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Carnival and the pancakes found on the new Sale & Pepe – Italian Cuisine

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Less known but equally delicious: they are the Carnival pancakes "forget" (or, better said, found again), those that are prepared in small towns and that are handed down from one generation to the next. They have curious names like Caleno glove (to which we have dedicated our cover), Cannariculi or Orillettas and they have unusual shapes, sometimes spectacular, and little stories that have brought them down to us from distant times. We looked for them around Italy, collecting traditions and sifting through old cookbooks, to tell about a Carnival that is perhaps more intimate (as perhaps ours will still be) and less noble, but at least equally heartfelt and undoubtedly greedy. It is impossible to list all the fried gluttons of the Italian Carnival. Try the ones we have chosen for you.

The power of seeds
Still on the subject of rediscoveries, we went to find the virtue of seeds from sesame, linen, pumpkin, sunflower, poppy and many others. Origin of plant life, they already contain all its complexity and strength and give life to nutritious and healthy dishes. Which open to creativity, like a spicy pesto with coriander, pumpkin and sunflower seeds and sour cream or chicken wings in a sesame crust.

195261Noodles and cod
Rice, sweet potatoes, green tea, he also loves wheat and soy … the delicious strips of pasta that come from the East have many flavors and colors and are suitable for different recipes, dry and in broth. As far away from our traditions as they are appreciated by our palates. And then, another (re) discovery: the salted cod who, abandoning the popular clothes, wears new elegant and contemporary clothes.

Taste destinations
We have been to Florence, among the historic shops, which, alongside the traditional tourist one, draw a path to discover timeless shop windows, full of taste and craftsmanship. In Puglia we went to discover the restaurant of Vinod Sookar, Mauritian chef transplanted to Valle d'Itria, with a traditional cuisine with an exotic soul. In Valtellina, then, we evaluated the “heroic” viticulture, which interprets the Nebbiolo grape in different reds.

Traditional sweets
There panna cotta has a history that dates back to the eighteenth century, blossoms in the Piedmont sabuado of the nineteenth century, is codified as a recipe in the sixties and continues to depopulate in home cooking and in trattorias. And then there is the tiramisu, an internationally renowned spoon dessert, so much so that it deserves an academy and its acolytes: guests in our kitchen Tiziano Taffarello, founder of the Academy dedicated to the iconic dessert, supports its Treviso origin, documents in hand and Anna Maria Pellegrino, cook and food writer has prepared for us the traditional version and a rediscovery.

February 2022

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Mortara goose salami – Sale & Pepe – Italian Cuisine

Mortara goose salami - Sale & Pepe

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Mortara (PV) goose salami comes from the encounter between two cultures: the peasant traditions of Lomellina with those of Jewish community which settled in the Mortara area at the end of the fifteenth century. It was Ludovico Sforza, called il Moro, to allow Jews fleeing from Eastern Europe to settle in these lands of water and rice, where the presence of geese was numerous since the Middle Ages.

Geese: the Lomellina pig
Easy to raise (they are practically omnivorous), for a very poor economy they were a real resource, from which everything could be obtained, such as from pigs: feathers for stuffing, pens for writing but above all fat and fresh or preserved meat for table. A gastronomic tradition in which the Jewish community, which he did not eat pork for religious reasons, was integrated at best: the consumption of goose intensified and the butchers began to prepare cold cuts and greaves for newcomers.

Mortara salami PGI
The first products were completely devoid of pork, which was then added over time up to the Mortara salami we know today: cooked and stuffed in goosebumps, in the shape of a neck or tubular, it is made of mixed meats (a third goose, one third of lean pork pulp and one third of fat parts of pork), flavored with salt, pepper and natural flavors. Marked byIgp, is made according to the traditional recipe even by producers who do not adhere to the consortium and is celebrated every year by Festival that takes place at the end of September, with the historical procession in Renaissance costumes of the times of the Sforza and the Palio between the districts.

100% goose or Ecumenical salami
In addition to the IGP salami, there is that of pure goose, today called "ecumenical" or "of peace" because it can be consumed by all three monotheistic religions. It is included in the list of Traditional Agri-food Products (PAT) of Lombardy and among those ofSlow Food Ark of Taste. It is a raw salami, made with lean meats and goose lard, tanned with salt, spices and natural flavors; stuffed into the skin of the neck, it is aged for 3-5 months and has a strong flavor. "To make a salami weighing about 1.5 kg, you need a whole goose: this is why it is a prized salami (it costs about twice as much as cooked) but not very common", he explains. Davide Gallina of the farm L'oca di Sant'Albino. As in all of Lomellina, here the palmiped reigns supreme: raised outdoors, respecting animal welfare, it is fed only with company grains.

The other goose products
The lean meat of the goose also produces bresaola, salamelle, cacciatorini, prosciuttini, paté and more. "The cooked salami is pink, has a delicate aroma and a soft consistency (the slice tends to fall apart); the flavor is soft and sweet, with spicy notes", adds Davide Gallina. "It is consumed like cold appetizer or, heated in a water bath for 15 minutes, such as second dish, paired with mashed potatoes or chickpeas with potatoes. It is also used for white sauce, sautéed with oil, wine and rosemary, excellent for first courses ", concludes Gallina.

Goose salami in the kitchen
Salami is also ideal in risotto, also combined with cheese and, among the newest ideas, it is proposed in Japanese uramaki (rice rolls with raw fish or other) from Nicolino gastronomy of Mortara. Small companies The production of Mortara goose salami is not very widespread, limited to Lomellina and the lower Novara area: it is entrusted to family businesses, which sell in internal outlets, in local shops or in farmers' markets. Consumption is concentrated above all during the festival period and at Christmas. Other suitable areas are Friuli and Veneto.

January 2021
Marina Cella

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Video Pan Brioche – Sale & Pepe – Italian Cuisine

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Posted on 07/01/2022

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