Claudio Ceroni: I have always done things that didn’t exist before, the last but also the most important founding Identità Golose with Paolo Marchi.
2. What does kitchen disobedience mean?
PM: Close the books and be yourself.
CC: Simple: innovate. Breaking the mold.
3. If tradition works well (it has within it the seeds of self-regeneration), does it make sense to disobey?
PM: If it weren’t like this, the world would stop. He was more important than many Icarus fearful little men.
CC: Tradition is successful innovation, this has become a cliché, but it is also the truth. Disobedience as an end in itself makes no sense, but only if it has within itself the positive seed of creating something new that is destined to remain.
4. The Futurists from the pages of The Italian kitchen they denied pasta, a disobedience that made little sense, a pure provocation. What would you never disobey?
PM: In being myself.
CC: Disobedience should not be confused with rebellion as an end in itself. Not all disobedient people are innovators and not all innovators are disobedient. I would never disobey the duty to give credit for success to the work of all those who helped me achieve it.
5. Sensible disobedience, that is, based on knowledge of the past, awareness of the present and future vision, becomes tradition: The Italian kitchen with its 95 years of life it is an emblem of this. Do you have any anecdotes or personal memories regarding our magazine and its being “sensibly obedient/disobedient”?
PM: Thirty years ago I wrote an article about The newspaper dedicated to bear radicchio, a spontaneous salad that grows in the Adamello Brenta park. Once I left, someone from the management let me know that its collection was prohibited. I asked why The Italian kitchen had written tons of it without any problems and I was told: «Be up The Italian kitchen it is an honor”. I understood that as authority varies, any bans also vary.
CC: Mine is not a memory but the awareness that the present of The Italian kitchen it is the best proof of how a great renewal can arise from a fruitful history. Thank you!
All of us in the editorial team of The Italian kitchen we will be present in our stand during the days of the congress. We are waiting for you to browse the pages of our history together.
Allianz MiCo, via Gattamelata – Gate 14 – Milan. identitagolose.it
A tour to discover the markets of Vienna, including typical products, international specialties and trendy places to stop and eat
Cultured, elegant, austere. Vienna, city of composers, philosophers and artists. Cradle of Central European culture, for centuries the operational center of one of the most important royal families of the Old Continent, the Habsburgs. Famous, gastronomically speaking, for her kaffeehaus, the Sacher cake and the Wiener Schnitzel (the Viennese cutlet). Crossroads of peoples, a bridge between the West and the East. Being sucked into history is a moment, with the risk of losing it daily dimension of a more dynamic and multi-faceted city than one might imagine. To touch with hand its cosmopolitan side and to savor its present, the advice is to take a tour – between a visit to the Hofburg and one to the Belvedere Museum – among the markets in Vienna, in particular four: Naschmarkt, Brunnenmarkt, Karmelitermarkt and Kutschkermarkt.
Naschmarkt: central, multi-ethnic, an open-air restaurant
In the center, not far from the Wiener Staatsoper (OperaHouse) and a few steps from Palace of the Secession, there is the Naschmarkt. Born as a multi-ethnic market, today it certainly is one of the tourist attractions of the city. Scent of spices and sweets with a Middle Eastern flavor, fine French cheeses and Italian-made excellences, exotic fruit and fresh vegetables: on the benches is much more than indispensable. Also the signs speak different languages: German, Turkish, some Arabic and, obviously, Italian. Some stalls, in the evening, change clothes and turn into wine bar, like theUrbanek, a delicatessen shop, above all cold cuts and cheeses, served at the time ofappetizer with excellent Austrian wines. Among the kiosks they sell bratwurst and cheap beer, a series of have crept in trendy clubs, which turned the market into a big one open-air restaurant. To the Neni Israeli-Oriental dishes are served.Orient & Occident Turkish homemade specialties; for fish lovers there is Umar. Moreover, every Saturday from 6.30 am to 2.00 pm there is also a very colorful flea market (Wienzeile; Monday to Friday 6.00 am – 7.30 pm, Saturday 6.00 am – 6.00 pm).
The markets of Vienna.
Karmelitermarkt, farmer's market in a trendy neighborhood
Beyond the Donaukanal, the canal that cuts the city in two, at Leopoldgasse there is another fine market, the Karmelitermarkt, in the suburb of Karmeliterviertel, once inhabited mainly by the Jewish community today lively trendy neighborhood. Perhaps still little known, although it has been in the current square since 1910, in recent years it has become a reference place both from the point of view culinary that cultural. Even this, like many other markets in Vienna, has fixed stalls – small masonry buildings – and larger spaces equipped for street vendors, which are mainly here farmers. Since 2008 there is also a corner of Slow Food Wien. Every Saturday from 8 to 13 producers meet and offer traditional homemade food: bread, honey, jams, pickles, sauces, meats and cheeses. Many clubs around the market: for one healthy lunch break there is Kaas am Markt, a delicatessen shop and organic products, where you can also make small snacks. Another place to try is Schöne Perle, in the adjacent Leopoldgasse, which offers a reinterpretation of classic Viennese cuisine. And for those who just can't live without it Pizza Mari ’, a Neapolitan pizzeria very popular in the city (Leopoldsgasse;Monday to Friday 6.00 am – 7.30 pm, Saturday 6.00 am – 5.00 pm | Food stands from Monday to Saturday 6.00-23.00).
Brunnenmarkt: one of the most bazaar-like markets in Vienna
The Brunnenmarkt, in the Otkring, 16th district, is the largest street market in Vienna. It develops around Yppenplatz, which houses the structure of the old covered market, today transformed into a cultural center for the performing arts, the Brunnenpassage. The square is full of places to stop for lunch, after a dive in what it easily remembers the bazaar of a Turkish city. Taking Brunnengasse, you are literally sucked in by about 170 benches arranged along the road, made even closer by the crowd that populates it. On the stalls they are found above all cheap seasonal fruits and vegetables – lots of potatoes, onions, onions and turnips of all sorts – but also cheeses from all over Europe, cured meats from the Alps, cuts of halal meat and fish. Many kiosks with spicy kebab skewers to take take away and Turkish sweets overflowing with honey. In one there is also an oven from which gods come out smoking disks of Arabic bread. On the back of the square, on Saturdays, there is also the farmer's market, with a more restricted offer of local products, 90% organic: mushrooms, apples, honey, mountain cheeses. Among the cafés that populate the area, a must is the place Staud’s Pavillon, where jams and vegetable specialties have been sold since 1947. They are also worth a visitMani, which proposes a modern interpretation of Middle Eastern cuisine and Völlerei, a modern trattoria offering slightly revisited classic Austrian cuisine dishes, all accompanied by excellent beers (Monday to Friday 6.00 am – 7.30 pm, Saturday 6.00 am – 5.00 pm).
Kutschkermarkt, refined products in a neighborhood market
Outside the usual sightseeing tours, the Kutschkermarkt is located in the 18th district, a mostly residential area, where many young families with children live. The market is the last on the road together with the Brunnenmarkt. The road on which it develops is uphill and, between one bank and another, there are several roomswell cared for where to stop for a bite. The advice is to go there on Saturday when, in addition to the fixed sellers, there are also the farmers' desks with their delicacies: fresh eggs, organic fruit and vegetables, jams, but also wine and sausages. The stalls are all well kept, some with a modern design and many can both buy and eat.Among these the most famous is the Pöhl’s Cellars, the wine bar of Irene Pöhl, a pioneer of the Kutschkermarkt, which also faces a counter of cheeses and cold cuts, one taste boutique where to stock up on typical products to bring back home as a souvenir. Between the benches, sometimes there is also that of new star of the Austrian bakery, Georg Öfferl, of the Dampfbäckerei Öfferl oven, known for its bread with steamed dough, defined as one of the best in the city (Kutschkergasse; Monday to Friday, 6.00 am – 7.30 pm, Saturday 6.00 am – 5.00 pm | Farmer’s Market 7.00-14.00).
Birth and history of broccoli, the vegetable with extraordinary beneficial properties: from the invention of the ancient Romans to the spread in Europe, up to the landing in America
In the very wide variety of vegetables "made in Italy", one particularly worthy of interest because of his valuable nutritional properties and the broccoli, or the cabbage variety notoriously little loved by children. This vegetable, a real cure-all for our health, is now widespread in most of Europe and the world, but few know that it originated in southern Italy. Let's go then to discover the main stages in the history of broccoli, starting from the Etruscans and the ancient Romans and arriving until the landing in the United States.
Broccoli, the vegetable loved by the Etruscans and ancient Romans
The cabbage family, to which the broccoli belongs, he was much loved by theEtruscans, who appreciated both the taste and the beneficial properties. This ancient civilization of skilled navigators was in fact devoted to cultivation and it is thanks to the Etruscans and their famous Mediterranean trade that the cabbage also reached the Phoenicians, the ancient Greeks and the populations of the current islands of Sicily, Sardinia and Corsica. Big cabbage lovers were also the ancient Romans, so much so that the famous naturalist Pliny the Elder, between the years 23 and 79 AD, wrote about how this civilization used to cultivate and cook them. It is to them that the merit of the creation of the first variety of broccoli, called Calabrian broccoli, as well as the etymology of the term that derives from the Latin brachium, ie arm, branch or sprout. It is said that the Romans used to boil broccoli along with a mixture of spices, onion, wine and oil (as evidenced in the cookbooks of the Apicius gastronomist) or serve them accompanied to creamy sauces prepared with aromatic herbs or wine, as it is said that they used to eat them raw before banquets to ensure that the body absorbed alcohol better.
The sapling-shaped superfood that has conquered the world
There broccoli spread outside the Italian territory he began in 1533, when Caterina de ’Medici married Henry II and introduced this precious vegetable into the French court, of which at the time were also part of Italian chefs. After France it was the turn of theEngland, where the broccoli were nicknamed Italian asparagus, as mentioned in the 1724 edition of Gardener's Dictionary by Miller. In both countries, broccoli became popular with the passage of time, but the initial reception was not the best, also due to the unpleasant smell of sulfur emanating during cooking. In 1922 two immigrants from Messina brought broccoli seeds to California, giving rise to the first plantation in the city of San Jose, and then contributed to their distribution also in other cities. In the United States, unlike European countries, these vegetables established themselves rapidly and successfully, and already in the 30s their popularity was consolidated.
Around the world in the last thirty years, thanks to new cooking methods and new discoveries on health benefits, including antioxidant properties that help prevent some forms of cancer, the consumption of broccoli has tripled. The most known and loved varieties are the Calabrese, rosette-shaped, and the Romanesco broccoli, known for its pyramidal shape with many small spiral rosettes.
Photo: broccoli_Pixabay.jpg Photo: history of broccoli_churl_Flickr.jpg
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