of an irreverent and light-hearted youth or among the thousand experiences lived in kitchens all over the world without ever taking itself too seriously. So much so that, if you did not have that developed and stubborn pellet for the culinary art, you could imagine it, instead of driving a starred restaurant, in some New Age Indian community. And you would be wrong, because under the whimsical and anarchic nature of Magorabin there is something else.

166848He tried this by opening a room with his own strength, together with his wife Simona, when he was just over 30 years old. There he planned to propose simple, well-cooked dishes first and then, gradually, to introduce increasingly original, interesting and complex proposals. Like the duck from the Marengo that he cooked for us: completely inspired by the famous chicken of Napoleon's chef, he knows how to combine the Piedmontese ability to bring together ingredients that are apparently incompatible with French and international haute cuisine techniques.

Said and done, the determination led him exactly where he wanted to go, that is to run only his creations and to conquer in a few years the major guides, the highly coveted qualification of JRE and finally the Michelin star. "Stuff that makes you shake your wrists", he says with the usual impetuousness of a former student with little model that today fascinates the auditorium of the hotel of Stresa with brilliant lessons on improvisation and re-use. "But certainly not enough to make me stop wanting the second".

166851The Magorabin restaurant in corso San Maurizio 61, in Turin. A few weeks ago the restaurant was "doubled" from 120 200 square meters, while the seats, that they were about twenty, they became 40. Among the interesting news, also the presence of a "Social Table" where 8 people at a time, even without knowing each other, can taste a special menu designed specifically for them.

He became a member of the Jeunes restaurateurs in 2008, at the age of 37, today Trentini fulfills the task with satisfaction of their vice president. And speaking of this association confesses: "A few years later I won the Michelin star, but being admitted among the JRE was the most exciting recognition of my career. At that precise moment I felt I was starting to play in the championship of the great ".

texts by Daniela Falsitta
video (below) Diego Stadiotti
on Sale & Pepe magazine
October 2018